ahardb0dy

I use tinypic.com to upload my pics, just create a free account, uload your pics, than click on a pic,copy and paste the code on the left where it says "img code for forums and message boards" into your post here, Are your UCA's one of the one's in the above picture?

you can try the relay mod like I did, it worked on mine for over a year. Even with the new/reman starter I put in I still kept the relay mod in place.

There has been a lot of discussion on here about the starter and the no start just clicking problem. There is even a technical service bulletin on the Rockauto.com site under the Beck Arnley starter, see below: http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/BA-TBS0113.pdf I think the bottom line is the starter is probably on it's way out. My 94 was doing the same thing, I did the starter relay mod and that extended the time before I finally had to replace the starter by about a year but I eventually had to replace it. Now I am having issues with the reman starter, so from what I've read on here and from my past experience on my 87 hardbody starter I recommend getting a Beck Arnley starter or an OEM one if it's in your budget. Not saying it couln't be a bad ground, dirty battery terminals, bad starter relay but if all that checks out think about replacing the starter and be done with it.

My 94 with 31" goodyears:

B12 sentra uses the same turn signals also

I looked at mine sitting in the driveway, dreading that I'll probably have to pull that damn starter out AGAIN !!

Sounds like a timing problem, I would check the timing first. You checked for spark but do you have spark at all the plugs? You may want to also try to listen to the injectors to make sure they are all working.

I had a dual filter mount on my old harbody and I used the AN fittings, I had the cheap braided SS hoses from transdapt. Hoses are long gone but I still have the filter mount and the filter adapter. Don't want to run dual filters on the PF though. I checked with a local hose company on making some AN hoses wasn't too bad about $19 for a 3' hose with straight ends. Nice thing about my dual filter mount and some singles I've seen is it has an extra in and out port that can be blocked off using plugs, I used one for a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I used Fram PH-8A filters, they were bigger and cheaper than the stock Nissan filter.

So today my new rebuilt starter that I installed on January 14th of this year, two times out of 10 starts the bendix did not engage, starter spun fine just wouldn't start. First time it happened I tapped on it with the jack rod until the bendix engaged, 2nd time I just rocked the truck slightly forward and it started. So what would cause the bendix not to engage? I know if it's starting to do this than I need to return it for another one just hate the thought of having to pull it again. When bendix engages normally starter sounds fine. Thanks

What mount is that? Did you have the hoses custom made?

thanks

have you down loaded the FSM? http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2001/

Almost got stranded at the junkyard. PF has been starting fine since I replaced the starter than today when leaving the junkyard I could hear the starter spinning but I guess the bendix got stuck, luckily another PF owner that was looking for parts had just pulled in and came over to ask me what year mine was and he turned the key as I gently smacked the side of the starter a few times until the bendix engaged. Drove home, stopped at post office was afraid to shut the truck off but I did and it started fine. Went home shut it off was on my way up to another post office, PF started right up. shut it off at PO, came out it started right up, went to hardware store, came out and it did the same thing, starter was spinning but bendix didn't engage. I rocked the truck once and it started right up. Got back home shut it off and started it twice no problem. After putting my sentra back together I checked the rear windshield washer pump on the PF, had power at the harness but pump did not work, removed the pump from the truck, hooked it up to my power supply still wouldn't work. Took the bottom off and removed the rubber impellar and shaft was stuck, turned it a couple times with a pliers, hooked it back up to power supply and it went Wirrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, !! LOL, put it back together, put a short piece of hose on the inlet and stuck it into a bottle of water and that sucker was pumping like crazy !!, reinstalled it in the truck and it now works again. side note weatherstripping I put on the sunroof glass yesterday seems to be working, didn't hear any wind noise from sunroof today. Also washed all the love bugs off the front end.

worked on my steering wheel got the horn and cruise control to work as it should, removed the sunroof and took off theold weatherstripping I had installed on the glass to try and cut down the wind noise and installed new weatherstripping.

Ok, all is working now. Went up to the hardware store to get some spacers but the guy working there had another idea, he suggested 5/16 OD copper tube and than I could cut the spacers any length I wanted too, so he sold me a half a foot which as he said would give me more than enough in case I messed up. I cut 3 spacers about 1/4 " long and put them between the plastic part with the rings and the back of the steering wheel and I also put some dielectric grease on the rings, horn and cruise work perfectly and steering wheel turns easily.

I don't think there is a clock spring in the 94, I've pulled a steering wheel off of a Jeep TJ and I saw what the clock spring looks like and the warnings involved when removing one. THe PF does not appear to have this part. Today I pulled the st wheel from my pathfinder and checked the continuity from the rings on the back of the St wheel and the tabs the plug connects to under the horn button, some spots had continuity others did not so I sanded the rings down and now have continuity all the way around the 3 rings. Put the st wheel back in the truck and I get nothing. It appears the 3 copper contacts are not sticking out far enough ?? So I un screwed the part with the 3 rings and pushed it closer to the 3 copper pins and than the horn works. I found 3 spacers and put them between the plastic part with the rings and the rear of the steering wheel and the horn and cruise work fine but the spacers I used I think are too long, so heading to hardware store to see if I can find shorter spacers. The st wheel with the spacers I used the first time also seem to make the st wheel harder to turn. So if I can get shorter spacers and the horn still works going to put some dielectric grease on the rings to see if that helps.

aimed one of the wiper nozzles, filled the reservoir, have to pull the rear pump to see why it is not working. It was a big day !!

when I first pulled the steering wheel there was like copper looking powder everywhere, I cleaned everything and cleaned the 3 rings on the back of the st wheel, I tried lubricating the rings with dielectric grease but horn wouldn't work at all so I removed it again and cleaned it again and put the st wheel back on with no lube and still doesn't work. I tried spacing the plastic part that has the 3 rings on it out so it would make better contact with the copper pins and that didn't work either. if I jump the horn pin to the shaft the steering wheel sits on the horn works fine, so it isn't making contact with the pics I guess. Next time I go to the junkyard will look for a new steering wheel.

The buttons for the cruise control on the steering wheel on my 94 only work when the steering wheel is in certain positions, the horn also. Sometimes I can get the cruise to come on if I put pressure on certain areas of the steering wheel too. I pulled the steering wheel off and cleaned the contacts on the column and on the back of the steering wheel but still doesn't always work. Was wondering if it would be possible to use the turn signal mounted cruise control from an older PF/hardbody on the newer style PF and remove the cruise control buttons all together?? Thanks

I prefer OEM Nissan but when I don't feel like driving down to the dealer I use Purolator Pure one filters. I tried a Napa Gold one time and the engine was ticking like crazy, replaced the filter with a pure one and the ticking stopped.

I chose that kit because of the aluminum blocks. Never had any issues with the kit or the blocks in the 10 years it was installed.

The Trailmaster body lift kits used those aluminum blocks, I had that kit in my 87 hardbody

I've always used the Ultra Grey RTV to with no problems

An 83 pickup would not be a hardbody, it would be a 720 series, you would need to check E-bay for a FSM. Here is one advertised as a FSM, for an 81, should be pretty much the same as an 83, but no pic of the actual manual: $20 http://www.ebay.com/...4c52414&vxp=mtr You can also go to Autozone.com, register for free and they have service manuals online that are close to the FSM.

Want to talk about mad, when I replaced the starter on my 87 Hardbody way back it lasted 3 days !! second one lasted 1 week !! both local rebuilt units, 3rd one, made by Beck Arnley was in the truck years later when i traded it in.