ahardb0dy

you should be able to break down the front of the compressor (clutch) with out taking it out of the truck, at least to make sure those screws are not the noise you hear. At least if the screws are loose it will save you on having to have the system evacuated and than re-charged.

Sounds like the timing belt jumped a tooth or two and it's out of timing

Well down here in Florida they go for about $41, I went thru 3 reman units in my sentra, just as my AC guy told me each one lasted aboout 1 year, except the last one that I bought cheap on E-bay that only went like 4 months !! Hopefully the one I just put in will last a long time !! All I did to it was clean the outside, removed and cleaned the clutch, flushed it with new oil than added the proper amount of new oil, my buddy pulled a vacuum and charged it so far so good. If you have to replace the compressor may be best to have someone do it, it is against the law to let freon escape into the atmosphere but an AC tech can pull a vacuum on the system first and at least you would know if there were any leaks before adding a bunch of freon just to watch it leak out.

My AC compressor that was making noise in my sentra turned out to be where the clutch magnet (what ever you call it !) bolts to the compressor housing, 4 of the 6 screws were loose, 2 so much it ground the heads flat ! You can take the compressor apart and rebuilt it, not so easy to find the bearings but not impossible. I have a right up some where on how to take it apart, I'll look for it. found it : step 6 are the screws that were loose in mine, I had already bought a used one from a junkyard and have it installed now, freezes me out everytime I drive the sentra ! My AC guy tells me all the time how reman compressors suck so I found an original one, still had the R-12 and Nissan sticker on it. http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-rebuild-your-a-c-compressor-just-in-time-for-summer-too-t267157.html

I was thinking I'm sure someone on here has replaced a radiator recently, that would be good, post what ever you find, thanks

I know, not sure, will have to find one somewhere an do an autopsy on it.

if you can't find the paint code, PM me the Vin number and I can look it up

Yes, that is what I was saying, insert the clips into the rectangle holes, and than use a spacer between the clip and the grille, I am using two 1/4" rubber faucet washers as spacers on each screw.

If you eliminate the OEM grille clips on the top and use the inserts like a license plate screws into you could put a spacer between the insert and the grille, I did that on my PF with the grille with the lights in it, without the small spacers the back of the pass. side light will not clear the AC drier, than you just use screws instead of the grille clips. these are the clips I am using:

Exciting day today, since my step daughter is driving the pathfinder most lately (my AC in the sentra is finally working !), I checked the oil and coolant, re-attached the horn wire to the steering wheel pad (she forgot to tell me the pad came off !!), and re-attached the horn pad, took it for a quick ride to check for any new noises, none found.

could be not really sure, thought someone on here posted that pic.

I know the stock cooler is known to clog and cause problems but after seeing one out of the radiator I really don't see how it could clog, it's basically a straight tube, this is a picture someone found of one: I believe this is from a Nissan rad and it's just sitting on a Toyota box:

There is a specific height that the front end is supposed to be set at per the factory service manual, the procedure for setting them to that height is in the FSM. The manual gives you a range that the measurement should be within. That is according to Nissan, now if you want to adjust the front height because you think it sits a lot lower than the rear than that would be up to you ( or any owner), the "stock" height would be a starting point and than you can go higher if you felt it needed to be. At least if you measure the height based on what the FSM says and your front end is lower than what the manual says you would know it wasn't adjusted properly.

It looks like the harness for an alarm brain, most installers would tuck the brain up under the dash near that location. Does that metal toggle switch above and right of the fuse panel control anything? That looks like the bypass switch for an aftermarket alarm system. Is the red or Yellow wire on that plug larger than the rest of the wires? If so it could be the wire that goes to the ignition kill and it would be a larger gauge of wire. Have you dropped the panel under the steering column to see where the wires going to that white plug go too?

Since the truck is a 90, or for any of our years for that matter, I would skip checking the vacuum lines and just pick up some new tubing and replace all of them that you can, one at a time so there are no mix ups on where each goes, even if the lines look OK, there can be small cracks on the ends that can effect how the engine runs. Also when my sentra was acting up way back, hesitating from a stop, stumbling, replacing the spark plug wires with OEM (NGK I have found is a good quality replacement also) eliminated the problem I was having.

small shot of Nitrous for when those explorers are on your butt ??

It's been a REAL long time but I had the OEM grille guard on my 87 hardbody, I bought it because I liked how solidly it mounted, I don't recall how the upper mounts went on but I do not recall having any problems, guess it helps when all the required parts are included.

have the codes re-checked to see if the mis fire code went away

that is not the manual hvac controls. If you press the defrost button, far right, does the air still come out at the floor??

My engine is a JDM engine so it seems it's in better shape than one that would have been in the truck

I like it, like the hood too

Thanks that pic was stock, I have very modded pics of it also. Your truck appears to be about where it should be sitting for stock, I do notice the front and rear tires look like they are different, that could contribute to the height being different a little as well. You can raise the front end by adjusting the bars to make the truck sit level Also wanted to add, missed it the first reply, if the torsion bars are already cranked and are NOT holding the amount of lift that are cranked into them, than they are shot and it would be a good time to get a pair of after market torsion bars, Sway-A-Way is what I would use. Not sure on the rear mount, I think it was a problem with the mount, you could check with Rob on here he may be able to tell us something about it. Every king cab I see the body seam doesn't line up. this was my 87 at it's "highest", lol 3"body lift, suspension lift, two stage torsion bars, on 35's, lot's of other goodies too !:

Just because the torsion anchor bolt has thread left does not mean you can adjust them more, it depends on the position of the adjuster in relation to the cross member, if the adjuster is already tucked up inside the cross member than you can adjust them anymore and would need to re-index, if the adjusters are angled down than you can still adjust them. Any time you adjust the torsion bars yes it will effect the alignment and you should have the truck re-aligned. If you crawl under the front of the truck, how much space is there between the bottom of the upper control arm and the rubber bump stop?

Your truck has the typical rear cab body mount problem, look at the body seam between the cab and the bed, the cab is slightly lower, Nissan had a problem with those rear cab mounts, a lot of the extra cabs are like that, I took the bolt out on my 87 and put a washer (big washer) between the mount and the body than put the bolt back in to make it level. As for your height issue, The rear leaf springs will sag over time, they probably are sitting almost flat, they didn't have any major arch in them when the truck was new anyway, if the leafs are sagging that bad, which the rear doesn't appear to be low in your pics, you could add a full length add-a-leaf into the spring pack, I used a trailmaster leaf in my 87 way back, I originally had the short Rancho add-a-leaf but I snapped it four wheeling, the long leaf is better gives a better ride too. the truck should look like this stock with 31's, this was my 87 pretty much about a month or two old: the black hardbody def. has a body lift, but I do not think the torsion bars are cranked that much if at all, notice the lower control arms in the pic appear to be sitting flat, if the truck had a lot of lift cranked in they arms would be angled down.

I replaced the latch in my 94 glove box, ( the lock was missing too) with one from a hardbody. Than I took the lock cylinder apart and re-keyed it to match the ignition key, not hard to do. The door and ignition lock cylinders use 8 wafers, can be seen in pic below, 4 are spring loaded up, 4 down: this was my 90 sentra ignition when I took it apart to re-key it, (I re-keyed both vehicles to match the pathfinder ignition key so I would only need one key for either vehicle), basically the same as the pathfinder's locks, the glove box lock cylinder only uses I think it was 3 wafers since it's not a high security lock.