ahardb0dy

Sorry if this has been covered already. I know the 94 PF has a electronic gauge cluster ( no cable for the speedometer), but there still is a gear on the transfer case isn't there? What I want to know is if there is any way to determine what gear I have by looking at it. My speedometer is reading 3 MPH fast, (compared to what a GPS unit says, I know that may not be 100% accurate either), I have an SE and it came with 31" tires which I am running now. I know my buddy that I bought the PF from replaced the tranny but do not know what trim level pickup or pathfinder it came out of so I'm wondering if maybe the trans came out of a truck that did not come stock with the 31's and that would cause my speedometer to read in correctly. Thanks

Was going to say the stock harness does not have a ground wire for the radio and the radio must be grounded to the chassis some where. And if you did connect the radio ground to one of the wires behind the radio that it may have been your problem. But you figured it out already.

It's leaking from somewhere, haven't determined from where yet. All I know is it appears to be leaking on the ground from the rear of the engine, I had a new rear main seal put in when the JDM engine was installed 3 years ago. I think it may be coming fro the dr. side valve cover but I need to pull the manifold so I can get to some of the bolts. The bolts I could get to were loose enough I could have removed them by hand. It's overdue for an oil change, I'm waiting until I get the hoses for the remote oil filter, I only want to remove the oil filter one time than it will be the new filter in the new location. May order the fittings and hose Friday from Summit.

Added a quart and a quarter of oil, so hard to see the level on this dipstick, one side shows normal one shows nothing, would think if the oil was at a certain level it would show the same on all 4 sides. Lubed the dr. door window rubber with pure silicone, window now goes up on it's own (for now anyway).

Today, removed the Dr. side exhaust manifold shield to check the studs, surprisingly the bolts holding the shield all came out, usually they break. All studs are intact, nuts were tight, no sign of any exhaust leak. Must just be me that I think it sounds like there is a leak, maybe it's just the way it sounds. Engine block still looks like new can even see assembly marks above the exhaust manifold, good thing for JDM engines !! Removed a wire harness that was sticking out a hole in the firewall, think it was alarm related, it went down to the Dr. side kick panel and was plugged into another connecter that went into a harness, no idea what it was for. Check my AC, system must be low on freon, clutch would not engage, bypassed the low pressure switch and clutch kicked on, added freon, seems like it started to get semi- cold, will have to drive it to see for sure. Removed the Dr.s side Warn manual hub to check it, was not able to turn the dial at all, inside it was all corroded and rust flakes,dust everywhere. Removed the whole hub, took the hub COMPLETELY apart, cleaned everything, greased everything lightly, re-assembled it, re-installed it, now can turn it with 2 fingers. Checked the pass. side hub, still turns easy. Checked the oil and it seems very low, may be a good idea to add some, think I will tomorrow. that was it on the pathfinder, (sentra removed the muffler it is shot), sounds good idling with no muffler but very loud revving it !! LOL

I just want to get them set to where they should be. I'll probably just keep making adjustments until I get flashed by an oncoming vehicle than adjust them back slightly.

So I called one of the local Nissan dealers to see if they had one of those headlight aiming machines, they said they don't, so they don't aim headlights? Or they just do it on a wall??? Seems to me a dealer should be able to do this, have to call another dealer. Yes I know I can aim them on a wall and if I want to get technical draw the lines, etc, etc, but I don't want to go thru all that, rather have it done for a few dollars. I must have them aimed half way decent, at least no one driving towards me has flashed their lights at me yet, it just seems when I put the high beams on that both lights are kind of centered in the middle of the road. I may just turn the pass. side out a little more. I can say the E-code Hella's with the 100 watt high beams put out A LOT of light !!!

I've never had a problem removing any steering wheel without a puller from a Nissan. What I do is loosen the nut but do not take it off, grab the wheel at the 9 & 3 o'clock positions and while pulling on it wiggle it slightly from side to side, they pop right off. Now, on my buddies old Buick regal we had to get a puller cause that sucker was on there !!!!! I rented the puller from Advance for like $20, it was nice everything in a plastic case, when I returned it I asked if they sell them and the guy said they do for the same price, so I told him I wanted to buy one, he had a brand new one on the shelf so I got one for $20, it's a nice kit too !

Mine was doing the same thing, I ended up picking up a 6" long piece of copper tubing and than I cut 3 aprox. 1/4" wide spacers out of it, smoothed the edges and used them as spacers to move the ring closer to the contacts, works perfect and can't even tell the spacers are there. I was looking for spacers at the local Ace Hardware and one of the guys there suggested the copper since I could cut it to what ever length I needed and being 6" long gave me plenty in case I made a mistake or had to try more than one thickness. Now cruise and horn work perfect.

where exactly is the "switch" you are looking at that has a bolt on it? The switch should just be a regular switch. In the dash, left side of the steering wheel.

