ahardb0dy

I know this has been covered in multiple threads but I just installed the 110 amp alternator in my 94 pathfinder and did it a different way that hasn't been discussed so far. I'm not done with the install but everything is looking good so far. I'll be leaving in a few minutes to pick up a couple longer belts than I should be done, barring any unforeseen problems. I will say I installed the Quest alternator using the stock WD21 bracket with no modifications to it, the adjuster is still 100% functional and I have about 1.5" - 2" of adjustment available. After I get the right size belt and get it on, and make sure everything is OK, I will share how I did this. I will try to take pics but as of right now we are having a pretty good thunder storm and I am working under a canopy but still got soaking wet ! LOL Heading to the auto parts now, I'll be back.

update, the first guy I spoke to from this auto parts store sent me an e-mail at 8:00 this morning asking if I had the order number, I replied the order number is in the e-mail I sent you. !! So I called them and spoke to this same guy. He said the problem was their vendor who he claimed had 2 of these starters in stock apparently did not, he claims the vendor is Bosch themselves, He said Bosch can send out a reman starter instead, at this point I'm OK with that but I told him if you can get me the reman Bosch for the same price with no core charge than I will do it, if not cancel the order. He said it wouldn't be a problem and I should have a tracking number by this afternoon. I told him I would call back later if I don't get a tracking number today. I know I'm a pain in the ass but I'm tired of messing with this and just want to be done with it.

Not sure if they are all the same but the Quest alternator I bought still would need a spacer behind the pulley or the lip would need to be machined down for the stock pathfinder pulley to clear the lip. The built in spacer on the quest pulley is larger than the spacer built into the pathfinder pulley.

I grinded down that lip on mine like Nissan Nut did, got the pulley on good, didn't have a spacer to use except the one that was on my hardbody alt and didn't want to mess with trying to cut it. Tomorrow will be the fun part getting it installed and modifying the bracket to work. I have to say that rear bolt was a pain in the as- to get out!

I pulled the lock cylinders out of about 4 pathfinders, and about 4 sentra's when I did my re-keying project and I don't recall seeing numbers on any of the lock cylinders.

Made a junkyard run this morning, man was it hot out there today !! Picked up a alternator out of a 90ish ( forgot what it said on the truck) Mercury Villager. I actually pulled out another one first but I saw it was reman so I left it. Second one I pulled out ( and bought) I thought it was OEM as it had the green in the middle than after removing it I saw it was a reman also, but it was really clean so I bought it. Stopped at Advance to have it tested, they have a new machine, it gives more info after the test, like ripple (what ever that is), anyway it passed all the tests. oh, it was out of a 98 I think and is 110 amps

I replaced my fan clutch a while back and down here in our lovely 94 degree plus heat on my 36 mile drive home from work with the AC on, my temp gauge never goes above 1/4

If you have the capability to modify the stock arms why not make a pair of tubular arms? Would have to be cheaper than buying a set

not any more it isn't !! LOL

do yourself a favor if you can and pick up a pair of arms from a junkyard in case your plan doesn't work out, that way you can work on the arms and still have your truck to drive. Sorry I meant up, only problem I see with doing that is you are changing the angle of the ball joint, BUT the area of the arm that contacts the bump stop will be in the same place, so you would still get the same amount of lift as if the arms were stock.

no, real trucks have sliding back windows !!! LOL

The only time you would need longer bolts is if the truck needed so many shims that the stock bolts are too short. And no the aftermarket arms do not include longer bolts. Modified stock arms could effect the alignment depending on whether the ball joint location moves in or out compared to stock, if you take the stock arm and cut it like you are talking about, bend the end down, reinforce the arm, I would think bending the end down is going to move the ball joint in slightly.

you are correct the tubular arms are designed to give lift without the ball joint spacer, you may be able to re-work the stock arms and still get the truck aligned with the stock bolts.

The one I was comparing is for a Sentra so it may have a different shaft than one for a maxima, my maxima alt is in the car installed and I didn't have to do anything with the pulley. Without having a Maxima alt on my bench to compare I couldn't say anything as to how the D21 pulley fits. But on the sentra alt, No you can't use the external fan.

ok, so I just went to my storage unit and grabbed the 2 alternators I had in there, one is a OEM Nissan 1987 Hardbody 60 amp that I removed from my 87 hardbody when I upgraded to the 160 amp Wrangler alt I had made, the second is a replacement 70 amp that was in my sentra. The hardbody alt. of course uses a "V" belt with the external cooling fan, the sentra alt, has an internal fan and originally had a 4 rib pulley but I have a 6 rib on it at the moment ( no idea where the 4 rib pulley is), anyway I tried putting the "V" belt pulley on the sentra alt to see if it would work with out a spacer, It does not, than I noticed the hardbody alt under the fan has a spacer, I wouldn't be able to use this spacer with the sentra alt as it is too long but possibly it would work on a Maxima alt?? I have also read that some alt's do not need a spacer at all so who knows..

