ahardb0dy

To replace the fuel filter first you need to pull the fuse for the fuel pump, than crank the engine, if it starts it won't run for long, than try to start the engine again, when it doesn't start you can move on to changing the filter. You always want to relieve the pressure before pulling the hoses off.

Did you consider using the stuff that comes in the spray cans at all?? Probably would have taken quite a few cans, no idea what that stuff costs. My neighbor painted the top of his wrangler with the spray can bedliner it came out pretty good.

easy way to get an approximation of the ratio would be to turn the wheel one complete revolution and see how many times the, can't remember what it is called the yoke the drive shaft bolts to on the axle, put a chalk mark on the "yoke" ?? and see how many times it turns for one revolution of the tire. If it turns more than 4.5 turns it's probably not the 4.3 ratio and may be the 4.62 ratio.

If the engine has had straight water in it for it's lifetime the impeller can wear out, I doubt yours had straight water running thu it for that long but I threw that idea out there as a possibility, do you or have you noticed any water leaking out of the bottom of the water pump? weep hole I think they call it? I replaced the water pump on my old 87 hardbody way back because water was leaking out the weep hole, I don't recall the condition of the impeller but something failed in it causing it to leak.

nice condition !

The antenna on that mount does not look like a CB antenna, it looks more like a 2 way radio antenna. That mount does not appear to be heavy enough to take a fiberglass whip CB antenna. I would still suggest to stay with either a roof mount or a mount that goes on the spare tire carrier. Wilson and K40 both make very good magnet mount antennas for people that don't want to drill a hole in their roof, I prefer the perm mount over the magnet as it eliminates any wire being on the outside of the vehicle, less chance for a-- holes to come along and cut the coax. We have seen in another thread here how some a--holes put salt in one of our members gas tanks.

not saying this applies to your problem but you may want to check this while you have the motor out, when my window wouldn't go up all I did was take the cover off the motor and wipe all the copper windings off and put the cover back on, it's been working ever since. Just if you take the cover off the motor make sure to mark it so it goes on the same way it came off or the motor will run backwards, I did this the first time, pressed down and the window went up !! DUH !! LOL

you can also try blowing some low pressure air though the lines to make sure they are clear, wouldn't go to crazy with the pressure though

Looked out the window at it, been down with pneumonia for almost 2 weeks now

Don't know if it is much different than on my 94 but it was pretty easy to remove the regulator and motor on mine, what I did when my window wouldn't go up, ( but my motor was not running), I unbolted the glass from the regulator (2 10mm bolts bottom of glass), manually raised the glass to full closed position and used 2 wooden shims to hold the glass up, than un plug the motor plug and removed the 4 bolts holding the regulator in, 2 top, 2 bottom, than un bolt the motor from the door, 3 bolts I think, remove the regulator and motor through the large opening in the inner door panel. The regulator uses metal cables to move the glass up and down, possibly the one for the up direction is off the pulley or broken, I know they are pretty tough I tried cutting one in the junkyard one time and could not. Regulator with out motor $15 from rockauto, link to the pic so you can see how the regulator works below: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1059044

If the spines on the parts truck one look good I would use that one, A new part from an online dealer runs about $31, part number should be 54080-88G00

I thought someone on here did the R50 console swap into the WD21 and also used the R50 auto shifter as the WD21 auto sits lower??

I read on another forum that if you don't put the thermostat in with the "jiggle" valve to the top than air can't get out and it will cause the problem you are having.

I just got mine to work, I took the pump out of the truck, un screwed the bottom and inside was a rubber "flapper" on the center shaft, the shaft must have frozen, two turns with a pliers and it is working perfect again, put it back together and put a short length of hose on the input, stuck it in a bottle of water and running it using my power supply that little pump was pumping like crazy!!

If you don't want to install an antenna on the roof than I would recommend mounting it to the tire carrier (if you have one), using a mount like this: and I would suggest a fiberglass antenna from the same company, Wilson makes good stuff, these antennas are adjustable to tune the SWR using an allen wrench and moving the metal tip in or out under the top cover on the antenna, link to the antennas below, the lower antennas are flex series but only come up to 4' long, I would use the top series in a 4" or 5', pic below: link: http://www.wilsonantenna.com/fiberglass.php

The article also said that options Nissan charges extra for are included on the Suzuki plus the Suzuki has a longer warranty.

sounds like the impellar on the water pump may be wore down and it's not pushing water. If you have a new radiator and thermostat may also want to check the fan clutch after you find out why the water is not flowing thru to the heater.

the Suzuki is a frontier with different badging and trim, everything mechanical is Nissan, here are 2 pics of both 2009 models, I actually like the front end of the Suzuki better than the Nissan: Frontier: Equator: review of the 2009 Equator with more pics can be found here: http://www.jbcarpages.com/suzuki/equator/2009/ Nissan Frontier info and specs here: http://nissanhelp.com/models/2009/frontier_king_cab/index.php

There was just a letter in Truck Trend from a guy who was looking for the Suzuki and none of the dealers near him had any in stock so he bought a frontier, was saying how does Suzuki expect to sell more trucks when you can't find any of them on the lots.

Don't recall where I read it, but the article I read said those colored terminals are like the worse ones ever made. I agree on just tightening the terminals, I put in what I did in case the stock terminal was broken like mine was where those plugs connect to it.

I would rather pay more ( which I did on my 3rd starter for the hardbody) than pay less and have a lifetime warranty and have to remove the starter more often, (not always the case I'm sure some have had good luck with the cheaper ones, not me), as I said in other reply, when I had the hardbody the starter quit, bought the first one, local rebuilt unit, lasted THREE DAYS !!!, pulled it took it back to the store got another one, installed it, lasted ONE WEEK !!!, again pulled it, started getting real good and fast at removing and installing the starter !! Body lift sure helped, took it back to the store and my buddy (who owns the store) tells me " I can sell you a Beck Arnley starter for $50 more", so I was like well why didn't you tell me that to begin with !!!, bought the Beck Arnley starter, installed it and it was in the truck when I traded it in a few years later, never had any issues with it. So that's my opinion and advice. Oh, one other thing, lifetime warranty's are fine but if you return the same part a couple times some stores won't give you a replacement part anymore, happened with my AC compressor for my sentra, the store replaced it twice than said they couldn't replace it anymore, so, so much for lifetime warranty !!

I have bad luck with starters, went thru 2 in one week on my old hardbody, 3rd one lasted until I traded the truck in, I recommend Beck-Arnley or OEM, always have problems with local rebuilt units. I just replaced the starter in my 94 PF in January and it is acting up again now.

new positive terminal with new 4 gauge going to starter on battery, negative terminal now matches the positive, terminals are Streetwires car audio terminals: (starter relay mod can be seen in background)

If you have a replacement lead type battery terminal with the square bolt head on one side and it is digging into the lead or spinning, replace the bolt with a normal bolt and make sure to put a flat washer on each end, that way the bolt head can't dig into the lead and you can still get a wrench on to it. On my positive when I bought the truck the metal bracket that is actually part of the terminal broke off ( the part where the stock plug connects too), so when I redid my starter wire and replaced the terminals I did this to eliminate that plug: 6 Gauge wire from terminal to large butt connector, than wires from plugs into other end of the butt connector, crimped both ends and covered with heat shrink, still can unplug the stock plugs and have secure connection at the terminal.

I think the one junkyard I go to pulls the jacks out and re-sells them to the dealers, one day I was looking for a jack rod and every Nissan I looked in was missing the jack and the rod.