ahardb0dy

I would agree with everyone, if you are replacing the water pump than you should do the timing belt and thermostat as well. Was/is the truck running any hotter than normal lately?

"That sounds exactly like a 2wd VG30E. They have ribbed belts and water pumps that are separate from the timing belt covers. You have to watch those engines because the ribbed belts need more tension and are very prone to breaking the entire balancer right off the crankshaft. They updated the crankshaft later on to resolve that issue." I don't have to worry about it anymore, truck is long gone, never had a problem with it after it was swapped in, that engine felt like it had so much more power compared to the one that was removed. My guy who did the work at the time, did not want to mess with the dampener since the engine was so clean so we left it with the ribbed belts and I picked up a alternator pulley from an auto electric shop for my aftermarket alternator, ( the guy gave it to me), and I picked up a ribbed pulley off of a 300ZX power steering pump from a junkyard. still have no idea what the JDM engine came out of as I said it had a FI system on it that I have never seen. Back on topic, sorry

I would do it your self, take your time, and if you have any problems/questions someone is always here to ask. But if the guy who gave you the $350 price is good and reliable than that is a good price. The bolt looks like one of the engine block drains, there is one on each side of course. Can't really tell where the leak is from the pics, you need to pull the shroud/ fan to be able to get in there closer, should be able to feel around use a dry paper towel to reach the back of the thermostat housing to see if the towel gets wet. As was already said it may not be the water pump could be the bypass hose or the thermostat housing leaking.

tranny jack maybe??

I don't remember how the guy did my water pump way back, but I don't recall him removing the timing belt. It's been so long since that was done, probably around 1996 I think I might know how the guy replaced the water pump in my old hardbody, just remembered, I had that done after we moved down here to Florida, I had already had the engine replaced with a JDM engine before we moved down here from NY. I think maybe the JDM engine was out of a car so it may have had the 2wd style water pump. As I said in another thread the JDM engine I got had ribbed belts not the "V" belts like the VG30's have in the PF and pickups, and the fuel injection was unlike any I had ever seen from a US model, and it had a belt driven fan so I know the engine was out of a rear wheel drive car.

Why does everyone say you HAVE to remove the timing belt when replacing the water pump? I had my water pump replaced years ago in my old hardbody and we didn't touch the timing belt.

I have the Moog bushings, Moog makes good parts.

I got them from Ace Hardware, don't recall the specifics, but they had them in stock

94 PF just went over 200K (200,806) on the body/chassis anyway, replaced engine with JDM in 2010 when I bought it

Well either way I'm sure you could find someone local to help. If you did decide to swap the frames, once the body is off it would be easier to pull the engine/trans.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_mass-air-flow-sensor-cleaner-crc_7070079-p

I don't know what is available where you live but you may want to look into finding another frame from a junkyard or another PF with a blown engine that has a good frame. It may be cheaper especially if you can not weld or do not have access to someone that can weld to swap frames than to try to fix what you already have.

no prob!

I thought when you ran the temp wire from the positive to the alternator it fixed that problem?

I put 6.5's in my front doors, just have to make new screw holes. If the speakers are too deep you can make/buy a spacer to put between the speaker and the door. As for replacements depends on how much you want to spend, I have a pair of Alpines in my sentra and a pair of Kicker's in my PF, I like both and they were both under $100 for the pair.

I liked the SS pipe I had on my old hardbody, no matter how crappy it looked, a little rub down with an SOS pad would bring the shine back, if you care about how it looks that is. SOS pad works good on stock exhaust pipe to, that is how I cleaned the end of my tail pipe when I first bought my PF

I went to the Energy Suspension site, downloaded the catalog than looked up the part number on the Summit Racing site. I do not see any like the ones in your link on the Energy Suspension site, Went thru all the bump stops on Summit's site found 2 manufacturers that are similar to the one's from 4x4 parts, these look like the ones from 4x4 parts, made by Prothane: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Bump-Stops/Brand/Prothane-Motion-Control/?Ns=Price|Asc the other company is Daystar: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Bump-Stops/Brand/Daystar/?Ns=Price|Asc

Not exactly sure, but you need to have the #1 piston at TDC, than make sure each cam gear is lined up with the timing marks. Someone with more knowledge will reply I'm sure. Is the belt still on (old belt) So you said the crank pulley will spin but the timing gear and belt don't, so is the key missing where the dampener/crank pulley sits on the shaft of the crankshaft? Is that where the chunk of metal is missing? If the belt does not turn the timing may still be set, if the belt was broke I can see the timing being off as the timing gear on the crankshaft could turn independently of the upper timing gears. Pics yet?

I installed the water pump today and put everything back together, it seems to be working ok so far, no leaks anyway !! Might pick up some antifreeze tomorrow. So back to your problem, you said you ran a wire from the positive battery terminal to the alternator and everything worked right?? You may want to install that wire perm. and if everything works as it should just be done with it.

You should re-adjust the height for the 31's. The truck from the factory on the stock offset wheels will clear 31's with not hitting anything. The steering stops are set different on trucks that came with factory 31's too. If you have the stock steering stabilizer, Rockauto.com has a Moog part for $31.79 or a Rancho part for $47.79 Truck Shop in Sayville should have the Rancho steering stabilizer and shocks in stock, call them first 631-589-6500

No, just a poor design I guess, as I said the timing gear and dampener shared 1/2 of a small key. The newer ones use one key for each part. I guess if the crank bolt becomes loose it could cause the dampener to move and shear the key, but when I had mine re-done the first time everything was tight.

neither one of the kits is chrome, one uses aluminized pipe and on is stainless steel. found this on the web: "- Aluminized steel (very good corrosion resistance and durability; performs and looks good for many years with typical vintage vehicle usage and care) - Stainless steel (excellent appearance and durability. “300” Series stainless is more brittle and has poorer thermal shock performance than “409” Series stainless, which is most often used in today’s OEM stainless systems)"

When that happened to my old hardbody I bought everything new (key, timing gear, dampener) from the dealer, wasn't messing around with it. And as I said even with everything new, and my keyway wasn't damaged like your is, and everything was torqued to spec, it did it again a few months later.

where do you live?

Well you can have someone weld the area where the chunk came out, I'm guessing it is in the area where the key goes? If welded than the area would need to be grinded down smooth. Or replace the crankshaft, or do as I did and replace the engine with a JDM one. The JDM engine I bought for my 87 and also the one I bought for my 94 pathfinder I have now both run/an like new.