There are 2 rubber bumpers on the brake pedal, one for the brake lights one for the cruise, if you are missing one that may be why the cruise does not work. (If your truck has a clutch there would be one of the rubber bumpers on that pedal too) You can download the factory service manual from here, it's free, and you will use it a lot: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ just click on your year, open each section and than save each section into a folder, you can go thru the troubleshooting steps for the cruise if none of the common problems fixes your problem. As for testing the steering wheel contacts, does your horn work? Does the horn work when the steering wheel is in different positions? If so I doubt the contacts are your problem. As for the wiper washer it is pretty common for the pump to stop working, there are two pumps in the washer fluid bottle, one front one rear, does either one work? Have someone try move the wiper switch to the spray position and listen under the hood to see if either one makes any noise. Mine wasn't working and I removed the pump, removed the bottom (3 small phillip screws) and turned the shaft a few times carefully with a pliers, mine was frozen, and after that it worked, for a while anyway. You may also want to try blowing some air at LOW pressure thru the washer fluid lines to make sure there is not a blockage and to make sure water actually moves thru the lines. It is also common for the small holes on the spray nozzles to get clogged from wax, the nozzles (front) are easy to remove, I usually will remove them, and hold them under hot water in the sink while using a small sewing needle to clean out the holes. Let me know anything you find out and we will go from there. I also have a 94 and am also in Florida but in Central Florida just above Orlando, good luck

Does the cruise do anything? Meaning does the light come on ? If it does but doesn't work it could be the rubber button on the brake pedal is missing, check the vacuum line coming from the cruise control pump under the hood, Pass side rear, make sure the hose it attached and not leaking. Could also be a contact problem with the rings on the back of the steering wheel not making contact with the pins in the steering column.

Sanded the hood down and painted it again, looks pretty good for spray paint. Next day waxed it and adjusted the hinges.

Sunday, made a headlight harness to use a relay with my new Hella H4 headlights, installed the relay and drivers side harness, Today, installed pass. side harness, finished wiring relay, installed pass. side headlight, ran out of the small wire loom so some wires are uncovered in photo below: Hella H4 headlight installed:

I ran my 4 gauge thru the side of the main harness grommet, seen here (before the wire) under dash side: I used this tool which makes it very easy: http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/pliers-and-sets/electricians-electronic-pliers/accessories/

Took the hood off and painted it gloss black, 2 cans, need another one. Removed and painted the wiper arms flat black, look just like new. Started the wiring for my upgraded headlight harness and installed one of the Hella headlights. I bought 2 headlight plugs from advance auto parts, removed the thin wires and soldered new 10 gauge wires to the connectors than re-inserted them into the plug. Red, Blue and Black wire. Mounted one of my old Dick Cepek double relays and a automatic resettable circuit breaker on a small piece of plastic behind the battery. The bracket that was there had a hole in the top already so I drilled it out larger and installed a riv-nut (nut sert), than used an allen head bolt to secure the plastic and relay. I ran the new harness (high and low beam wires) from the drivers side to the relay, I used an existing ground point on top of the rad support as a ground for the new H4 bulb. Ran the harness covered with wire loom in front of the radiator. Tomorrow if I have time, have to tie in the pass. side harness and connect the trigger wires from the old headlight plug to the relay.

How did you wire your new headlight harness with the relay's? I saw something on the Daniel Stern site about some Japanese cars use ground switching or something like that when switching between high and low beams. Did you ground the headlights to the chassis? or back to the relay?

Yes, I meant right hand traffic, they are E-code though, made for Germany which also has right hand traffic.

4 wheel parts, with 10% off ends today I think

Same bulbs I had when I had the Hella's in my old Hardbody. In the FSM it states the wattage for a conventional bulb is 65/55 but for a halogen it says 65/35

Found a good deal on Hella H4 bulbs today 55/100's, 2 for $16.66 delivered.

I lubed the carrier with WD40 and I know members on here said it was not a good lubricant to use but months later if I open the carrier and don't hold onto it, the thing will swing all the way over with no effort at all.

I was getting around 9-10 with my non OD automatic hardbody with 33's and 4.62 gears back in the day, about 16 now with my pathfinder, same gears, OD auto and 31's, different FI of course, I'd be happy with 20 MPG !!

Hey, if anyone has access to a wind tunnel I would love to see if my sentra can be made more aerodynamic !!

I have the plastic (Nylon?) tubing run into my car for my oil pressure gauge, I don't worry about it, have it covered with wire loom, for anyone worried about running tubing they also have copper or even braided line that can be used instead. I also like that even when the car is off the gauges still register, well temp anyway. Precise1, when you inquired about the autometer gauge accuracy, was that for the electrical gauges? I wonder if the mechanical gauges have the same percentage of accuracy??