ahardb0dy

That is what the RH hook is designed for, it says it right in the pic you posted, I've seen hooks that have broken but as long as you don't try to pull something crazy it should be fine. "RH only " It means what it says, LH is a tie down only not for towing

yup, everytime I'm in the junkyard and need to find something to use as a pry bar, or am looking for a jack rod or something I can never find one.

what I would do is take a long prybar, wedge it between two of the studs and the ground in the direction you need to turn the hub bolts, it shouldn't move at all that way.

I don't know what bulb the lighted ring around the lighter takes but I have that in my sentra, which being the lowest base "E" model didn't even come stock with a lighter so I added it.

all Cb's are regulated but exports are readily available that put out more than legal limits. Depending on as I said what he wants to do with one. If you choose a fiberglass whip whether it be a Firestik or a Wilson or any other brand ,make sure where ever it is installed that at least 2/3 of the length is above the vehicle for optimum performance, So if the antenna is installed on your rear bumper and the distance from the top of the bumper to the roof is, for ex. 3 feet than you would not want to use a 4' antenna where only 1 foot is above the roof, in this example a 7' antenna would be good, 3' from bumper to roof, 4' above roof, 2/3 of 7' is 4.6666. I don't want to copy from another site so I recommend reading this page especially the very bottom under "basic rules" http://bighairantennas.com/CBAntennas.html

really need to wait and see what the OP wants to use the CB for, we could go on and on about antennas and cb's. What is good for one may not be good for the OP. Once we hear back suggestions can be made.

I'm not up to spec on the 3.3 but on the 3.0 both coolant sensors are right next to each other. But the diagram from the FSM I posted appears to be showing the exact sensor you posted the pic of.

Mine did the same thing years ago on the old hardbody, whole pass side fell, it turned out the tranny shop only had the small lock nut on the threaded adjusting bolt, instead of the large nut with the small lock nut, in my case the bolt and the half round block fell out, luckily I was able to find them, also having the two stage torsion bars the secondary adjuster kept the suspension at the point where the tire didn't stuff up under the fender. Another time before that incident while climbing a hill, same truck, the pass side again fell, wasn't as easy a fix as this time the whole lower control arm split in half like a "Y", had to replace the lower control arm, was pretty easy actually. If your front torsion bar cup is stripped it will involve removing the bar and unbolting the cup to install a new one, if it is the rear mount, same thing just replacing the rear mount. If your truck is sitting on the bump stop check where the torsion bar adjuster is sitting, if it looks to be in the same place it always was than most likely the front stripped out/

that's true forgot that, you can have the best CB in the world and if the antenna is crap your system is crap.

looks like this is what you are asking about:

Some people use the real small cb's and get them to fit either above or below the stock radio, others put them in the center console. What type you get depends on what you want to do with it, ex. close communication within a group when 4 wheeling, talking or getting highway status updates on the highway, talking skip or using it on SSB for the upper or lower channels. Antenna placement also depends on use, best location for the antenna for all around good reception would be on the roof in the center of the truck. Most people will mount the antenna off the rear bumper or tire carrier. Where ever the antenna is installed the reception is best the opposite way, for ex. antenna on pass rear best reception would be forward and towards the drivers side, the reception pattern wouldn't really matter if you just were using it for close contact as in when 4 wheeling in a group. As for brands, Cobra is still decent, Midland, there are a lot of "off brands" you may not have heard of, Ranger, Galaxy, RCi, it really depends on what you want to do with the CB, than I, and others could recommend a particular radio. I personally prefer full featured export or ham radios that are converted for CB band use, I like trying to talk to people out of state or country when the "skip" cooperates, For antennas again that depends on mounting location and use, 4 wheeling in the woods you probably wouldn't want, or need, a 102" SS whip mounted to your back bumper, I usually run a Wilson 1000 perm mount in the center of the roof, they also come in a magnet mount and either version the whip/coil can be easily removed. In the woods I used to swap over to a small 2-3' fiberglass whip, good enough to hear my buddies and small enough where it's not banging into every tree branch. I'm sure others will post their opinions.

I ran 33's and 35's on my old hardbody with the non OD trans and I had the 4.62 gears, never noticed any difference with the 33's, not much loss with the 35's either.

I have the same trans dapt dual filter relocation kit, had it in my 87 hardbody but I had their crappy braided SS hoses (sucked) and I bought some AN adapter fittings from Earls I think it was, still have the whole kit minus the hoses. I had my filter mount installed below the pass. door with the filters sitting as yours are, with the body lift the filters were above the frame close to the body.

that looks like the location for the glovebox light, I added it in my 94 PF as it did not have it stock, nice the wiring was there already. I think it only comes on when the lights are on and when you open the glove box.

you take the blue pill you wake up in your bed like nothing happened, you take the red pill and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes (or something like that), you take the pink pill, you two tone your truck pink, and start adding all pink accessories !!

I bought my 94 knowing it needed an engine, bought a JDM engine for about $600 and had it installed for another $500 runs perfect, the price you were quoted is ridiculous. I would look into finding a JDM engine and get a few prices on swapping the engines out. The other things you mentioned the TRUCK needing are minor. this place is near Seatle, http://www.foreignengines.com/

the red pill right??

wish every problem was that easy !!

no, mine isn't lifted at all I just re-indexed the bars as the previous owner had them all screwed up when they replaced the engine, so it's a little higher than stock in the front. Haven't touched the rear at all.

glad it was easy repair for you.

good luck, hope you find out something wth our suggestions. We'll make you a Nissan mechanic in no time !! LOL

when I replaced my starter in January, I ran new 4 Gauge power wire from the positive terminal to the starter, along with new street Wires car Audio type battery terminals, I eliminated that connector on the positive terminal (the stock one as the metal was broke where it attached to the stock terminal), and I also ran a 4 gauge ground wire from one of the starter bolts to the crossmember. Everything is new and starter worked fine, well up unil last Monday. Bottom line it doesn't matter what you do if the part you use to replace the original is crap. I should have learned my lesson after the starter fiasco on my old hardbody, so my advice is don't go cheap, get a quality part the first time even if it means spending more for it.

did you happen to see anything laying on the floor, possibly something that looks like an old lifesaver candy? The manual trans trucks (and cars) as was mentioned (clutch switch), have a rubber/plastic material bumper that presses against the switch when the clutch pedal is depressed, if that bumper fell out the switch does not get pressed and you get nothing when you go to start it. If the bumper is still there when you turn the key to start have someone listen under the hood to see if they can hear the relay click, if no sound is heard it could be a bad starter relay. If you have a test light and know where the starter relay is or if you can get the wire going to the starter solenoid off you can check for power at the wire going to the sloenoid when you try to start it. Another thing you can do to eliminate the starter as being the problem is to un plug the wire going to the starter solenoid and connect a jumper wire from the solenoid to the positive battery terminal, I don't mean to leave it connected just to touch it to the positive to see if the starter engages. I've had past issues with replacement starters, and have a issue right now with one I just replaced in January, always remember just because something is new does not mean it can not be the problem. Don't know what starter you put in (rebuilt, new,OEM, etc) but the quality of reman starters isn't very high. just for your info, that little rubber bumper for the clutch switch is the same for the brake light switch on the brake pedal, always good to keep an extra one in the truck if you happen to order a new one.

The rack I got came off of a 2000 XT and it did not have anything sticking out of the roof, just the rivnuts as others have said. One day I'll get the thing installed ! LOL