ahardb0dy

was wondering about the hardcopy thing, thought you were being funny

I don't recall paying that much for mine back in 87 but The parts manager and his brother were pretty good to me, they probably gave it to me at 20% off cost, as that is what I usually paid for parts. Even now living in Florida I call another dealer back home in NY and the parts manager will still give me the same price break.

Got ya, I was checking my lights today and one of the bulbs is out all of a sudden in one of the Hella's now to find someone who has a H2 100 watt bulb local. The Cepek lights take a special 210 watt bulb, they claimed to be the brightest lights in the world at the time, generating so much heat they built a vent onto the top of the housing to keep the bulb cool, I don't have the 210 watt bulbs any more but the bulb is a H4 base so I will probably get a apir of 90/130 headlight bulbs and just wire the 130 watt (high beam) to come on, right now I have a 90/100 blue coated bulb that I found in the dumpster here ( with about 12 other bulbs and honduh stuff some one threw out), I know they say to avoid the bulbs with coatings but this bulb is BRIGHT and WHITE !! As soon as I get the steel and get the holes drilled I'll get the bar up on top of the rack for some mock up pics, stay tuned. I wouldn't mind some LED lights or one of those new fancy LED light strips but I'm on a low budget and I prefer the old school way.

4" ? no 9", I've always liked Hella lights the Rally 2000 especially they have a magnesium case so no rust, the lenses all interchange and are held into the chrome retaining ring with metal spring wires, easy to swap, and a few different choices on lens pattern, all of which I have. Pencil beam (clear lens), euro beam (some fluting far and wide), cornering lens (heavy fluting very wide beam), also available in yellow lenses but never had any of those.

The stock blue relays are numbered 1,2,3 & 5 and can be used instead of an aftermarket relay for lights and related, I tried this today when testing some other relays. Nice thing about the factory relays is you can get them and the matching plug out of most Nissan vehicles. The plug I have has small wires going into it but I'm sure others have thicker wire depending on what they are used for. If I can get the wire terminals out of the plug I may add my own thicker wire. Just a heads up. sorry, forgot to say good job figuring out your lights !!

Well started to round up my parts today, test my old relays and pulled some of the interior apart to see where I can run my wire, and decided where I would mount 4 switches.. The wire I used on my hardbody and will use again is a rubber insulated 12-4 conductor about 17' long. Relay (s) are old Dick Cepek double relays, these are nice as they take one power wire in but have dual outputs and triggers. I was going to make a plate to install the relay (s)but I think I will only need one and I found a spot near the battery to mount it. Figured out where I will connect my wires, how to get the switch to relay wires into the cab ( thru the non used clutch plate), and I think I'll drill a hole near the front of the xterra rack, feed my wire in than drill another hole near the center mount to pull my wire out, from here I will drill a hole thru the top of the center mount and roof. I pulled the trim from where the pass. seat belt bolts to and think I may be able to feed the wire down the body between the front and rear door. If I can get the wire down that part I'll drill a hole in the bottom of the body and feed the wire up under the hood. Now I have to pick up a piece of steel to use to connect one side of the xterra rack to the other, using the forward 2 bolts on each side to secure it. And I have to decide which light I want to use, not really fond of mixing round and square lights, but I have my eye on a pair of Hella Rally 2000's and if I can get them I'll mount 4 of them facing forward, possibly 2 pencil beam clear lenses in the center and 2 euro beam lenses to the outsides. Than a good idea would probably be to upgrade the alternator. I had a 160 amp dual output external regulator alt in the hardbody, should have kept it !! Whew that was a mouthful !! LOL

Don't recall any wheels 9.5" wide, possibly they are 10's? I would agree with the tech, yes the tires will mount on your wheels but having a 9.50 tire on a 10" wide wheel is going to pull the sidewalls way out, besides giving the bubble look it leaves the sidewall out there where they can easily be damaged. I would expect a 9.50 to be mounted on a 7" wide wheel. Even 10.50's on a 10" would be pushing it. Of course some may disagree with me, I'm speaking as being a former tire mounter in a 4x4 shop for many years.

I looked at mine today and they are the threaded type also.

so, like the Trailmaster lift? I think a Trailmaster type lift would be cool if the torsion bar relocation brackets that were posted in another thread could be incorporated so the bars don't hang below the frams

sorry to hear all the things that happened, you'll find another one.

you just had remote start put in and it is controlled by what? a separate remote? or the one you lost? I don't know about pulling the fuse, it may kill the siren but if the alarm has ignition kill and the alarm was tripped it may leave the ignition in killed mode. This is my opinion as to what I always do with any used car/truck I buy, one of the first things I do is pull out any alarm that is in the vehicle, my pathfinder was the first to have a factory alarm, and that just involved unplugging a few plugs under the drivers seat. I wouldn't want to be out in the middle of no where with an alarm I know nothing about, better to have a new alarm installed where you could call the person that installed it if there ever was a problem. After seeing how some people wire things If I didn't do it myself I don't want it. that is my opinion and we all know how they go, lol I'm sure a few people on here can help you with your problem, good luck.

