ahardb0dy

Don't know about this, in my sentra the non tach cluster cars and the tach cluster cars have 2 different harnesses that run from the SMJ up to behind the gauge cluster, not sure if the hardbody has different harnesses. Check it out worth a shot.

some junkyards down here if you tell them you need the grille clips they will tell you that you have to buy the whole grille, they don't want to separate any parts, probably why their vehicles are sitting there rusting, I don't bother with the junkyards like that anymore. Like if you want to buy the steering wheel they will say you have to buy the whole column !!! Probably why people just pocket the little stuff.

removed my old school PPI amplifier that some of the transistors are fried, and installed an Alpine I had laying around

always good to have an extra filter when you run a K&N in case you need to use the vehicle while the K&N is drying

of course if you soak the gauze than install it right away and than start the engine I can see oil getting on the MAF but than you would be an idiot who can't read directions !!

TIE WRAPS !!!! Tie wraps are things you find when you just buy a used vehicle !! Come on, do it right, set an example. Here are 2 crappy getting dark out pics of my clips, keep in mind I have to use this type of clip as my aftermarket grille does not have the same holes as a OEM one: screw tight: the clip, they are nice because they have room to move in the rectangle hole, never had a problem with one pulling out:

but tupperware are air tight if you burp them

I've never had a problem with too much oil on the K&N's as long as you let it dry and soak in after oiling, that's the nice part about them, after cleaning they are white and the oil is red so you know when you have them re-oiled right.

you may be able too if you remove the seat first, otherwise think you may end up breaking the door panel.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22580-how-to-change-hinge-pins/

Anything that puts tension on the latch, being up or down or too far in can cause it to "pop" when it releases. If the body line lines up when the door is closed the striker is probably adjusted properly up and down. Don't forget the strikers when new have a rubber/plastic covering on them.

sounds like the striker part on the door frame is not aligned with the latch. But I would pull the panel and give everything that moves a shot of lubricant and see what that does.

Yeah I was thinking welding would be better but I have to use what I have to work with.

This is how I just repaired one of the upper mounts on the rear hatch lift strut mount, I'm sure there are other ways to do this. First let me say the nut that was inside the hatch door had fell out so I used a ball mount I had and installed a 5/16" x 18 rivnut (nutsert) and screwed the ball mount into that but it came loose and being that I had to make the hole larger to install the proper size rivnut I had to come up with another way to install the ball mount and this is what I came up with, pics below: Before, rivnut removed: The new mount I made, I cut a body lift spacer I had left over from my hardbody (from the bed), just used one of the flat sides, drilled and tapped a hole for the 5/16" x 18 ball mount, I also put a nylock nut on the back side just to keep it tight, another view same mount: trial fit, I used a ball pein hammer to make the mounting surface smooth, and tapped on the ball to make sure the mount was all the way in: I attached the mount using 2 rivets for now, it's holding fine, if it gets loose I'll attach it another way: lift strut back installed, plenty of clearance:

that is the correct part number, the same part fits other models, see this:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=16391-12G00&make=Nissan&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214041 you can go to this site or contact Rob thru this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page__pid__633784__st__440#entry633784

Find another dealer because they don't know what they are talking about, or they wanted to try to sell you the whole part, just looked up that part number on an online dealer and it came up as this: Part Number 1639112G00 Part Name THERMO ELE KIT MSRP $86.60 Core $0.00 Online Price $63.65

so with the other starter it just clicks? I say the starter is bad, whether it tests ok or not, it's fine to test good on the machine but when it's in the truck and doesn't work is when it sucks. I just went thru this with mine, the guy in the autoparts store told me if it tests ok on the machine there was nothing they could do, OH REALLY?? one call to their corporate office took care of that, not only did they refund my money they refunded the core charge too!! When do you hear the clunk? A clunking noise when turning going up an incline could be the steering stops rubbing on the lower control arm, fix for that is to put grease on them.

bad wire to the high beam plug, easiest fix would be to run a jumper wire from the working high beam across to the non working one, unless you feel like tracing the non working high beam wire back in the harness. Also check the contacts in the plug to make sure they are clean. If you have a test light probe the wire on the back side of the plug.

I had a problem on my 94 where sometimes the cruise buttons would work and other times they wouldn't, turned out the part with the rings on the back of the steering wheel weren't making good contact with the pins, I ended up spacing the plastic part out just less than 1/4" and now it works, horn was intermittent also. Being your cruise light is blinking I think it would not be the rings causing the problem. I would as was suggested go thru the diagnostic in the FSM. Don't think it would be the rubber stopper as OP said "My Set/Decel and my Cancel steering wheel cruise buttons work fine, but my Res/Accel button does not"

they show up once in a while, hard to find something that hasn't been made in a long time, post a wanted ad in the classifieds, someone may have one on here.

Where in NY are you? there are a few members up there.

what kind of light bar? the factory one?

wax element = dealer

good deal, and you got 3/4 of the right FSM too !!