And now the even more elusive sunroof glass bag....

THE SAGA CONTINUES !!!! I am so pissed right now !!!! I called the auto parts company where I ordered the Bosch starter from to see if it shipped yet, the guy I spoke to said the order is marked as "pending" and he does not know why. He said the person I ordered it from is off today so he can not ask him why it is pending. I told this guy the first person I spoke to said they did not have this part but he said one of his vendors was showing they had 2. When I called back to place the order I asked if they could confirm the other vendor still had the 2 starters and he told me how their inventory is updated daily and they will have it. So now instead of possibly receiving my order on Monday I have to wait until Monday just to see if they can actually get it or not !! Another week now !!! So pissed right now it's not funny !!! Than he tells me well maybe they can't get it and they could substitute a different part !! I told him I do not want a different part I want the one I paid for, oh they charged my card already too!!, Ready to hurt someone right now !!!!

My hardbody never needed longer bolts to align it, and it didn't have a bunch of shims between the arm and the frame either. The purpose of the ball joint spacer in the modified arms is to allow you to crank in more lift before the arm makes contact with the bump stop. The tubular arms has nothing to do with "extreme cases" as you say, the purpose of the tubular arms was to eliminate the ball joint spacer as the tubular arm is angled to allow more lift to be cranked in than if you were using the stock arms.

Tmoore4512, I'm confused now, are you saying one of the pics I posted is the same housing on the alt YOU swapped into yours? If so which pic? The lower one? Tungsten, the top alt I posted is from a DOHC Maxima and is the one I currently have in my Sentra, all I did to be able to use the stock adjuster bracket was to make a short bracket that is rounded against the alt body and I bolted it to the alt tab, the other end of the bracket goes to the stock adjuster bracket location. the 110 amp alternator from the DOHC Maxima uses a different plug (number 306) compared to the Quest which uses the same plug (number 300) as the pathfinder and my Sentra), I didn't bother getting the alt out of a quest because it looked to be more work to get it out compared to the Maxima one the day I was at the junkyard, so I just cut the Maxima plug off and cut the plug off on my Sentra and spliced the new one in. Also the Maxima alt uses a 6 rib pulley the Quest has a 5 rib, my Sentra has a 4 rib but the auto electric shop I took it to looking to get a 4 rib pulley said it was fine to use a pulley with more ribs because the belt will stay on the 4 ribs I put it on.

the housings in the 2 alt's I posted look the same to you both? The first one the single mounting tab is in a different location compared to the 2nd pic, I think it has a larger housing also. Anyone that swapped over to the 90 amp maxima alternator know if the maxima alt is the same size or larger than the stock one?

the 110 amp I have now is like this one: and the 90 amp from a SOHC Maxima looks like this one:

I saw a 1995 electric blue hardbody, king cab, V6, 4x4 with the manual trans and really low miles ( like 35K If I recall correctly) one day on the way home at a used car lot, I stopped to look at it and it was like brand new, went inside to find out what they were asking for it and the guy told me like $8500 I think !!! I went home and searched on autotrader and cars.com and this truck was the most expensive one for sale in the country!!

Tell me about it, like down here in the swamp state, check out these links lot's of pictures of trucks, 4x4 cars with tracks, and southern woman as well: http://www.stroid.net/ http://billpruittpho...hy.smugmug.com/ just noticed this pic, check the truck in the front: http://www.stroid.net/Linden/imagepages/Linden%2C%20Fl60.htm

I'm thinking of taking the 110 amp Maxima alternator out of my Sentra and putting it in the pathfinder than getting a 90 amp for the Sentra. There isn't much room in the Sentra and the alternator is very close to hitting ( if not already) the AC lines.

I don't think removing the 2 bolts is a problem at all, I use a 24" extension with a swivel on the socket end and get right on them. The first time I removed the starter I some how got it out from the top. One time I grabbed the inner fender and pulled it out about a 1/2" to try to get a little more clearance. I know in my old hardbody the trick was to unbolt it, spin it around so the gear end was facing front and than it came right out thru the fender, but as I said that was with a 3" body lift.