88pathoffroad

Might be the headlight switch, but if you recently did the trailer wiring, I'd check that first. Can you unplug the wiring you installed without a hassle or is it spliced in?

Hey now, I'm a cat guy. Leave 'em alone!

Dead alternator. If you had an automatic the A/T Temp light would be on too. Have it tested before it leaves you stranded on the side of the road.

I don't think so, no.

WD21's don't have rack and pinion steering. He likely bent a tie rod and/or the idler arm and/or the centerlink joints. Could also be something else entirely different. What happened before the lights quit working? Did you smash any corner lights or the front end?

I think you may have hydrolocked the engine by spraying half a can of cleaner into it. Hopefully you didn't bend any rods...try pulling the plugs and THEN cranking it.

This sounds like a sensor problem to me. I've had problems with other cars not wanting to run right when you press on the gas pedal...it'd stumble badly, try to die, not rev up, but it'd idle fine. It turned out to be the MAF sensor and the TPS BOTH. I'd check the wiring plugs and pull the MAF sensor to make sure the little elements on it are intact and clean. Adjusting the TPS is easy, too. I can post a pic of the FSM on how to do that but it takes a voltmeter...

Actively dripping or just looks slightly wet underneath? When you pull the plug to check fluid level it'll probably dribble a little and leave behind wetness.

Mine is an auto and when it was new, it did tend to stick locked. A few turns around a concrete parking lot broke it loose, be prepared for a scary noise when it does.

1/2" drive extension works fine. Pull the fill plug first to make sure it'll come out, then pull the drain plug. Refill with whatever came out...some have ATF, some have gear oil, it's really up to you what you want to put back in, both types will work OK. I suggest synthetic to reduce drivetrain friction.

87-92's didn't have a remote AFAIK. I have the alarm manual already scanned...I found a copy of it in the junkyard one day and brought it home. http://nissan.damagedreality.com/vssmanual...anVSSmanual.zip

Do you have an external tranny cooler on it yet? You NEED one. Don't use the stock cooler.

Mine did that too the first time I changed it. Ugh. Took a while and a lot of prying but it eventually came off. I think there's a brass sleeve inside that seems to like to adhere to the distributor shaft. Just don't twist too hard, you don't want to strip the distributor shaft or gear at the bottom somehow.

The amount of gas produced by such a small apparatus is negligible at best. I can't possibly see how it would benefit a car engine that consumes thousands of times more air per revolution than the hydrogen cell can possibly ever produce. Aside from that, there has been ZERO testing and ZERO proof from anyone that this works. Just a lot of websites monopolizing on fuel prices and people's wish to save cash by investing in crackpot schemes purported to work. If you do try it and it seems to produce some sort of effect, let us know!

On a 2-door, fronts should be 5.5-6" and rears are 6x9's. It's not that hard to swap them out.

Auto climate control in a 2-door? Where?!?

If there's a crush washer for the pinion it could be as high as 200 ft-lbs. It is on some old GM diffs. Takes two or three guys to put it together.

IIRC there's a hazard flasher and a separate flasher for turn signals.

Turbo V6 Z31, rear diff R200A. Yes.

Nope, those are the SS Edition models with the VLSD.

V6, turbo, 4/86-6/89 IIRC. The VLSD will not work.

I hate to say it, but there is no vacuum diagram for either engine in my whole FSM. There's a diagram showing where all the emissions control parts go but no routing diagram. My Chilton's doesn't show it either. Honest to God, I just leafed through every section even remotely pertaining to engines.

That's around 15 MPG...it's rated at 15 city, 18 highway to begin with...

3 5/8 quarts it is, from 87-95.

Engine water suction tube, that's a new one on me. What part is that, precisely?