ahardb0dy

Lot of places, I bought my adapter and filter mount from http://www.summitracing.com/ they sell the hoses too or you can have the made locally

Aren't the 2 headlights fed from one side already stock? I thought the wiring ran to the drivers side than across to the pass side?? If the proper gauge wire is used I don't see a problem running both headlights off the wiring from the drivers side.

I've noticed both senders in my sentra and the Pathfinder seem to read low, the sentra is worse about a 1/4" lower than it actually is. It's possible the float in the tank may have a hole and fuel has gotten into to it causing it to sit lower than it should, or the sender itself can just be worn out. One day I'll pull the whole unit out of the tank to check it.

fast turn signal usually indicates a bad bulb

If you can drive around with your high beams on and no one is flashing you than the headlights are not aimed correctly. I'm running Silverstar Ultra bulbs in my sentra, they are pretty good, very white light, but I have converted my pathfinder to the hardbody style headlights, I'm currently running normal sealed beams but will be upgrading to a pair of Hella conversion headlights with H4 bulbs in the future. I had them in my old hardbody with 55 watt low/100 watt high and I made my own relayed harness. The conversion headlights put out much better light than a sealed beam or the stock pathfinder headlights.

so far still working perfectly it's been 2 weeks

http://www.alloyusa.com/gear-ratio-calculator

When I had the JDM engine installed in my hardbody we used the oil pump from a 300zx, it was supposed to be a higher volume, but no clue on replacing it I had my buddy who was a mechanic do everything.

you could try some gas line antifreeze to remove any water that may be in the fuel.

clean the throttle body

Just order the Moog part from rockauto.com, they have 2 listed it says one number supersedes the other but either one should work fine, part number K200163 is $9.11 and the newer part number is K9515 at $18.58. If you chose the second part number with shipping (I don't know your zip code so I just picked one from Austin and used 73301 to get a shipping quote), and with the 5% off code of 115678258590730, the total would be $26.13 Moog makes good parts I used the same set on my 94.

good, so what are we working on next?? LOL

mine is still working so far, before I took it out and re-soldered the connections, last week trying to unlock all the doors with the key or even from the drivers door lock switch wouldn't do anything.

so you removed the fusible links and connected the wires straight to the battery?

got any pics of what you got? and your battery terminal?

you could always pull the hub apart and check the bearings, if they look ok, re-grease and re-install, or while it's apart just replace them. When I first bought my 94 there was slight play so I pulled the hub apart, re-greased and re-installed, no problems with play since.

i recently replaced the comp rod bushings on my 94 and the cups were perfect so yours could be as well, I've had good luck when separating ball joints to hit the joint on the side with a hammer usually the shock will pop them loose.

Well my neighbors xterra finally made it's way to my buddies shop, will find out in next couple of days what exactly it needs to survive. I told my neighbor I highly would recommend having the timing belt and knock sensor replaced while it was apart. He said he would ask fort hose things to be done once he finds out what was wrong with it.

If your going to replace everything than you need a centerlink, inner and outer tie rod ends, your adjusting sleeves are probably fine, if you want all new than replace those too. 2 upper and 2 lower ball joints, idler arm, on 2wd trucks it's called a tension rod, on 4wd it's a compression rod part number for Moog is either K200163 or K9515, I don't see a difference between the 2 part numbers it just says the K9515 supercedes the other part number. One kit does both sides. Nothing to replace on the centerlink, just buy a new one if you need it and replace yours for the new one, that's the problem with Nissan centerlinks compared to say Toyota, on the Nissan part the ball joint parts (not sure what exactly they are called) are on the centerlink so when they wear you have to replace the centerlink, on the Toyota part it just has the holes so nothing wears on the centerlink itself. As to brand, I personally use Beck/Arnley, I guess it's up to each person and how much you want to spend

I just put it back in and it's working ok so far, will keep an eye on it over the next few days.

I pulled my door lock timer out to check the solder connections and took some pics in case anyone else may wonder what it looks like or where it is, this is on my 94, do not know if it is in a different location on the earlier 2 door models: Here you can see where it is mounted, Drivers side rear cargo area, the grey box in this picture closest to the fenderwell: closer view of above: after removing you can see it says "door lock timer" right on the end: side of case with bracket: circuit board removed from plastic case, component side: did not take a pic of the solder side as my soldering would probably scare people away !!

just get 2 of each, the inners are left hand thread the outers right hand

the link above takes you to a drip irrigation kit, don't know if that's where it was supposed to. They have a mini grease gun for about $6 but I think the tip that comes with it is too big and they have an accessory kit that costs more than the mini grease gun.

31 inch tires are a factory size option, I would recommend replacing what you need using OEM or Moog parts, of course OEM is more money but Moog makes good parts. I would not bother with the factory steering stabilizer, others may argue but I think you would be better off using one by Rancho. Check out rockauto.com if you don't know about it already, the parts are a lot cheaper than local parts stores and you can get a 5% off code to take off your whole order. Their customer service is very good and shipping is quick. They also sell the Rancho steering stabilizers. I would also suggest downloading the Factory service manual it's under the garage section on here, click on your year, each section, when it opens save each section into a folder and you will have the complete manual for FREE. Steering parts at rockauto are here: http://www.rockauto....ramecatalog.php service manual here: http://www.nicoclub....995_Pathfinder/

I went out to lube my spare tire carrier today, was going to just spray the top and bottom of the hinge with some WD40 than I noticed the holes, I remembered reading about greasing it on here than looked for this thread. Will have to look for one of those grease gun attachments, for now the WD40 seemed to help.