ahardb0dy

I keep a metal one attached to an extra valve stem, makes it easier to grab when you need to use it, also makes it harder to misplace. I also have the valve stem removal tool in my toolbox.

I'm sure it was a repeat, but on TRUCKS this weekend they did a feature on shock tuning with Bilstein on site and they were saying that tuning the shocks for high speed driving works very well when rock crawling. They showed the truck with cameras on the chassis before and after the shock tuning, made a big difference. I guess anyone, for a fee (large I would guess) can have Bilstein tune their shocks.

Looks good !! with the edges of the butterfly clean it should idle better when the butterfly is completely closed. When I removed the TB on the Q45 we used to have it was as bad as that on the front and back and inside the plenum, I also found the EGR port completely clogged.

get some of those chrome ambulance type vents

replaced the O2 sensor

Replaced my O2 sensor today and noticed a couple of things, first it has the Nissan logo on it so I guess that means it was made by Nissan and secondly it says Bosch on it. I wouldn't doubt it is the original part knowing how my buddy is with doing maintenance on his vehicles. Does anone know if the original part was made by Bosch or perhaps this was a OEM part bought thru the parts dept? some pics below: thanks

My PF is an automatic but I run Amsoil in my sentra and it works for me

Only thing I have in my toolbox that isn't really a tool, not feminn, would be tooth brushes, they have all kinds of uses, I usually use them after waxing (cars) to get the wax out of emblems and stuff.

Ok, I will be replacing my trans filter and fluid soon and have a question. If you pull the tranny lines from the cooler and run the engine for a few seconds to pump out the fluid do you do this before draining the pan? And if so would it be ok to use some cheap fluid to add to the tranny while doing this to flow more fluid out? Than drop the pan and replace the filter and than refill?

So is the new plug from the company you linked to? or do you get it from the TPS from the junkyard and splice in the wires?

have not done it yet, but needed to order some parts for my sentra from rockauto so figured I would get some parts for the pathfinder, I have a O2 sensor and tranny filter coming. Hopefully mileage will go up a little with a new O2 sensor installed and after changing the trans filter and filling with new fluid maybe trans will shift better from 1-2.

Just want to share what happened today on my sentra, I'm posting this because the pathfinder also has this valve. I was in the process of flushing my radiator and engine and when I started the engine the idle would not drop so I checked the codes. I got a code 25, AAC valve, per the FSM to troubleshoot it said to unplug the harness going to the AAC valve and check the ohms at the 2 pins, which I did and they were ok, than it said to turn the key to "on" and check for battery voltage at the harness connector and I had 1 volt less than battery voltage, the thing about this is when I turned the key to "on" I could hear a buzzing under the hood and I traced it to the AAC valve. I removed the AAC valve and checked to see if the little pluger was moving when I connected and removed the plug it did not, I than connected the AAC valve to my power supply in my shed and the AAC valve worked perfectly, I thought it might be working on the power supply because it was putting out more voltage but I checked the AAC valve's operation at voltage as low as 8 volts and with the amps on my power supply turned all the way down and it still worked. I re-connected it to the harness in the car and it still did not work correctly. Long story cut short it turned out the ground in the harness connector was bad, I exposed the ground wire and using a terminal tap connector ran a new ground from the wire to the firewall and it worked correctly. As I said just wanted to share what I found in case anyone else runs into this.

this was mine when I bought the PF and after paint: after:

My 94 PF was doing the start some time just clicking sometime thing and after doing the starter relay mod it started everytime for about a year, than finally I had to replace the starter, but I did leave the relay in place.

here are the contact numbers on a basic 4 terminal relay and what each wire goes to, this applies to what ever you may use a relay for, ex. lights, fans, starter relay mod, etc. numbers on botom of relay next to tabs: 30 - is always the 12 volt power supply coming into the relay, (ALWAYS PUT A FUSE INLINE WITH THIS WIRE) 87 - is the output of the relay when the relay is "triggered" 86 - "trigger", this wire connects to what ever is turning the relay on, 85 - goes to ground so for the starter relay mod it goes like this: 1. - mount the relay as close to the battery as possible 2. - I usually will attach a short wire from terminal number "85" with a ring terminal on one end and loop it back up to the relay mounting screw, this is your ground 3. -take the stock starter solenoid wire out of the starter solenoid plug and attach it to terminal number "86" on the relay, this activates the relay when you go to start the engine 4. - run a new wire from terminal number "87" down to the starter solenoid plug, this lets the output of the relay engage the solenoid when you start the engine 5. - run a wire with a fuse inline from terminal number "30" to the positive on the battery, this is the relay power supply that's it here is a diagram for wiring a pair of auxillary lights using the high beams to turn them on using a relay, this schematic can be followed for most everything relay related, just substitute the lights for what ever you wish to control with the relay and substitute a switch for the high beam wire: I would not recommend wiring the 2 lights as the diagram shows with 2 wires coming off terminal number "87", instead run wire from terminal number "87" to the light furthest away, than using a "scotchlok" connector attach the second light to the wire that runs to the furthest light. NOTE !!!! when using a relay to control lights or anything you wish to turn on using a switch, the switch that you use to turn the relay on can be very small and only needs to be rated to handle a few amps as the current to turn the relay on is very small. This is one benefit to using relays, with out a relay you would normally run a wire from your battery inside the cab to a heavy duty switch that is rated for whatever the load is you are controlling, (for example for 2 off road lights a 20-30 amp switch would be common), than a wire would run from the switch in the cab back out to what ever you are turning on with the switch, ex. lights,fan,etc. This wastes power, Using a relay the power runs a short distance from the battery to the relay than when the relay is activated the power goes from the relay out to what ever you are controlling with it, ex. lights, fan,etc, and the wire from the switch is very low current to activate the relay. ========================================================================================================================= You may also find relays from the auto part stores with 5 terminals, these are the same as the above 4 terminal relay with the addition of a terminal numbered "87A" this type of relay is known as a "changeover" relay, basically how it works is, when the relay is off terminal number "87A" has power and when you trigger the relay (turn it on), terminal number "87" has power and terminal number "87A" does not. These are used when you want to switch between two items, like for example a high/low on a fan among other uses

For newer Nissan vehicles starting at the 2001 model year check out this site: http://nissanhelp.com/index.php move your mouse pointer over where it says "models", than click on "all models all years", select the year you want to see, than the model. For Infiniti vehicles go to : http://infinitihelp.com/index.php same instructions as above To find out what your Pathfinder (or any other Nissan vehicle) came with when new, you can send the Vin number to me or anyone that has the Nissan FAST program and the Vin number can be decoded to show all original specs including what option package the vehicle came with.

If you haven't done it already I would replace every vacuum line you can see, even if the rubber looks good over time the ends where the hose slips over the plastic/metal nipples will start to crack, a couple of cracks in a few hoses say on the bottom that are not easily seen can add up and cause problems. I would pick up what ever diameter hose that is used on the engine and replace one at a time with new, the hose is pretty cheap and as long as you do one at a time it is easy to do. Have you cleaned the butterfly in the throttle body lately/at all? if not I would clean it as well, the throttle body butterfly when the throttle is closed is designed to let a small amount of air to get by, to allow the engine to idle, over time deposits will get on the edge of the butterfly and the gap that lets the air in will get smaller and will effect the idle. I hear you about the high RPM's with no OD, the 87 hardbody I used to own (15 years from new), running 33's with the automatic and 4.62 gears would run around 4000K at 60 mph!! not cool getting 10-12 MPG, and no AC either !! I drove it for about 5 years down here in Florida it was to sy the least HOT !! !LOL

I had a JDM engine installed in my 94 and it runs great !! After reading about someone swapping the VG33 in the place of the VG30 I started wondering if maybe I got a VG33 by mistake as my pf seems to have so much power and gets up and goes so well, but I checked and it is still a VG30 but it runs so well and smooth. Years ago I had a JDM VG30 installed into my old 87 hardbody and that engine cost more but you could tell it was low mileage the engine inside and out was spotless, looked brand new, the JDM engine I bought for my 94 PF wasn't as clean (outside) but runs as well as the one I had in my 87 HB. I did notice differences between the two JDM engines, the first one I bought almost 20 years ago had different valve covers on it and a fuel injection system I had never seen on any US V6 engine and it also had ribbed pulleys and I know it came out of a rear wheel drive vehicle as it had a belt driven fan on it, the JDM engine I bought for the PF had the same valve covers, FI, and "V" groove pulleys as the PF's VG30. I only know of a few Nissan vehicles at the time (20 + years ago, US producton) that came with the V6 and were rear wheel drive, the Hardbody & Pathfinder, 300Z, 200SX, so I have no idea what vehicle the first JDM engine came out of. I paid around $600 for the JDM engine I have in my pathfinder now.

filled truck up this morning, 16.6 gallons drove 281 miles = 16.9 MPG, last time was 16.8

filled it up,16.6 gallons $66 but got 16.9 MPG, console magnet still works perfectly!

well after driving to work and back today magnet is still holding everything in place. Better than stock

fixed my console lid

I actually read about the magnets in a hard drive and took one apart to get the 2 magnets out, but they were too big. I tried drilling thru one of them and got 3/4 the way thru it before it cracked.

Thanks, a few minutes ago I drilled out the rivets and put a spacer between the bottom of the plastic tab and the metal so it sits slightly lower, lid closes like stock now. cleaned off the magnet too !

So, the female clip inside my console broke and the top lid would not stay down anymore. It seems you can't purchase just the clip from the dealer and the one's normally found at the junkyards are broken as well. Someone suggested using a magnet so that is what I did. I tried hot gluing the magnet to the lid but one day in the Florida heat caused it to come loose, so I had to find another way and this is what I did for now. I say for now because it is working but have no idea how long it will keep working. I removed the female clip from inside the console cut a piece of metal to fit under the plastic lip where the above clip was removed from drilled 2 holes thru the plastic lip and the metal and riveted the metal to the plastic placed a rare earth magnet I had bought from Radio Shack for another project on the metal strip inside the square cut out where the female clip used to sit in took the top lid apart and used a tapered flat head screw and a plastic insert (the kind found to screw the license plate/tag to your vehicle) I placed the plastic insert inside the console lid and screwed the flat head screw into it so it would act like a nut, the reason I did not use a nut and bolt is because this was what I had lying around. that was it, when you close the lid the head of the screw touches the magnet holding the lid down I may drill out the rivets and put a washer between the metal strip and the bottom of the plastic tab inside the console to allow the magnet to sit a little lower as the way it is right now the console lid is raised very slightly. Pics below: the magnet is dirty as it still has hot glue residue on it