ahardb0dy

Today, picked up a oil filter for the remote filter install, picked up a Purolator L30001, was going to get a PureOne as that is what I usually use but it was more than I had on me. Was going to find a place to install the filter mount but it rained most of the day here, maybe tomorrow.

the positive terminal at the battery has about 4 smaller wires coming off of it, possibly a few came out of one of the two plugs causing most of your electrical items not to work, and there may be one or two wires still connected allowing the items you say work to still work??

Anyone have any experience/opinions on the frame rail style trans oil coolers? Was reading on another forum people running them on turbo 400's with V8 engines and saying they work good for them? OK, so everyone usually says you need a certain size trans cooler to use as a stand alone one, so if this is the cooler that is in the radiator, (see below) borrowed pic from kiwipete: I can't see how the smallest aftermarket tranny cooler wouldn't do a better job than the one pictured above??? Also, what temp range would be good for a trans temp gauge?? I was reading a thread about where to put the sender for a tranny temp gauge, being that the tranny pan is kind of tucked up out of the way how about removing the drain plug, installing a 90 degree fitting into the pan and installing the sender into the 90? That way it would keep the sender out of the way? I'm probably going to make my own "block" to install inline with one of the tranny lines, I was at the hardware store the other day looking at options. They have a 1/2" pipe thread brass tee that I can screw the mechanical gauge sender adapter into, than either use barb fittings to "tee" into one of the rubber lines, or can use compression fittings to "tee" into one of the metal lines. Lastly I've read conflicting opinions on whether you want to monitor the trans fluid temp before the cooler or after, what are your thoughts on this? I was thinking if someone used a electrical gauge sender, you could probably install a sender in each line and connect both wires to the gauge using a switch, flip the switch one way get temp coming out of tranny, flip switch the other way get temp coming out of the cooler. Thinking a lot tonight, LOL

even souping up the engine won't bring it back to how it was before the 35's you need to get the RPM's back closer to the stock range, gearing is the only way to do that. I had 35's on my 87 hardbody WAY back in the day and I thought it drove pretty good, mine had the stock 4.62 gears with the no OD auto. Welcome to NPORA by the way, got any pics of your pathfinder?? We like to look at pictures.

click on the link above the picture think it shows you how he mounted the lights

if you haven't replaced the gears that would be something to look into, for 35's the best ratio would be a 5:14

I like the pics on how the guy did got the 2 batteries under the hood in that last link. Usually when you install 2 batteries you would need to run some type of battery isolator, the purpose is to prevent the main battery (one that runs the truck) from being drained by what ever is connected to the second battery (ex, winch, big stereo,etc), When I was working on doing dual batteries in my old hardbody I had my high output alternator built with dual outputs so I didn't need an isolator, I had the battery box mounted under the bed but never installed the second battery. Some of the isolators are pretty plain and others do more things, monitor the batterys etc. My neighbor recently bought an xterra that the previous owner had dual batteries, he installed both batteries in the cargo area, the isolator inside the rear panel on the pass side, and had a volt gauge connected to a switch so he could check the volts in either battery using one gauge. If you end up relocating one battery or both away from the engine make sure to use large power cable. Lot's of info and different methods discussed here: http://www.texas4x4.org/electrical-heating-cooling-35/how-wire-dual-batteries-isolator-battery-selector-switch-12310/

I would start by checking the wiring to the alternator, the plug that goes into it may have pulled out slightly but still look like it is in all the way, that plug has a wire that basically tells the alternator when to "turn on" could be why nothing is working.

I did the same thing, tightened by hand and a 1/4 turn with pliers, the nipples in my dual mount were just threaded in I noticed also as they come right out. Going to pick up the filter I will be using tomorrow once I get the hoses so I can get this installed on the truck. Going to use a Purolator Pure One for a Ford.

Mr Jim, another way to add the sender for the oil pressure gauge, if it is a mechanical gauge, you can do the same as what I did in my sentra, remove the stock oil pressure sender and thread in a compression x threaded adapter. The mechanical oil pressure gauges use 1/8" tubing from the compression adapter to the gauge.

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Stay away from the advance rebuilt, I went thru hell with one of those, it was fine the first few months than it would only engage when it wanted to. I finally got them to take it back and refund my money (and core charge), I ended up ordering a brand new one from Rockauto, made by Pure Energy, it costs $91.89 before any discounts and shipping, and is NEW. So far it is great no problems at all and it turns the engine over very fast. just noticed you have a 96, don't see the above starter listed for the 3.3 in a new unit. In that case I would recommend the new Bosch starter.

Yes, the 3/4-16 nipple, I asked before I opened the package, after opening it I see the nipple has like 2 rows of looks like where it is knurled, closer to one end, I figure that goes into the mount and prevents the nipple from going in too far. If I screw the other end into the mount it will bottom out.

I know you don't use thread sealant was asking about loctite threadlocker?

Question, when you thread the nipple into the oil filter mount do you use any Loctite on the threads?

not the one I was thinking about but similar, the one I thought of the lights were bolted right into the top of the fenders

"all trucks must have the turn signals placed below the headlamps and no light can be combined, which is why Pathfinders have them there." What does this have to do with lights mounted on the hood? I've seen pics on here where someone mounted a pair of lights to the top of the fenders, in the area where the antenna would be (both sides), someone will find the post.

what kind of ends did you use? are they threaded or AN? What type of hose?

haven't done it yet but last night I ordered my oil filter adapter and mount

you can of course get the tach cluster plugs and cut the old ones off and swap them in, that is the way people have been adding tachs in the sentra's for years, I swapped the harness in mine as it was the right way and it was a lot easier than trying to figure out which wire goes to what. Of course as was said if your friend wanted to add an aftermarket tach that would be a lot easier to do, but not what you originally were asking. I know this is a hardbody/pathfinder question but it should be the same as in the sentra from what I have seen..

nice write up so far. You go into good detail and than do this, "What I did here was literally just strip the wire and shove it in there. Then I secured it with a zip tie so it never falls out." You with all your knowledge have to know there are numerous other ways to do this, either use a scotch lok connector, or a wire tap and male spade terminal, or even just do like the alarm guys do and strip back the insulation, wrap the new wire around and solder it or just tape it. You were probably in a hurry or being "lazy" as you refer to other things yourself. No excuse, we can wait for your writeup do it right !

I don't have a FSM for the 92 hardbody but in the FSM for an 89 it shows the harness having different plugs for the gauge cluster depending on if the truck is an XE or an SE, so that tells me the harness is different for the SE (with tach) and the XE (no tach). If his hardbody does not have a tach it is not difficult to swap in the correct harness if you can find one. I replaced the harness in my sentra in about 10 minutes.

guess it depends where you buy it, summit sells it for $119, didn't look anywhere else, was just curious on how much it was, it looked expensive

Looks like a good one how does this one compare with others price wise? I see Summit racing sells this one for $119

The plug with the metal bracket across it? is that what you are asking about? Possibly could be for the AC lines on a right hand drive model???

I was thinking the same thing but didn't write it. K&N has been in business for so long and their filters are used on everything from daily drivers to full off road race trucks and top fuel dragsters, I doubt their filters cause problems, granted a race engine probably doesn't use a MAF sensor but they must filter good and not restrict airflow if a race engine uses them. Sponsor money probably doesn't hurt either ! LOL