ahardb0dy

So I was looking at the wiring schematic and the front and rear side doors have one wire going to the door switch, which indicates to me that when the door is open it connects a ground allowing the front light to come on, but the rear hatch switch has 2 wires going to it wonder why? If I was to run a ground wire from the Dr. door switch to the rear hatch switch wire, I guess the luggage area light would come on when the Dr's door is opened too? what do you think? Here is the page from the FSM:

94 PF, the luggage area light in my PF comes on when the rear hatch (not the glass) is opened, I know it is a 3 position switch same as the front light (on,door,off), is the luggage light supposed to only come on when the rear hatch is opened? Or should it come on when any of the other doors are opened? I would prefer it to come on with the front light and I'm sure if it is working the way it is intended that it probably wouldn't be too hard to make it come on with the other doors. Anyone do this?

Or he can mount the first aid kit on the front or Rear ARB bumpers. The truck is too nice to get rid of, if he though of selling it I would have to find a way to buy it, as I said front and rear ARB bumpers, front and rear ARB air lockers, air tanks under the front fenders (2) and the side steps were made into air tanks as well, dual batteries, Cal Mini HD steering, lot's of goodies.

I think when I had one that I couldn't remove I cut the head off with a dremel, than after the hub was removed the bolt just came right out by hand

http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp?LugCount=6&StudSpreadInch=5.5&StudSpreadMM=

Can Hydraulic hose be pushed on barb fittings and held with clamps?

I told him it should almost be like new now with the engine repaired and tranny rebuilt. Friends don't let friends buy CAR50's !! :laugh:

(I posted this question in the how to section under the installing a remote oil filter, if a mod could delete my post there please.) So I have the oil filter mount and adapter, have the filter mount installed but was waiting to get hoses made. Realized it would be a while before I can afford to have hoses made or to buy the fittings to make my own so I was thinking the other day of just using rubber hose and barbed fittings, instead of the AN fittings I already have. So question is what type of hose would be good to use that would be available locally? Can heater hose be used? The ports/thread on the adapter is 1/2" NPT so I should try to find 1/2" hose right? Thanks

Yes exhaust is stock

So I have the oil filter mount and adapter, have the filter mount installed but was waiting to get hoses made. Realized it would be a while before I can afford to have hoses made or to buy the fittings to make my own so I was thinking the other day of just using rubber hose and barbed fittings, instead of the AN fittings I already have. So question is what type of hose would be good to use that would be available locally? Can heater hose be used? The ports/thread on the adapter is 1/2" NPT so I should try to find 1/2" hose right? Thanks

My poor neighbor, he just got his xterra back and now the tranny went !! so it's being rebuilt along with a trans cooler and mild shift kit

you didn't read down far enough, the original post states the following: the green & yellow wire is the brake light wire the pink & blue wire is the driving lights (ya know..when you have yer headlights on...) should be the marker lights the gray & blue wire is the left turn signal. the wire for the passenger turn signal is the gray & red wire. ( on the passenger side)

Not worried really, the truck always seems like it runs rich, haven't checked using the ECU yet, but mileage seems lower than it should be, even though MPG is low to begin with. Think I got better mileage with my 4.7 V8 Dakota I used to have.

I always thought I had a leak in the exhaust some where, I thought it was under the truck. Monday after having the tires rotated and balanced I took the truck to a exhaust shop for a free inspection, the guy said it was leaking from the drivers side exhaust manifld but he couldn't tell if it was the gasket or the manifold was cracked, I said it was probably a broken stud as we all know that is a common failure. Anyway I was thinking since the O2 sensor is after the exhaust leak could the leak be sucking air in causing the O2 sensor to think the engine is running lean and than tell the ECU to make it run richer? 94 pathfinder by the way Thanks

It looks like this but longer:

Per the 1994 FSM, the turn signal/hazard lights use 2 fuses, top row second fuse from the right side and bottom row fifth fuse from the right side. Also for the tail lights it shows 2 fuses, both bottom row, far right fuse and 4th fuse from the far right (both bottom row), your 93 should be the same. Check the fuses I suggested than report back. But your saying the rear hazard lights work, and the rear turn signals work?? Weird. Check the bulbs in the front and also check to make sure power is making it to the plug/socket for the front lights.

yes

Truck is done, shaved the heads, new head gaskets, intake, valve cover gaskets. New knock sensor and plug, new plugs, new wires, couple of hoses, new oil, new antifreeze, water pump, timing belt, think he said it needs the O2 sensors replaced and the IACV, $450 labor, $80 to shave the heads, $600 in parts, total was just over $1100

the trans in my 87 hardbody, non OD, made it to 130K miles before it's first rebuild. The tranny shop guy said it didn't owe me a thing as he had seen a lot of them needing to be rebuilt with a lot less miles on them than mine. At first rebuild they added a tranny cooler. Trans ended up being rebuilt 2 more times before I got rid of the truck.

Will see after he finishes doing what ever he has too, I'm sure my guy won't say it's done if it still has issues.

So today I called my mechanic buddy who is repairing my neighbors xterra, he told me the engine got so hot that it melted the plastic on the knock sensor and the plug and also melted the 3 long spark plug wires. He said he had to chisel the rubber residue out of the holes to get the plug wire boots out ! I know he sent the heads out but do not know if they were shaved or rebuilt, will find out after Monday. He told me all he had left to do was tighten the alt belt and add coolant and he will be done with it. Will have to wait until my neighbor picks up the truck to see what the final damage was ($'s)

Not sure on the OD trannys but on the earlier non OD ones when my trans went the first time in my old hardbody, I don't remember if I lost first or reverse but the guy at the tranny shop told me first and reverse are on the same clutch pack and when one goes the other is not far behind. No idea if that is true or not just what I was told way back.

your right, missed that part. I would still say it's either the ignition switch or the starter relay (stock one).

O.P. said it's an Auto, first line

If you hold the key to "start" and jump a wire to the relay going to the solenoid will it start normally? When you go to start it by turning the key to "start" do you have power at the wire going to the relay? (relay mod I mean) If you have power going to the relay for the "relay mod" than that indicates power is coming out of the ignition and thru the stock starter relay, if there is no power than either the ignition is bad or the stock starter relay may be bad.