ahardb0dy

ASCD = Automatic Speed Control Device = cruise control

Looks good, just for reference Busch sells a clear coat remover. I think I used the same graphite paint when I painted the valve cover on my sentra.

Do you have power on the other side where the wires are green going into the plug? Do you have power at both green wires? If yes to both questions I would follow that thick white wire to see where that harness goes, it may be secured to the inner fender and when you raised the body it snapped causing the noise you heard when you did the body lift. I can look at mine later after work. Possibly when you rev the engine high the wire is making contact than when you just let it idle it breaks the contact? You could as a test run a wire use a size about the same as the size of the thick white wire (10 gauge maybe) from the positive terminal directly to the stud on the alternator and see if that cures all your problems. That would verify if there is a problem with the thick white wire. You could use a clip on each end and just clip the end one onto the positive terminal one onto the nut on the stud on the rear of the alternator.

good job

I've never had to use a steering wheel puller on any Nissan. I usually will loosen the nut but leave it on (don't want the steering wheel to fly off and nail you in the face), than grabbing the wheel at the 9 & 3 o clock positions I just pull and with a slight wiggle the steering wheel just comes off. Never had a problem stripping out the spines or anything.

Is it the large white wire in my pic above? Left side plug? Per the FSM it looks like the large white wire goes to the alternator

I removed my K&N cone filter and put it back to stock, got tired of hearing it. I had the K&N apollo on mine as well as a regular K&N cone filter, and a cheap Spectra filter I found in the dumpster here where I live, someone threw 2 of the Spectre filters away brand new. Apollo: K&N : no pics of the Spectre

which wire has no power? What color? where did you check it that it has no power?

I have a bottle of techron. I started going thru the diagnostic today, Everything looked good so far I got up to where I have marked in red below:

You may be able to do it the way I did and just have someone tack weld the edges. I'm sure you can find someone who can weld. If you rivet it and they do become loose you can drill them out and use screws, or just use screws from the beginning.

didn't get a chance to go through the diagnostic steps today, going to try to do it tomorrow. If the resistance is not within spec, would it effect how the engine runs?

Mine is holding up fine, I don't open and close it 20 times a day so it may not hold up if that is something you do but otherwise it's fine. Doing the upper repair my way you don't really need to thread the metal the ball mount goes through, you can just drill a hole and put a nut on the back ( like I did as a secondary precaution against coming loose). I do believe the ball mounts I am using are either aftermarket (SAE thread) or the stock ones were SAE thread too I don't know. If they are metric you would need to pick up a pair of metric nuts. I read the other thread just now too, I guess the factory struts have the balls attached and are not meant to come apart so if you buy new factory ones they would come with the balls attached already. I picked up a pair of aftermarket ones from a junkyard truck and they use the spring clip to hold them to the ball. As far as removing the old ball mount I think I cut the end of the struts using my dremel until I could pry the metal apart to get the ball mount out.

So my check engine light came on one day last week, I checked the codes and only one that came up was 45 "injector leak", I did a search on here and found a bunch of threads about this as well as other unrelated codes. Most of the threads related to injector leak members were mentioning how they smelled gas under the hood, I do not have that. I checked the small hose that connects the fuel rails and it looks fine, I cleared the code and the CEL stayed off for almost 2 days than on the way home on the third day it came on again. The truck is running as good as it always does, it always smells like it is running rich (at the tail pipe) don't know if that would be related or not. Gas mileage is constant between the before CEL and after approx 16-17 MPG. I guess the next step is to follow the diagnostic in the FSM which I will do tomorrow. If this is an injector problem, can any of them be removed without puling the manifold? I know the drivers side are probably under the manifold but are any on the pass. side accessible? Anything else I should check for the injector leak code?? Thanks

the second link won't open for me says forbidden

I can't remember where I bought my rivnut tool from, think it was somewhere over in Bayshore, it was so long ago. I went outside and looked to see what brand it is, and it's made by Marson, but I looked online and don't see it, looks like they have an improved model available now. The HF one is probably fine it only comes with 10 of each rivnut so unless the HF stores stocks them you may need to find another store locally that has them, graingers should have them. If you buy the tool make sure to try it out in a piece of scrap metal first. And very important is to have the exact drill bit that each size rivnut calls for. Some members on here recommend using a unibit when drilling thru the roof as they make a cleaner hole. HF sells a 3 pc unibit set pretty cheap too see below: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=step+drill+bits

the second method they show in the video is like a manual way of installing the rivnuts, I have a tool that I use looks like a rivut gun. This one is pretty cool looking and a complete kit for about $30, http://www.rivetnuttool.com/#advantage

