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Everything posted by ahardb0dy
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1995 Pathfinder Positive Battery Cable
ahardb0dy replied to Finder95NI's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
If you are asking about a 95 PF the wire going to the starter solenoid, per the FSM is B/P which should be Black with a Pink stripe, the plug for the solenoid would be a single wire terminal plug, can you see if anything is connected to the solenoid? If not that would be why it doesn't start. Per this page out of the FSM there are only 3 plugs in the area of the starter, could one be for the adjustable shock?? -
1995 Pathfinder Positive Battery Cable
ahardb0dy replied to Finder95NI's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Near the starter you have the large cable from the positive terminal, a small wire (yellow I think) that goes to the starter solenoid, and the wire that goes to the oil pressure switch. -
Replaced the alternator and AC belts, fixed leak on tranny hose coming off radiator, made a new hole for the fan shroud upper mount.
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Went to the autoparts to get some new belts and I had them pull a Quest alternator but it did not have any test results in it. As I said prviously, the stock alt belt is 37" long, I tried a 37.5 and it was too short, I had a 39" long belt on it but it was at the end of the adjuster so today I picked up 38 & 38.5" belts, at first the 38" would not fit because I ran out of adjuster room when moving the alt closer to the engine but after taking the bolt out I was able to move the alt closer to the engine and the 38" long belt went right on. I re-installed the bolt and tightened the belt no problem, plenty of room now to make it tighter if need be. For reference the 38" belt number is: Dayco - 38017 Drive-rite - 17380 Duralast - 17380 Napa - PBH 17380
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Clicking sound when turning the wheels.
ahardb0dy replied to onefast87's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
clicking/grinding noise when turning and going over bumps or up/down an incline could be the steering stops, put some grease on them and the noise will stop -
So, I sent an e-mail tot he auto parts store yesterday asking for a refund and told them to send a return shipping label so I can send the wrong starter back to them. Got reply today with all that info. Starter is packed up and will get dropped off at UPS tomorrow. Now have to find another one. Rockauto lists 2 different new starters but no idea if the brands are any good, they are Pure Energy & USA industries, never heard of them. Napa also sells a new starter but doesn't seem like they have any in the local stores or warehouses. Getting tired of dealing with this. I read online somewhere earlier that Autozone reman starters are Bosch but also read a lot of people having trouble with Autozone starters. Going to call Napa tomorrow to see what they say. No luck with NAPA !!! ARRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!! Guess I'll be the guinea pig, spoke to rockauto customer service about the Pure Energy starter, she said they have sold a few of them and no complaints, so I just ordered one, we will see
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sounds good, I didn't read your whole post
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You need to get one of these to put on the switch:
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no I didn't ask in the auto parts store because they were busy, next time I go in there I'll see if they have the quest alt and if they can pull it for me to look.
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you could do what Brix542 said and just have a push button to trigger the solenoid, and leave the key alone, you have to turn the key anyway to unlock the steering column, unless you want to do away with that part too.
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I wonder what flowmaster the Borla mufler I had would be comparable to? Here is my 87 hardbody with the Borla muffler, no cat and the 2.25" tailpipe, wide open in low range:
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I know he bench bled it but could be some air, will have to try bleeding the brakes this weekend.
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also grab the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and move it, you may also want to check the tie rod ends and look for play at the idler arm also, might as well check everything while you have it jacked up.
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When I bought my 94 PF it needed a new master cylinder so I had my guy replace it, The truck stops fine but I noticed something and want to ask about it. If I'm sitting at a light with my foot on the brake pedal I notice the pedal feels like it will keep going down towards the floor and if I press on it harder it will go down further, but if I take my foot off the pedal and than step on the brake pedal again real quick it stops fine, it feels like the brakes are very grabby. What does this sound like if anything? Thanks Oh, my brake fluid is never low either,
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Do a wide open low range video so I can compare it to my video. I had a flowmaster 50 series on my V8 dakota, came with the cat back system and I thought that one was too quiet too so I bought a 40 series sounded better and still not crazy loud. The dakota had the 4.7 V8 flowmaster 40 series with a single 3" tailpipe. But as you said it's personal choice.
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I had to do some work on compression rod mounts on my old hardbody, the front side had no cups and the holes were elongated, I had some metal cut out to fit the whole flat area and the metal shop punched the holes thru the metal for me, than a friend welded them on for me, still didn't have any front cups and I never noticed anything bad with not having them. I am also using those blue Moog bushings now on my PF.
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Looks good, too quiet for me, Sounds a little tamer than the Borla muffler I had on my hardbody, no cat, 2.25" SS tailpipe .
