ahardb0dy

thanks

you don't have to worry about the trailmaster kit, because it's not available any longer.

those look like those gimmick plus 4 plugs, if they work for you than fine, I always prefer NGK, that's what they came with.

Nice work, The only thing I'd scold you on are what looks like those Bosch plugs you used, should just stick to cheap old NGK's

haven't done it yet but have to remove the door lock timer to check it, door locks do not want to unlock with the key or the button and when I close the door with the key in the doors lock.

10-4

I don't think the part number you listed is a correct part number. Can not find it on the B&M site, also where do you get the 19K GVW from? all I see are the coolers rated in BTU's?

would need your Vin number to get the correct part number

Ok so need some feedback on new details I just got from my neighbor, want to see what you guys think. Just spoke to my neighbor, he said the truck was running hot in traffic or when sitting, (most likely is the fan clutch) he said the truck sometimes had water spots under it and he had to keep adding water to it, he was driving it home one day and said he heard noise from the engine, he thought it was in the bottom end and he stopped at a gas station he said steam was coming out from under the hood, he said he waited a while to let it cool than the battery died so he jumped it from the second battery in the truck and added water to it. He continued to drive home and the gauge was pegged and it stalled when he stopped at a traffic light. ( I know NOT GOOD) He got it running and there was water pissing out of one of the heater hoses so he had it towed to a shop he deals with, they got it running but it is very noisy. I spoke to my mechanic about this and he said he would fix it for $450 plus any parts and if he needs to send the heads to machine shop he deals with what ever they may charge, what do you think is making the noise and what else besides the fan clutch and the leaking hose may need to be replaced? I already suggested doing the timing belt while it is apart. Thanks Also, called the place I bought my JDM engine from and they said they have one VG33 in stock for $799

That thing shouldn't be allowed to wear the Pathfinder name !!!

The diagnostic procedure I mentioned for hesitation when cold includes checking the MAF sensor, I know a code did not come up for that but wouldn't hurt to check it too.

when the knock sensor (s) were bad in the Q45 we had, it ran OK but it had no power. I was going to suggest clearing the codes and seeing what comes up as well I think he said when it warms up it runs smooth

there is a diagnostic in the FSM under the EC section for "hesitation when cold" you may want to look at.

today, wet sanded the pass. front fender than used the 3 step Mothers system on it. It looks shinier but I can still see sanding marks. I didn't want to sand it any more as I though I saw primer in one spot, ( it wasn't). But it looks better than it did, I used 600,800,1000 grits, Mothers pre-cleaner, sealer than wax. Going out to clean the windows now so I can see as I will be driving the PF this week as my sentra is down AGAIN, need a heater hose and I pulled it so I could match it up with a new one, locally if possible if not I will be ordering one from dealer thru Rob.

I just went thru this with my sentra, (same switch), the switch I had would not shut the left turn signal off after I made a turn so I had another switch in my storage and put it in, that switch shuts the turn signals off but I remembered why I removed it originally, the Dr. low beam doesn't work, everything else does. I pulled the thin plastic cover off that covers the copper contacts and cleaned them all, still no dr. low beam, the copper "arm" comes down and makes contact with the little pad on the bottom but still no low beam, it has to be something inside the switch so I put the other one back in for now, will have to pretend I'm driving a big truck and turn the turn signals off manually for a while ! You say the switch was new, now a days that doesn't mean very much, quality control on some parts is def. low, unless it's an OEM part. What I would do if possible, is try a switch out of a vehicle that is known to work, ex. friend, co worker, etc), if the lights all work than you know the switch is bad. as for a bulb being out, usually if a brake light/turn signal bulb is out the turn signal light in the gauge cluster will flash very quickly on the side that is bad. The rest of the lights will work, as was said already even with a bad bulb. Just saw this thread (original post) is 3 years old, I would hope the OP has this fixed by now, LOL

ok, still sounds like a really bad miss, check the wires

well the check engine light is on, and when it revs high the speed does not increase so is the tranny slipping? It sounds like it's missing really really bad when you give it throttle. I would as Precise said start with checking the codes, than have the spark plug wires ever been replaced that you know of? I would check the dist. cap and rotor as Precise also suggested, you can take a spray bottle of water and at night while running spray down the wires and look for any sparks, it sounds like one of the wires ( or more than one) is bad and is arcing against metal. My sentra had a problem like that I could floor the gas and it would only go so fast, it turned out one of the plug wires had a hole in it down next to the head and it was arcing against the head, wrapped some electrical tape around it as temp fix to get home and it ran fine, although the spark burned thru the tape after about 20 miles. I used a set of NGK plug wires, they fit just like factory wires, are all labeled and the correct size (unlike some cheap aftermarket plug wires that are smaller and do not stay in the wire holders)

"Was the wife in the car?" :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: was waiting for that one !!!!!!

so since your return from your trip, can you duplicate the whine while driving? Does it happen all the time under the same conditions? Any idea where the sound is coming from, ex. front, back, etc?

New question, on your trucks, how high is the carrier latch above the rear bumper? Or does it sit on the bumper? Thanks as always.

per Nissan FAST it says it is "dam rubber - sealant" what ever that means

I saw a park ranger one time on the beach back home (smith Point), pull a stuck truck out of the sand when a wave came in and buried it pretty good, he must have had about a hundred foot long snatch strap, after they hooked up both ends the park ranger took off !! I mean he floored it, it seemed like he drove quite a distance before the strap got tight and than the stretch in the strap yanked the truck right out.

today, replaced the rear window washer motor with one from junkyard so that works again, pulled the drivers side door panel to check the window and greased everything, now the window is going all the way up with out having to help it. Removed the distributor cap to check it, may be time for a new one. Adjusted the tire carrier.

So I loosened the top hinge and while lifting up on the carrier had my neighbor tighten the bolts, that raised the rubber bumpers off of the bumper, Tried doing the same with the lower hinge but carrier did not move at all.

I would keep it in 4 low, unless someone was stuck on a beach, than 4 high with a long snatch strap