ahardb0dy

You can get the same Energy Suspension bump stops from Summit Racing for less, This is the product in the first link you posted from Summit Racing for $8.95 compared to $12.50: http://www.summitrac...ts/ENS-9-9102R/ This is the product in the second link you posted from Summit Racing for $12.99 4x4parts is actually cheaper ! http://www.summitrac...ts/ENS-9-9132R/ This is the product in the third link you posted from Summit Racing for $8.95 compared to $22.50: http://www.summitrac...ts/ENS-9-9101R/ I would stay with the first one for the fronts, I think the ultra low profile one is too thin.

I know you already bought it, but My wife bought me the Harbor Freight big rollaway box last x-mas and it is pretty decent for the price. What kind of mechanic apprenticeship are you doing? is it a school? Or are you working for someone learning as you go?

I think I know why the stop is so high, I saved your pic so I could make it larger and zoom in, than I ran outside to look at my pathfinder to compare. It appears someone installed the lower ball joint on top of the arm, the thick part of the ball joint mounting surface should be on the bottom of the arm. The steering stop should not change height in relation to the torsion bars being adjusted up or down, it may just change the angle that the stop contacts the bracket on the Lower control arm. Also when you fix this, add some thick wheel bearing grease to the head of the steering stops (1 front side of arm, 1 rear side of arm each side of course), the grease will prevent the scraping noise when you make a full lock turn and are going up an incline. Some trucks have plastic covers on the heads of the bolts and you can put grease on them as well. Good luck, let me know how you make out after you install the ball joint the correct way. the ball joint should be installed from the bottom of the control arm and than the bolts go through from the top, and the nuts are on the bottom. You can see it here in the FSM for the 95 pathfinder, see picture below: You can download the FSM for your pathfinder for free, here: http://www.nicoclub....FSM/pathfinder/ click on your year, than open each section and save each file into a new folder and you will have the FSM, very good thing to have. The FSM's link is under the garage section in the pinned topics.

are there any markings or brand name on the sunroof you have? Perhaps with some research the company may still be in business

I ordered a new water pump for it, hopefully it will be here Monday, going to take it apart later to see what the old one looks like. I looked under the hood of my PF but I'll go out and check some things and write you back in a few.

maybe the pollution in Jersey eats the plastic???

I just looked up the flywheels for a 95 PF and a 96 PF with the 3.3, the flywheels, from 2 different companies are the exact same part numbers. Also looked up a 98 and it is the same part number too.

I ripped the alarm out too when I bought the PF, one less thing to worry about !! LOL

The shroud that was on my 87 hardbody, which I owned from brand new for 14 years, and it lived thru NY winters and summers, mud, pressure washing at the car wash, body lift, etc, was in as good condition when I got rid of the truck as it was when I picked it up new, no problem at all with the plastic.

1. have you checked the level of fluid in the trans? May be low 1.a - check fluid in clutch reservoir or may be time for a new clutch 2. scraping sound when doing a full lock turn especially at low speed or when going up an incline most likely is the steering stops, they usually have plastic caps on the bolt heads to minimize the scraping noise, apply grease to the stops and the curved metal part the stop hits against and the noise should go away. If the steering stops do not have the plastic covers (early trucks did not come with them) you can add them and than grease them. see below: 3. do all the locks not work? If so the switch you bought may be bad, try cleaning the switches with electrical contact cleaner and after spraying them work them each way a few times, will the locks work if you press really hard on the switch? The noise in the rear hatch may be the lock actuator, the rod may have popped off, pull the plastic cover and have some one press the lock button while you look at the actuator to see what it is doing. 4. no idea 5. try greasing the latch and the part the latch hooks on too, slowly close the hood while watching where the u shape part on the hood lines up to the latch, the latch may be out of adjustment, easy to adjust I think it has 3 bolts. If the hood closes hard (tight) it may be engaging too low which would make it hard to release. 6. first thing I removed when I bought my 94, don't want to hear that annoying chime all the time, most likely a problem with the rear hatch sensor, does the light come on showing the rear hatch is open when the chime goes off? There is a thread on here on how to adjust the sensor. 7. the clip that holds the lens to the housing, you would need to find a new clip at a junkyard, you are removing the lights soon anyways so no problem. If you are going to use the stock wiring for the new lights you may still have a problem with the new light going on and off when you hit a bump or something, most likely this is a bad ground to that light. If the new lights ground thru the mounting bolt I would recommend adding a seperate ground wire from where the bulb sits ( should be a tab for a push on crimp terminal), to a good ground, you can tie the ground wires from both lights together and run the ground wire to a bolt on the radiator support.

I like the bolt on tip that Gibson has, I used one on my flowmaster cat back I had on my dakota. James how does it sound?

sounds like some good engineering to build them with drains ! Availability of parts is a good thing as well, agree as well.

The guys on the NICO site swear by the BG44K, I thought it was only available to dealers but found a can at work and used it in or Q45 we used to have. Don't know if it made any real difference but it couldn't hurt. I had already pulled the TB and intake plenum off and cleaned it best I could as I replaced the 2 knock sensors and the harness that are under the plenum. It was really dirty when we bought it, some of the passages were blocked with carbon, had to use a pick to clean them out !! I cleaned it pretty good. This is dirty: looking into intake plenum, lower hole was totally blocked: after ( this was as far as I could get clean and was before I pulled the intake off): TB butterfly from back side: after: I also removed those little crud ridges on the bottom after pic was taken , (with brush I found in one of the hoses):

they are designed to supplement the overhead lamp so you can see at night when the door is opened.

in your opinion, haven't had any problems with the factory ones.

I just looked on the Borla site and on Summit racing, do not see anything listed for the older pathfinder any longer.

My bad, missed the vinyl part. But they do show about 5 different vinyl floor mats, he will need to e-mail Norman to see if any are available. They have them listed for $50 ($233 list).

oem-surplus has some carpet for the pathfinder and pickups, the front section should be almost the same.

can you tell if the thermostat is opening? Is the coolant circulating? The truck should run cooler so there has to be a problem. It should run cooler with the stock sized radiator in it.

nope, not it either. I looked in the FSM for my 94 and it shows a "Window amplifier" in the wiring diagram, it looks like it is near the pass. side kick panel. But in the FSM for my 87 and one for an 89, in the same wiring diagram it doesn't say "window amplifier" it just says "amplifier" and it shows it below the radio.

I don't think that is the window amplifier, it should look identical to the one in the video

check the fan clutch first, no need in replacing parts that may not need it.

I just uploaded it to mediafire, the free version, no idea how long it will stay there, link below, try it: http://www.mediafire.com/?ny84a0iu7gfq7

The last muffler i had on my hardbody was a Borla, I liked it. Just got done speaking to the company about getting a muffler the same or similar to the one I had way back, they were very helpful, returned my e-mail the very next day that I wrote to them. I had a flowmaster but it cracked ( this was when flowmaster first came out and they only had one model)

Rockauto has the muffler for about $89 not too bad plus you can use the 5% discount code to save a little.