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I got you, thanks for the tip. I need to get to the surplus store down here and pick up some 4 gauge, I need to re-do the power cable for my stereo in the PF too as the wiring kit I bought way back had "fake" 4 gauge in it.
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I may need to get a shorter belt, started the truck this morning and heard one of the belts squeal. Checked the belts before leaving work and it was the alt belt that was loose, drove home and tightened it but it's almost to the end of the adjuster. Will have to check another parts store to see if they have a 38" or 38.5" belt. Going to have to replace the AC belt anyway it doesn't look that great and I think it is an original JDM Nissan belt anyway. Other than the belt being loose everything else is fine.
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I just can't get a break with this. I spoke to the sales guy yesterday and he said he could get me a reman for the same price I paid with no core charge, I guess we had a miscommunication because today when I got home a package was here already, it was my starter but not the Bosch part, it was some company I never heard of. I promptly called them and spoke to the guy that took my order, explained to him that this is not what I wanted, he is e-mailing the guy I spoke to yesterday and will have to wait until tomorrow to see what they are going to do. I told him either get me the Bosch part I ordered or credit my card and I'll go somewhere else. I just can't win with this !! Next stop is back to the Beck-arnley part from rockauto
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thanks, My1path, the M30 alt looks just like the SOHC Maxima alt, Jamesrich, you said "I pulled an alternator from a 2000 quest (125 amp). It had a 4 gauge wire from the post on the alternator following along the fan shroud and connected to the relay accessory box. Then from there it connected to the battery." than said, "On the quest the cable goes straight back from the alternator to the battery" was this 2 different years? I always use audio power cable as it much more flexible than comparable gauge battery cable. I had 4 gauge piggybacked with the factory wire on my hardbody when I had a 160 amp alt in it. That is what the manufacturer told me to do, (Wrangler Power Products). Tungsten, I'll see if I can get the test data for the Quest alt, later after work to see what they say this alt puts out. driving the pathfinder to work today will see how it is on the 36 mile trip
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swapped in a Quest alternator (today and yesterday)
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So, the stock length alternator belt is 37", I asked for a 37.5" and a 38" belt as I did not know which one would work, the auto parts store did not have a 38" belt so I bought a 37.5" and a 39" belt. The 37.5" belt was too small so I used the 39", it fits good and I still have about 3/4" more adjustment if I need it, if the belt stretches. The part number for the 39" belt in the Drive-rite brand is 39017, in Dayco it would be 17390, I do not know if a 38" or 38.5" would work as I did not try these. Anyway, I got the belt on, tightened it, started the truck, checked for clearance issues and all looks good. Shut it off and put the other 2 belts back on, checked clearances, still looked good, started it, everything worked good, checked voltage at battery 14.5 volts at first start up than dropped to 14.21. My install, first I held up the bracket I got from the Quest, of course it does not fit so I marked it and cut about 1.5" off the engine end and shaped the metal to match the part I cut off. Bolted the bracket onto the engine and the bend in the bracket is right where the belt has to go so this wouldn't work. I bolted the stock bracket back to the engine and started to figure out another option and this idea came to me. What I did was I used the cut off piece from the Quest bracket, drilled another hole on the other end and bolted it to the alternator, than the other end I used a nut and bolt and bolted it to the adjuster on the stock bracket. It worked out good because the piece I had cut off the Quest bracket has like a "L" shape to it, and I used the short side of the "L" up against the alternator mount and the adjustment block, this way as I put tension on the belt it pulls the alternator along with it. Hard to explain but I have pics. see below: showing clearance between alt pulley and AC belt: blurry pic (sorry) showing clearance between alt belt and bolt for the bracket I made: Tungsten, where are you getting your numbers from as to the output of the 110 amp Quest alternator? The FSM only gives 2 amp to RPM numbers and they are: more than 33 @ 1300 rpm more than 85 @ 2500 rpm I do know when you buy a reman alternator they usually include a test sheet of what the alt put out at different rpm's, I have to stop at the auto parts store tomorrow to return the belt I did not use, I'm going to see if they have a reman Quest alternator and if they do I'll ask if they can pull it so I can check the test sheet.
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I plan on installing a new 4 gauge wire from the alternator stud to the battery as soon as I can get a length of 4 gauge. The wire that was on the Quest alternator did not look any larger than the one that is in my pathfinder.
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Hopefully the Bosch reman is a quality part, ( I HOPE, I HOPE, I HOPE !!!!), haven't gotten an e-mail saying it shipped yet, I'll give them a little while longer before I call them again.
