ahardb0dy

I just found the hex shanked rivnuts/nutserts but can't find a tool to make the hex shaped holes, continuing to search... well found the tool to make a round hole into a hex shaped hole but looks to be an expensive tool and no longer available anyway, going to keep looking for something more reasonable

Off topic: I don't know why all the LKQ's don't post pics of the cars/trucks they put in their yards, the one near me just puts out a list on craigslist but the West coast LKQ's all post pics.

Sorry about that, Nissan may refer to them as 2 different parts but most aftermarket a grille guard and brush guard usually refer to the same thing. So per your question and as to Nissan OEM, a grille guard is the part that protects the grille and the brush guard would be the hoops that mount to the grille guard and protect the headlights. Also per your question, Nissan offered the grille guard/brush guards in tubular and flat steel, my previous pics show the tubular ones here is the flat style that was an option on the Hardbody:

A brush guard and grille guard are the same thing, back in the day when every company and their brother was making grille guards a lot of them offered separately the headlight loops that bolt to the grille guard to protect the headlights. Later on some companies such as Manik, Smittybilt as well as others started to offer one piece grille guards with the wrap around hoops. It was a lot easier to install the one piece units. Nissan had a modular grille guard available as an accessory, modular meaning it bolted together compared to units from the aftermarket that were welded together. Nissan also offered the hoops that would bolt to the factory grille guard. I had seen a Nissan pickup at a show one time in NY (Javit center I think), and it had the factory grille guard, I was impressed with how well it mounted, you could grab that top bar and move the whole truck. Later I bought one for my 87 hardbody. This one: Here is one with the hoops on a pathfinder that is at an LKQ junkyard in Clearwater Florida:

Chevrolet made so many different 350's over the years with some over 300 HP, no a stock 350 from a pickup/van isn't going to have 300 HP but, camaro's, chevelles, corvettes could be at 300 or more,

here are the instructions for the 4" Trailmaster suspension lift so you can see what is involved in installing this lift kit: years ago I had the chance to buy this kit at 45% off of jobber price, if I recall it would have cost me $345, but never did it, really don't like how the torsion bars look like they are hanging down, this was when I had my hardbody which already had a 3" body lift, modified factory UCA's (Jim Conner Racing parts before the tubular arms came out used a ball joint spacer), and 2 stage torsion bars. Truck cleared 35's no problem.

some people prefer Ford stuff, not me just saying.

I knew a guy way back that swapped a V8 into his hardbody, one thing to consider with a Chevy engine the distributor is in the rear of the manifold (older engines anyway, no idea on newer ones) and you have to reshape the firewall slightly to allow it clearance. On a Ford engine the distributor is in the front so no clearance issue.

When ever I hit the junkyards I check the rubber around the rear side windows, If I see one that is better than mine I'll pick them up, as for staying in the groove, if the rubber keeps coming out you could try some silicone or weatherstripping adhesive. The factory pieces have small tabs on the ends that slip into the plastic parts to help hold them in, the problem is over time the rubber shrinks causing one end or the other to come out. Last time I picked up the long "L" shaped rubber I removed the one I had and cut it to fit across the top, because the top piece only has the small tab on one end, the other end slips under the plastic.

some PF's have a cable that goes from the ignition to the shifter, I remember one time at the junkyard I put my key in the ignition of a PF and almost couldn't get it back out ! Started to get nervous,than realized putting the shifter into park allowed me to turn the ignition key back and I got my key out.

no problem, here to help

On my 94 pathfinder V6 which should be the same they are right in front of the engine, left of the distributor, one may have a yellow connector, both are in that general area, can post diagram later if needed. you can see one in this pic, it is a yellow connector just right of the upper radiator hose, the other one is right next to it:

well with the harbody body sitting higher on the frame than the pathfinder plus the 3" body lift i had, it wasn't as bad replacing the starter compared to on the pathfinder, you get real good and fast replacing it after 3 times !!

sounds like what I went thru in my 87 hardbody way back, first starter was local reman, lasted 3 days !! second one was local reman, lasted 1 week !! third one was beck- arnley reman and was in the truck years later when I traded it in !! I told the manager it's nice paying less and having a lifetime warranty but I don't want to have to replace the starter every 6 months !!

I bought it from Advance Auto Parts. And of course I can't find the receipt but the nice thing is they store it on their computer under your phone number, so I called the store and asked them to look it up and they have it. Anyone have any experience with Bosch starters?

Called main office and was transferred over to dept that handles store issues, lady I spoke too said she would forward my question to regional office and they would contact me. Manager from local store called me and I told him what was going on, he said he would exchange the starter for me no problem. I asked about possibly getting a a different starter and he said he could get me a brand new starter from Bosch and I could pay the difference which would be aprox $100. Have to wait for my wife to get home to see what she says, she handles all our finances, LOL I told the manager this starter is a pain to remove and re-install and I wasn't going to remove it, bring it in and have them test it just for them to say it is ok, even though I know it is not, glad I got some where with this.

So the new/reman starter I bought and installed in my PF in February sometimes doesn't engage the flywheel, most of the time the truck will start fine but sometimes it just spins, so I just called the store where I bought it to ask them about returning it. I told the guy what it is doing and said if you put it on the test machine it will probably work fine but it doesn't start the engine every time. He told me they probably wouldn't be able to replace it if it tests OK. I asked for the manager and he said he would be back in 20 minutes so I'll call back to speak to him. This sucks.

Check the computer for codes to see what might be causing the check engine light to come on

Just take one lock cylinder to the locksmith, no need to take more than one, as long as the keys you had before they broke operated all the locks and ignition.

Thanks, had an idea today. We know the xterra racks have that black plastic fairing type thing on the front, I don't think it could ba made to fit on the cut down rack when installed on the Pathfinder, BUT today I noticed a frontier with the tubular rack and it had the fairing, and being that the frontier roof is flat I'm wondering if that front fairing off a frontier rack might work on the Pathfinder???

take one of the door lock cylinders out and take it to a locksmith, they can make a key for it without even seeing any parts of the old key, I had one made for mine that way think it was about $15. Do you have both halves of the key? if so you may be able to take both pieces to any store that duplicates keys, the machine may be able to clamp onto both halves to make a new key, this would be cheaper than the above.

Thanks, I think next project is going to be pulling the starter and taking it back for a new one. I thought tightening the one bolt solved the problem but it is still doing the just spinning thing every once in a while !! So not looking forward to removing/installing it again !!

I was going to ask that but figured he did

good idea

xterra rack is finally done and on, my wife has the good digital camera so I used our old ancient one, pics below: drivers side view: front drivers side mount close: middle drivers side mount close, mount reversed to go inside the rack: rear drivers side mount close: sunroof open and clears rack: view from front" pass. side view from front: