ahardb0dy

that's true but he wasn't asking to use a radiator from another vehicle, he wanted to know if they were the same size to see if the dual fan unit would work on the VG30 radiator

The only difference between auto and manual trans as far as radiators would be if the cooler in the radiator is still being used, you would have the 2 lines going into the bottom of the radiator, I don't think they would be an issue even if the fans shroud goes down that low it could be notched to clear the lines There are numerous fan controllers on the market so you wouldn't need to make your own. Having a gauge is nice but is not needed to run the fans, BUT it is nice to know what the temp is in case for any reason the fan controller does not turn the fans on. A long time ago in my 87 Hardbody I was running a large electric fan in place of the belt driven fan, I don't recall if a fuse blew or what but we were hanging out one night and I looked at the temp gauge and it was WAY up there, a quick trip up and down the street brought the temp back down to normal.

how about a custom installed Chevy SS style cowl induction setup, opens when a set vacuum is reached,

seems like they do now doesn't it

Radiator sizes: 91 SE-R Sentra with SR-20 engine Row No 1 Core Height 12 5/8" Core Width 25 1/2" Core Depth 1" Inlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 5/16" Outlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 5/16" Inlet 1 1/8" Outlet 1 1/8" Engine Oil Cooler None Transmission Oil Cooler 7 7/8" (Concentric) 91 Hardbody with KA24 engine: Row No 1 Core Height 16 7/8" Core Width 25 1/2" Core Depth 1" Inlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Outlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Inlet 1 3/8" Outlet 1 3/8" Engine Oil Cooler None Transmission Oil Cooler 11 3/4" (Concentric) 94 pathfinder VG30: Row No 1 Core Height 16 7/8" Core Width 25 1/2" Core Depth 1" Inlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Outlet Header 1 7/8" X 26 1/4" Inlet 1 3/8" Outlet 1 3/8" Engine Oil Cooler None Transmission Oil Cooler 11 3/4" (Concentric) All data taken from Spectra Premium radiators

After searching for the new Bosch starter only place I could find with reasonable price and quick availability was E-bay, spoke to Bosch customer service to see if the store was authorized dealer and they have no record of this company so not taking the chance. Think I'm going to go with a Beck-arnley reman starter. The one I had in my 87 hardbody lasted long time and was still going strong when I traded the truck in. Rockauto has it for $152.33 including the core charge and shipping, and I'll get $50 back for the core (soon as I find one) plus another $95 or so from Advance when I return the crap one I have now. Will update after I get it and install it. Hopefully won't have to mess with the starter again for a long time !! still undecided on which way I want to go, if I do the above I would need to get another starter to use as a core, so new question: Anyone have any experience with New Napa starters? If I go new which I wanted to do with the Bosch I won't need the core, Thanks

I just can't win with this starter problem !!! Just spoke to the manager at the Advance auto parts store and asked if he can order the Bosch starter with me paying the difference and than if I could bring my starter in when the new one comes in, he never answered my question but told me we have a problem, ( must know my last name because things like this always happen to me !!), anyway he says the company he would get the starter from does not have any ! So I ask if it would be possible to just get a refund, he said because he can't get me what I want he will refund the money. So I told him it will be a few days because I need to have a new starter before I can pull the bad one. So off to rockauto.com I go, they have the Bosch starter for $122, I place it in my cart and get a popup saying the part was removed because they don't have them either !! I do a search online and Amazon is showing they have it and cheaper too at $101, place it in my cart to see shipping, free shipping 5-8 delivery time, Estimated delivery: July 27, 2012 - Aug. 9, 2012 !! So any other ideas besides OEM which I can't afford? Are OEM starters new or reman? I see on one of the online Nissan dealer parts sites they charge a core, I thought if a part was new there is no core charge?? any idea how the Bosch reman starters are? I won't put a local rebuilt unit back in any of my vehicles again, went through this same problem with my hardbody really getting tired of it

I wouldn't trust the gauge that comes on the cans. I may pick up a set of gauges one day, no idea if they are any good but Harbor Freight has a set for like $59

I would avoid the cans with leak sealer in them but I have had no problems with the straight freon cans when I needed to top off.

I used to have one but it was making the sun visor shake so I took it off, also used to have one of those vinyl bra's that only covered the front of the hood

it may be a safety device, but you know when you get to the point where something is just driving you crazy you have to do something to fix it, and adjusting the rubber bumpers under the hood wasn't working.

so today did some running around and at my last stop, PF decided it wasn't going to start, had to flag down someone going into the store where I was to crank the key while I tapped on the starter and if finally started, than the gear ( I guess) got stuck and I could hear it half way home ( a couple minutes), than the gear must have retracted and it was ok. Got home shut truck off and it started right up. Going to call the manager at Advance tomorrow to see if he can order the Bosch starter plus me paying the difference with out me bringing in my old one, at least if he says ok I can drive the truck until the new starter comes in. I've never had to remove the motor mount or exhaust manifold to get the starter out but it is definitely one of the jobs I do not look forward to doing. With a body lift it would be a lot easier. Last time I did the drop the idler arm and removed the starter from the front but that wasn't that easy either, kept on getting hung up on the tranny lines !!

no problem, I had the fenders from Jim Connor but never installed them, never got the hood,but had hood pins in my factory hood, got tired of watching the front of the hood vibrating up and down ! LOL

I'll have to e-mail them to see if they have a less expensive line of products.

Skyline's are common where you are??? send a few over to me !! LOL, I would think any needle from an equivalent year range Nissan may work, I wouldn't even bother looking at honduhs

I need a plug with at least 4 terminals, want to keep it clean by having all connections in one. I know of Anderson connectors but I think they only have 2 terminals. Thanks

I found the perfect connector, went thru their whole process online of picking out what I wanted and got to the end and it said, just for one half it would be like $77 !!! I was a little surprised !! so I'll keep looking, this is what I was looking at: http://www.milnec.com/drawings/ps/ps-series-catalog.pdf

I'm looking for a male/female type screw together weatherproof connector that I can mount in my roof for my lights, looking to see if anyone has any recommendations, prefer a metal connector, and also would be good if I could put my own wires into the plugs. Thanks

no problem, you could probably just buy the screws from local hardware store, they nay have the caps too, probably lot cheaper than that kit.

click on pics for bigger pic, the bottom one probably has the closest view. The mounting screws are hex head sheet metal screws and the hardware kit comes with black plastic caps to go over the screw heads. We installed them the same way a little silicone in the hole before the screw goes in. This is the kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lund-Moonvisor-Sunvisor-mounting-kit-screw-caps-OEM-/261052937968?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc7f7b6f0

ok, thanks

I had one on my old hardbody. They are designed to be installed with sheet metal screws and than plastic covers over the screw heads, at the Truck Shop in west Sayville we used to install a lot of them. I had a problem on mine with a few of the screws stripping out so I installed riv nuts and used 1/4 -20 allen head bolts. Only problem I noticed on mine was when I also installed a hood visor than it seemed the roof visor would vibrate. Most important part is having someone eye it up from the front as 2 people hold it on each side. They look good when they are painted to match. I have pics of one on my red hardbody but none that show it up close.

94 PF, my rear view mirror is loose, when shut the door and later get back in the truck the mirror is in a different spot. Just wanted to see if there was anyway to tighten it? Or I'll look for another one next time I hit the junkyard. Thanks