No problem on the junkyards, those were the only 2 I remember that let you walk around, there are a bunch of other ones that pull the parts for you on Peconic Avenue in Medford. $100 for which rack? Did you check the craigslist ad I posted? There are all types of fasteners to use to secure a rack to a roof, I think one of the more common types are known as Rivnuts also called nutserts, basically these are designed for adding an insert into thin material where you can't get to the back side of the material. this is a pretty good video that explains rivnuts, these rivnuts in this video have a notch that stops them from spinning in the hole, I have never seen this type before and the ones I use do not have it.

So it shouldn't look like this?

I think like most springs ( the rears) they will eventually settle slightly. I wouldn't go too crazy trying to get the front to match up with the rear. When you crank the front you bring the UCA closer to the bump stops, if you keep cranking the front the UCA wil be sitting on the bumpstop and will not allow the truck any downward suspension travel and it will ride like crap. Not to mention the increased wear on the CV axles, ball joints and the inability to align it.

The modified or aftermarket UCA's are not longer, they are built with the area the ball joint sits in is at a different angle than stock, so when you crank them it keeps the ball joint at a better (or closer) angle to what it was stock with no lift cranked in. The reason why some people need longer bolts is, sometimes the truck may take a lot of spacers behind the UCA shaft to bring the truck back to factory alignment specs.

OK, what I would do is start at the beginning, first do you have a test light? If yes continue, if not go get one. I would connect the positive terminal and tighten it than connect the ground clamp of the test light to the negative battery terminal, make sure the test light works ALWAYS DO THIS FIRST !! Worst thing is troubleshooting and assuming the test light works only to find out it doesn't !! Touch the tip of the test light to the positive terminal to confirm it is working than move on. now, check for power at each side of the connectors coming off the positive terminal, the FSM shows 4 fusible links (fusible links will look like small wire going into a large center section with a small wire coming out) coming off the positive terminal Here are the 2 connectors that come off the positive terminal (this is my truck I replaced the battery terminals so I put all the small wires together): Closer view of the 2 connectors: one of those feeds the fuse box inside the truck, so no power thru the fusible link, no power at the fuse box, no power to anything if you need to poke the wire to test for power that is ok, you can always wrap some electrical tape over the small hole you make later. If you have power at the fusible links both sides than you need to move on, if no power on each side of the fusible links than that may be your problem. from what I can see in the FSM wiring diagram, one of the fusible links feeds the door lock timer, one goes to the Rear Anti lock brakes one goes to the adjustable shocks ( if you have them) and one feeds the fuse box so the first three shouldn't be a concern right now Check for power at the positive battery terminal, working away from it, thru the fusible links and report back GOOD LUCK

Just re-watched your video, thought the end of the wire was on the battery side at first, so the wire ends near the air filter? Is there a hood pin in that area? The wire does not look like a factory wire as it has no wrap on it. May be for a hood pin possibly, or an old hood pin?? Don't think an alarm would kill all the power in the truck though. I'll look at the FSM wiring diagram to see if I can figure anything out for you, will post back.

hard to see in the pic, how did you mount the top lights to the cross bar?

How much of the timing belt can you actually see? If you can see the 2 cam gears and when you crank it that section of the belt does not move, does the crank pulley move??? If the crank pulley is turning possibly the timing belt broke but is keeping tension between the two cam gears??? If a valve is stuck open the engine will most likely not turn over completely, that is what happened on the engine that was in my pf when I bought it, and I was trying to turn it over by hand, it would get to a point and you couldn't turn the crank any more.

xterra rack straight on to the pathfinder? No it needs to be modified to fit. The front tubes need to be cut down until the middle mounts make contact with the roof, since the xterra has that step up roof and the pathfinder roof is flat. The croos bars also need to be shortened. All the holes have to be drilled and inserts of your choice need to be installed. If the pathfinder does not have a sunroof it is easier to mount the xterra rack. With the sunroof it still can be done but the front mounts need to be modified so the sunroof can open.