O.P. sorry for going off topic and if I instigated anyone, back on topic, I know years ago Advance Adapters used to make adapters to put Chevy V6 (maybe V8) engines into the Nissan, just looked on their web site and did not see anything, you could send them an e-mail or call to see if they still sell anything. I think at the time when they had these parts it was pre V6 days. But like most aftermarket manufacturers parts for the Nissan's are disappearing rapidly. The shop I used to work for swapped a 4.3 into a 720 Nissan pickup with Chevy tranny , but that was years ago and I don't remember many details from the swap other than I know we swapped the axle gear ratio to more closely match the engines RPM range, I wasn't involved in the job, I mainly mounted tires and worked the counter.

maybe some one can post the accessories pamphlet they have, I have only seen 2 different styles, the 2 I posted pics of.

I had the ball joint spacer upper control arms for years with the 2 stage torsion bars cranked, body lift, 35's and than 33's, (in the hardbody) never had a problem with the cv's. Went thru centerlinks and idler arms but they suck anyway.

I never leave the sunroof or windows open down here, every afternoon it rains pretty much, parking at 6:15 and getting back to the yard at 4:00 the truck could be flooded.

I was just saying you wouldn't normally find a 350 from a truck making 300 HP, but, one of the 4 wheeling magazines just did an article on saving money by getting a used engine from the junkyard, they specifically said not to overlook the chevy 350's that are found in vans because some of them have the better vortec heads. And what's wrong with a truck engine going into another truck? Would you rather have a 1000 HP engine that revs to 8000 and you would never use it to it's capability off road or an engine that is high in torque? As was stated already engine choice depends on the intended use of the vehicle. If the Op was planning on drag racing his pathfinder than I would suggest to start with a high HP engine out of a car, but if he wants more power than stock for a daily driver some 4 wheeling I don't see why a truck engine stock or lightly modified wouldn't be ok. Tungsten is who started the whole hp for a stock 350, I'm sure anyone who is going to swap a 350 into anything is not going to leave it stock. And I don't agree with the statement that " A stock run of the mill 350 doesn't make 300 hp. Expensive parts will push it past that" Chevy engines are probably the cheapest engines to modify, you can get a package from Summit racing that includes, an aluminum Intake Manifold, 600 CFM Carburetor, Air Cleaner, Fuel Line, Gaskets, Bolts for $422 I don't think that is so expensive for what your getting. I will admit I'm not an expert on Chevy engines so 1994SEV6 correct me if this is wrong.

Well if it ever stops raining down here I may be able to go out and try some things out. Even if I just get it up there, I'll take a few pics. Right now I have 2 of the same Hella lights on the bar on the outside and 2 Dick Cepek C-1000's in the middle, the cepeks are rectangle, would like to find at least 2 more Rally 2000's so they are all round. These are the other pair of lights I have on the bar right now with the round Hella's. the one's on top of the bumper in this pic:

you can use water instead of wd40

if you can get to the injector plug for the # 5 cylinder, next time it starts running rough try to listen to the injector using a long extension and see if you can hear it clicking

So finally got the xterra rack on my 94 PF and am considering adding my light bar I had on my hardbody, this is the bar, it is a combination of a chrome Hickey light bar that sits under a House of Steel pre runner type light bar ( showing my age with these names now !! LOL), I ordered the house of steel bar special way back to combing the 2 the way it is in this picture, my idea back than and still now is all the wiring is hidden in the chrome bar that mounts under the black bar, the black bar is nice because it is wider than a standard light bar and as can be seen in this picture it has room to mount lights facing forward and rearward. I will only have the lights facing forward as I only have 2 complete Rally 2000's left (out of the 6 I used to have), also has room to mount a CB antenna if I choose, I even have the harness I used in the harbody, it's nice heavy duty rubber coated 4 conductor about 3/4" diameter. so this bar: oh the sticker on the rear of the light bar says "Go ahead make my day" for people that like to drive with their brights on !! on this: what do you think?

the relays with the numbers I am referring to are aftermarket relays, not even sure if the OEM relays use numbers

You need to unbolt the glass from the regulator but you don't take the glass out, once the glass is unbolted you need to shim the glass fully up to give room to get the whole regulator assembly out. With the window stuck fully up the mounting bolts that hold the glass to the regulator may not be exposed, you may have to unbolt the regulator first so the whole assembly with the glass moves down enough to remove the other 2 bolts, than my instructions would be the same, here are some pics: rear regulator assembly, only pic I could find, this whole part needs to come out: http://www.rockauto.....php?pk=3472752 I guess on the rear regulators it appears from that pic that there are 2 screws near the top and one in the middle this is from my truck just to give you an idea, the 2 bolts shown here near the white clips are what holds the glass to the regulator:

No video but shouldn't be much different than a front window: remove door panel remove plastic film if it has it unbolt glass from regulator if it is accessible, make sure to have someone hold the glass raise glass all the way up and shim it to stay up with wooden wedges remove 4 bolts holding regulator in (2 top, 2 bottom) un plug connector for window motor remove regulator with electric motor replace motor re-assemble What is the window doing/not doing?

One day I'll get my windows tinted so I don't have to bake inside after the truck sits in the shops parking lot for 10 hours in 95 degree plus heat !! So hot steering wheel will burn your hands never mind leaning on the console lid !! when I had my hardbody we would drive over near the airport right inline with the runway and remove the sunroof glass. sit back and look up, than the planes would come in to land, they looked like they were about 10 feet above you, can't do this anymore as they blocked the parking area off due to the National Security thing !!

I always thought the relay numbers were universal, maybe the one you had was numbered wrong or something?