ahardb0dy

The plastic part with the wire that mounts to (clips to) the outer part of the lock cylinder is what triggers the rest of the door locks to unlock.lock, their is also a plastic part on the end of the lock cylinder. When you turn the key the two plastic parts ( with metal inside) line up closing the circuit and trigger the lock/unlock. Most likely there is a problem with your door lock timer, before the lock cylinder sensor broke, random unlocking/locking is usually caused by bad solder connections on the board in the door lock timer. I started another thread previously about the timer that you can find here - http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34301-wd21-door-lock-timer/ Pic below: You can see it here too, it's black in this picture:

front so you can steer and not slide, as was said already.

the outer green ring is inches, not Metric, if the caliper is showing .50 it's 1/2 an inch, same scale as the second one you linked to. I know it's cheap I picked it up at Home Depot I think.

I had tried cleaning the rings previously to this and it didn't help

I actually removed one of mine recently to check the exhaust studs and all the shield bolts came out with out breaking, I was shocked

contact ring set back in place, hold the ring when flipping steering wheel over than insert 3 screws and tighten: contact ring spaced out pic again: that's it worked for me !!

I've been asked how I made the spacers I am using to make the contact ring on the back of the steering wheel make better contact with the pins on the steering column. So I pulled my steering wheel and took the contact ring off, removed the spacers, measured them, took pictures of everything and put it back together. Instead of replying to the PM I figured I would share here to everyone. This came about as my cruise and horn would not always work, this was my fix as it was simple and cheap to do, both the cruise and horn now work perfectly and everytime, no matter the position of the steering wheel. My steering wheel may have a damaged part which is causing this problem but I did not have another one to compare the parts too, so I came up with this solution. Anyway, I removed the steering wheel and the 3 screws that hold the contact ring onto the back of the steering wheel, I than cut 3 spacers made from 1/4" diameter copper tubing. I bought a 6" length of copper tubing from my local Ace Hardware, I bought 6" as it allowed me to make extra spacers of different thicknesses to experiment and it was cheap. Of course a tubing cutter cuts the tubing easily and a file will flatten out the cut end I than inserted the 3 spacers in the holes on the rear of the steering wheel and inserted the contact ring back onto the rear of the steering wheel re-installed the 3 screws, ( longer screws may be needed if the stock ones do not reach, on mine 2 were long enough, one was not) re-installed the steering wheel and took truck for a test drive, cruise and the horn now worked as they should and the contact ring being spaced out does not cause any adverse effects when turning the steering wheel, no rubbing sounds and wheel turns as easily as it did before the spacers were installed. Pictures below: steering wheel removed showing pins: back of steering wheel showing contact ring spaced out: copper spacers: tubing cutter and copper tubing: spacer in caliper to show thickness: caliper gauge showing aprox 13/64's thickness: conversion chart: screws to remove to remove contact ring: contact ring removed: copper spacer in hole on back of steering wheel:

way back in the day it smelled terrible, maybe they changed it since than?? Don't know.

Appears to be the same one from the pic you linked too, my pic, LOL. I don't recall any aftermarket companies making a flat brush guard like this one. Could you not ask the seller where he got it from?

fiberglass body, thin fiberglass in fact, most of the Nissan race trucks used that paint scheme, I believe most of the race trucks, even the one's that came with a V-6 used the 4 cylinder engines when racing. forgot, I have the same light bar that the desert runner truck uses, I bought mine separately straight from the company, Desert Steel, the same company was used by Chevrolet on some special packaged S-10 pickups years ago.

My neighbors xterra has the compressor, don't know what kind but it is pretty big, under the hood where the battery used to be, it has dual batteries in the rear luggage area.

Was going to suggest the Energy Suspension lube, Ive used it before, works good but very smelly

The stock torsion bars will not hold the amount of lift "cranked in" as long as the aftermarket bars will. The spring rate on aftermarket bars is higher than the stock bars.

Well it wasn't from rockauto because these would have been the prices: if your replacing all those parts might as well add in the idler arm and shock bushings

Replaced the negative battery terminal. The Streetwires one I had broke. Got to work this morning and when I opened the door the dome light did not come on, thought the switch inside the dome light was bad or the bulb was out, went to start the truck to leave work this afternoon and nothing, no clicking or anything, asked a friend to jump it for me and went to remove the plastic cover from the Steetwires terminal and the whole terminal moved !! That's when I found out it had broken. Rigged it up with another battery cable/terminal and got back home. Than replaced the terminal.

had the AC checked, freon was a little low but my guy noticed a hose leaking. AC is still working but need to order a new hose.

That whole hub can be taken apart, I just did it with one of mine, the center on mine was corroded far worse than those. Pull out the roll pin with a pliers, and the flat spring thing can be lifted off the tabs that hold it down, than unscrew the ring that the flat spring sits against, I think it unscrews left hand not 100% sure. The center dial part should come out next and it has an O-ring.

it shouldn't matter what surface the truck is on, pavement would be better but if you follow the FSM procedure for measuring the ride height you should be able to set the height close.

Hard to see in the front pic, but if the lower control arm is sitting almost level to the ground there should still be some gap between the bump stop and the area it would hit. It is possible that no matter how you adjust the torsion bars that they are so shot they don't hold any amount of lift but I doubt it. Check the gap between the bottom of the upper control arm and the bump stop, you should have at least a 1/2" of gap, if the arm is sitting on the rubber the front is sitting to high. If the lower control arm is sitting against the rubber bump stop the front would be to low. Can you take a pic looking straight on of both sides of the front suspension and post it? Even with the adjustable shocks being set on the "sport" setting the truck wouldn't ride that bad, I have them in my 94 and my truck rides like a Cadillac on the highway, between the stock shocks and new tires I am amazed at how well the truck rides. Post back and we will go from there.

There is a FSM on e-bay right now for $34 if you want the one for your year, there are a few others also but they are more money, link below: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-NISSAN-TRUCK-PATHFINDER-FACTORY-SERVICE-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-REVISED-/160985861024?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item257b814ba0&vxp=mtr

ok, thanks

Thanks, With the GPS I noticed it is 3 MPH off no matter the speed, the tires have good tread look new, They measure 30.5 OD when new, should be similar to what was stock. Vin says truck is an SE with the Off-road package, FAST shows from 7/93 to 6/94 speedometer drive pinion is 18 Teeth and than says from 07/93 is 20 teeth

Don't think the Vin will help, other than telling me what the stock gear should be, the trans was replaced from unknown vehicle (pickup/Pathfinder) and no idea what trim donor vehicle had.

Yes I meant same flow rates

This is referring to VG30E engines out of 4x4 vehicles, JDM especially. Did all the VG30E's use the same fuel injectors, US compared to JDM? Thanks