ahardb0dy

I was referring to the CJ's and Wranglers which until recently had straight six engines

I think the big thing is the older pathfinders are quite capable off roaders, as the newer one's have basically turned into "soccer mom" SUV's, the Jeep on the other hand has stayed basically the same since it's introduction, talking about the CJ,Wrangler types. Of course the Jeep's have evolved from solid axles to coils and straight six engines to V6's but they are basically the same. So I think that is why there are so many Jeeps out there. Also unfortunately aftermarket support for the Nissan's has always been hard to find where as the Jeeps parts are available every where.

Thanks, the last link shows a towel or something, lol I'll stick with the Hella's, I've always liked Hella products.

I liked my Hella's when I had them no problems. Where did you get the IPF's from? Praise from Jeep owners, that right there would send me the other way !! LOL here's the Hella:

I'll probably pick up a pair of these one day: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-Hella-H-4-Rectangular-headlights-7-1-2-x-5-/390528505516?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aed5016ac I bought my sealed beams from Walmart, they should be the standard wattage.

opps, actually I just looked them up they were 100/55 watt bulbs, In my pathfinder I just swapped the plugs for the sealed beam headlights that I am running now, no problems at all. I suppose if I switched to the Hella's with the 100/55 bulbs I could upgrade the wiring and use relays.

I used Hella's on my hardbody, can't recall if they were the US or Euro spec, but I had 60/100 watt bulbs.

Living in hot as hell Florida my temp gauge doesn't go above a quarter either and everything on mine is fine.

I had 2.25 SS pipe from the cat back, well no cat had a JCR test pipe with a borla muffler on my hardbody it ran fine, sounded good too.

That size was listed on all the hoses on the rockauto.com site

I thought the stock oil sender was not NPT, thought it was BSPT?

What brand spark plug wires did you use? I had cheap auto parts store wires on my sentra and it ran like crap, would stumble from a stop, put OEM wires on it and it ran perfect. never had another problem. I now have NGK wires and it still runs the same as the OEM wires. You may want to try that.

I bought my 94 around 12/09 Not a PF obviously but related enough, I bought my 87 Hardbody 4x4 brand new and had it for 14 years

how many hoses connect on the bottom? And what does the electrical connector go too?

The only not starting when it's real cold is a puzzle,

I have a full Metric allen head socket set, probably the same size that the Q45 was. Thanks

Went out before and chacked al the valve cover screws I could get too, which means all the passenger side ones and like 3 on the drivers side. They were all so loose I could have removed them with my fingers ! BUT no signs of any oil around the valve covers. Which leads to my next question. I was looking at what is involved to remove the intake manifold, it looks like it is only 5 bolts for the manifold it self, plus all the connectors, plug wires, throttle cables, EGR pipe, etc. I was thinking of pulling it one weekend and while it's off, replacing both valve cover gaskets, the knock sensor, plugs, cleaning the inside of the manifold, cleaning the inside of the TB, of course new manifold gasket too, Anything else? After removing the plenum from the Q45 we had I think anything else would be easy !!!

You can try turning the key to the on position and using a wire jump from the wire that goes to the starter solenoid straight to the battery, I would do this when it doesn't want to start, if it starts fine this way it could be either the relay or the ignition switch. You could also do the starter relay mod.

Just for future reference oem-surplus.com still has a few final drive assemblies available for $150 new surplus: http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/pathfinder-3.htm

Yeah for an OBD2 system

Drain plug is dry, pan looks dry too, looks like it's coming between the engine and trans, but I haven't opened the hood yet to see if it is running down from somewhere, tomorrow I'll check it

Slide the pass. seat forward, remove the cover on the ECU if it has one locate the switch, should be on the rear of the ECU locate the little window with red and green LED's under the clear plastic Turn ignition switch on move the switch on the ECU to the "on" position when the red and green LED's flash together 3 times shut the switch off ( this puts the ECU in the self diagnostic mode) record the number of flashes of the red and the green LED for example 5 red flashes, 5 green flashes means all ok after each color flashes, let it flash again, if you get the same code than that would be the only code, if you get a different number of flashes than that would be a second code, keep looking at the flashes until they repeat than you are done I don't have a FSM for the 88 but these are the codes from the 1989 FSM: 11 - Crank Angle Sensor circuit 12 - Air Flow Meter 13 - Cylinder head/Water temperature Sensor circuit 21 - Ignition signal missing in primary coil 31 - ECU - (E.C.C.S. Control unit) 32 - E.G.R circuit (California only) 33 - Exhaust gas sensor circuit 35 - Exhaust gas temparature sensor circuit (California only) 43 - Throttle Sensor circuit 45 - Injector Leak (California only) 51 - Injector (VG30i model only) 55 - No malfunctions

Those don't look like the codes from an 88, more like a 98. The codes using the red and green blinking lights on the ECU should be 2 digits. 55 (5 red, 5 green flashes) would indicate all ok The codes you posted are OBD2 codes which didn't start being used until 1996

I was just telling my wife that I will go out tomorrow to check it, and look at the valve covers.

So today I used the pathfinder to go to my storage unit and when I got back I noticed oil on the driveway, from under the engine. I backed the truck in as I was replacing an amp and after it sat for about an hour I noticed oil under it again, crawled under and it appears oil is coming from between the engine and trans, I had the rear seal replaced when I had the JDM engine installed a few yers ago. Way to start a new year !!!