ahardb0dy

looks the same to me

You need to remove the crank pulley and the timing gear to check the keyway. On my old 87 hardbody the dampener/crank pulley and timing gear shared half of one key, and it stripped, had to replace the key and install a new timing gear and dampener. It lasted a while but a few months later it did the same thing and I ended up replacing the engine with a JDM engine. My mechanic at the time was saying if we pulled the engine apart to replace the crank we would not know what else bad we may find so I decided to just replace the engine. Later models Nissan switched to one key for the gear and one for the dampener, not sure what year they did that.

Nice bends !

Here are the Rancho shocks for our trucks: http://www.gorancho.com/shock_lookup.php?cat=shock&year=1994&make=NISSAN&model=Pathfinder+&drive=4WD&height=Stock+-+2.50-in.&submodel=w%2F+Rancho+System&x=43&y=14 the 5000's use rubber bushings, the 9000's use polyurethane bushings Rockauto has the rancho shocks buy 3 get one free the 5000's are $45 each

the bump stops are not on the shocks. Here are where the 2 bump stops are pics below: The stock ones you have are probably fine, you can check them to make sure they are still there. The bump stops kind of limit how far the upper and lower control arms can travel, some people who have a lot of lift cranked into their front ends may replace the upper bump stop so they still have some suspension travel without the upper arm sitting on the upper bump stop. Basically when you raise the front of the truck by adjusting (cranking) the torsion bars it moves the upper control arm down and closer to the upper bump stop. When the UCA is sitting on the bump stop and your tire falls into a hole or similar there is no where for the UCA to move down ( as it is already up against the rubber bump stop) so there is no more travel and you will feel that because the UCA is hitting the bump stop. At normal ride height with stock tires (31's) you should have about 1/2" to 3/4" of space between the bottom of the UCA and the bump stop. I would not replace the bump stops for low profile ones (thinner) unless you have the front end cranked up a lot, which is not good to do anyway. The shocks I would recommend replacing, the truck is a 94 so it is 18 years old and the stock shocks aren't very good to begin with. Most manufacturers use the cheapest shocks they can get and from past experience replacing the shocks to a good aftermarket shock will make a big difference, same applies to the steering stabilizer if you have the stock one. Their are many aftermarket shocks that are good it depends on what you want, Rancho 5000's are the basic upgrade, they make 9000's that are more money and are adjustable. We had Trailmaster shocks on my wife's 88 toyota don't recall which model but they worked good too. rear:

Well Magic Eraser did not work, have to try something else.

"Silly question, but what's the best way to rotate the crankshaft?" Socket on the crank bolt big ratchet or breaker bar

glad I could be of assistance !

you need to check the SWR using a external meter, if the swr is high you will hurt the CB over time. Their is a good CB shop over in holtsville Address: 1031 Waverly Avenue, Holtsville, NY 11742 Phone: (631) 447-1487 the tech there (if he is still there) is Dave, really nice guy and he knows what he is doing, he did all my work on all my cb's.

I can't afford a new windshield so I'll try some of the suggestions this week end and will report back.

That's how it was when I got it from my buddy, he never takes care of anything.

I don't think the marks are from having no wiper blades installed, the marks look whiteish, I tried some really fine steel wool and polish but it didn't do anything. you can see the marks in this picture:

"5. try greasing the latch and the part the latch hooks on too,"

Anyone know of any home remedies to remove wiper marks from the windshield? I know I can get a glass polishing kit from Eastwood.com, wanted to see if anyone has any other ideas, (besides replacing it). Thanks

My 94 was supposed to have a power antenna except the whole thing was missing, I bought a fender mount from Crutchfield, cut the round hole slightly to make it rectangle and mounted the antenna. Works so far.

I checked master rebuild kits for the 2 engines and they are not the same part numbers, do not think they are the same either.

Good old Firestone !!

thanks appreciate the kind words !

Thanks for the detailed reply, No it's not a supercharged x, it was the one i posted pics of a while back with the ARB's and the ARB winch bumper, here's a pic to refresh your memory: I'll have to contact the place where I bought my JDM engine from to see if they have any VG33's for him.

That looks much better, they must have been mounted wrong for a while to dig into the bracket on the control arm.

So, my neighbor just e-mailed me saying the engine in his xterra over heated and stalled, do not know which happened first. Of course this is a PF forum but since the PF also uses this engine I thought I would ask here. I am waiting to hear back from him on whether the engine runs or not so, if it did overheat what is involved in repairing it? Is it that the heads would warp? Can they be shaven down slightly and re-installed? Should he pickup new/used heads? Or possibly get a used engine? Thanks Almost forgot, he took it to a shop and they said it has "burnt heads" What ever the hell that means??? They quoted him $3K to fix it. I told him he could do it himself with help from the guys on the forum.

Thanks, I never saw a steering stop sitting that high before than noticed the ball joint, a quick run outside to look at mine and I knew it was installed wrong. Thanks again, this is the reason we have so many members, anyone can come here for assistance.

My mistake I thought you wrote rear where you said lower, disregard,

are you running a suspension lift too? Do you have the torsion bars cranked so much that you need a low profile bump stop in front? Any lift in the rear? I don't know if I would use the one's you linked to for the rear, you may be better off with these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9104R/ or if you want a shorter one these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9109R/

one way to remove tint on the rear window with the defroster, from how a tinter told me is to spray the glass down with an ammonia based window cleaner than cover the glass with a garbage bag and let it sit out in the sun, than you remove the bag and it is supposed to take the tint with it and not harm the defroster lines. Never tried it so no idea if it actually works. On my vehicles I usually do 20% all the way around., just my preference, not so dark that you can't see through it at night and the windows all match each other.