cody1racing

I don't believe there is any wires related to the windows near or in the vicinity of the radio wire loom. Best bet is to use a a volt meter (this is preferred but a lighted 12-24v probe will work) to find your power (constant) and switcher power from the factory radio wire harness loom. You'll want to make a new ground wire (its the simplest way to insure a good ground) after that, you should never, ever use the factory speaker wire. running new wire insures better sound quality and bypasses tons of factory crap that gets in the way. that being said, when it comes to your windows, again trust in your volt meter or its ugly red headed step brother the lighted probe. also, you didn't say which switch was the problem so we'll diagnose both at once in the magical world of our mind or you can just start at the one having problems! up to you really You should start by making sure your switch (wires just before the switch that have been unplugged) at the door has power. (I'll assume for the sake of argument that your put in new speaker wires from the quarter panel to the door on both sides and i say this only because I'll assume that any fault in the wire will occur here first) Why power at the switch you ask, because when it comes to diagnosing electrical gremlins you work backwards. (I will also assume that your going to check all switches that control this window, including but not limited to your drivers door and any cool custom switch you may or may not have) Have power at the switch (again this is a figure of speech and we're referring to the unplugged wires the switch is connected to) in both up and down wires (from any switching source)? Great! Now check the switch itself for a failure. because there is not much more wrong with it then this. How is it this simple you ask... its because if you have power getting to the switch for all functions, then the fault must lie in the switch! ans there you go, you graduated form working on anyone else's electoral problems with a hammer to an adjustable wrench (by the way, this is not a tool and is just a weapon, never, ever work on anything with an adjustable wrench...EVER)!

Replaced fuel filter and soft lines... then went back into the garage to finish splitting the cases on the Ducati... FML!

If its 2WD, then have the rear center bore bored out to 100mm... not to be confused with 4in! you only need to get the rear shoulder of the center bore done meaning you can still use the center caps. just measure the flange on your spindle up front and your rear end... most likely around 20mm at most. Conversely, if your running lug centric wheel spacers (not hub centric its just a PITA) front and rear, you wont have to have the rims bored at all. you'll want at least a 25mm spacer/adapter (because 6 on 5.5 to 6 on 5.5 is what you'll want and not everyone calls that a spacer, its to large a gap) to get things almost correct. I'm not sure if the 18in rims are 7.5 or 8 in wide. if they are the later, just measure the backspacing and adjust accordingly. Also, the rear might not need adapters.. they tuck really well with the extra little bit of backspacing... but I assume everyone's truck is different. I know all this because I just did this with my Pathfinder (4WD) but its all mostly the same. This might sound bad, but most reputable shops wont even look at wheel adapters/ spacers... meaning you'll have to find a shop that does things like this all the time(think low riders and ugly paint schemes). it wont be there cup of tea (speaking of the truck) but they will have things to make sure you get the right size adapter the first time. any other questions, let me know.

New windshield this morning... wow I can see now!

I ripped a horrible interlock security device out, you know, the one with the little chip your supposed to remove when you leave the truck so no one can start it... well a whole rats nest in wires later, I found out why my cruise control didn't work, seems whoever put in the device, used wires from the cruse cable from the steering column to make a few random connections.... a little solder, a little shrink tube, and an hour later, my cruise works for the first time! oh, and there was almost 25ft of wire just twisted around itself... i was impressed!

replaced the dome light actuator switch in all the door jams... what a little pain, but the light works when i open the doors now! (is wondering how every one of them got jacked up)

I know I'm chiming in on this a little late, but for future reference, you will want to remove the passenger side door lock (assuming you have the factory lock cylinders in there). That lock alone has the key codes on it, no other lock on the pathfinder has it. Any good locksmith will be able to make a key based on the numbers found on it. A word of advise, don't spray or clean off the lock cylinder before you take it anywhere( you risk removing the numbers printed on there, although some are stamped in, not all are), The locksmith will clean it and lube it for you. You should also receive (if not, ask) for a business card with your lock info on it(key number, size, cut code). this will save you money if you ever lock yourself out of your car/brake a key by having the info handy (at home, in your wallet or cellphone), then you just call up the locksmith, give them the info, and presto... new key made without headache or broken window or late night locksmith bill.

I love the ones from jegs, I have them in all of the classic cars. just make sure you find one that has the same size/location outlet and inlet. Bang for buck they cant be beat and you wont have to worry about looking for a direct fit (OEM) one that cools just as well as the pathy's stock rad without the headache. But be forewarned that they are generally deeper (thicker) then any stock rad and will give slight clearance issues. ( not to worry, you can ditch any form of shroud with an all aluminum rad) they mount up super easy with some aluminum brackets. ( i make mine with some 1 inch by 1/8 aluminum bent into an S or Z or whatever shape fits with a vise and a hammer.) Just remember, you can only put like metals together without corrosion issues. As for the e-fan mod, look for a v6 ford taurus, mark VIII, or crown vic or the like. they are two speed fans and have three wires coming form the harness. trim the shroud down as much as possible ( you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at one) and you can mount them with efan mounts from any parts store. I like to cut tubing down one side and slip it over the newly cut shroud to protect the rad. (like a nice gasket) also, your gonna wanna look into a fan controller, there are a few out there, but the ford fans pull a ton of amps for a few milliseconds and cook all sorts of wires if your not carefull!!!! spal used to make one, not sure if they do any more. there are a million write ups about this very thing in every classic car place you look. and if your in there, you might wanna think about putting a better alternator in there as well... your new fan will be pulling a lot of juice. i replaced my stock one with a nissan quest alternator the puts out about 145 amps for a whopping 50 bucks! all my lights are brighter now too!!! (this is all thanks to nissannuts website for the alternator ideas) good luck!!!

So the Machine shop sent me a few photos to let me know they started on the wheels yesterday, and to show how much metal is around the stud holes. Gotta love the small machine shops that provide a level of service above and beyond.

Looks like I've got the 4.3's on it now. Its a manual with power nothing, just the way i like it! I'll have to check the sticker of the other two next time I head down to the pull n pay. Its my understanding that the brake master cylinder is preferred outta the 4 wheel disc pathfinder, but not necessary, correct? If i continue with the 4.3 rear end, i can just swap the backing plate and other components with the same (current) axle correct? Am I missing anything important, that, part wise I should grab while I'm there getting things? Is it worth it to up grade both diff's to the larger housings (it'l;l set me back a whopping 160 for both front and rear assembly's complete) and the 4.6's if im running tires larger then 33's? could end up running 36's at the end of the tires tread life.

While I'm waiting on the titan wheels to come back from the machine shop, I decided to do the rear axle swap for rear discs. My issue is they are from the local pull and pay. Is there a way to simply and easily find out the gear ratios on them without busting them both open and counting? The XE I got out of a drive way for free had 31's on it, but that still doesn't clarify if the gear ratio is the 4.3 or 4.6 (the preferable "free" gear ratio for the new big rims and tires) Also, this will help in matching up ratios front and rear with the old front diff and the "new" rear. Thanks in advance. PS I'm getting better at searching for things, but still learning!

Just a little note, sent the Titan wheels out for machining this morning. boring the centers to a total of 3.945 inches and also having the "hat" milled off the center of the wheel for a cleaner look once there mounted. I'll post some pics once they are milled and machined. then some after they are powder coated. Thanks for the heads up and warnings guys. I'm in love with this forum and all the info here.

Just wanted to offer a fond greeting. A thank you for those who already helped me out with answers, and to say I'm hear to learn and help when I can.