ahardb0dy

I agree with what was said already, when driven within the limitations of the truck the idler arm and related parts will probably survive and last a normal amount of time, but any of the front end parts can be wiped out in a couple of minutes if they are put to extreme use. One time I pulled a suburban out that was high centered with my hardbody, the front end of my truck came up so much from yanking the guy off the hill he was on and bent the hell out of the idler arm, it only took that one time, a few minutes to bend the arm. Any part can be made bulletproof but like has been said it's just going to show the weak link some where else.

I have always liked Moog parts and will use them given the choice over anything else. This was my ghetto idler arm brace I had on my hardbody running 35's than 33's and never had a problem with it: I know it didn't prevent the "arm" from bending, but I had previous problems bending the shaft the "arm" pivots on so for that it worked

It wasn't running with the old motor, and my buudy I bought it from probably never did any thing to it, not much for preventative maint. don't know how it ran on old engine O2 sensor is in the exhaust pipe right? Same one is still in there I haven't replaced it yet I didn't install the engine and engine runs really good otherwise I replaced the plugs (NGK), air,fuel,PCV, oil and filter. Cap and rotor looked good did not replace yet. replaced fuel filter.

My 94 PF with the new/used JDM engine smells like it's running rich, I haven't checked the mixture with the computer yet but have no codes, No idea how old the O2 sensor is and I know I should change it. Question, will the O2 sensor throw a code when it is wore out or only if their is a problem with the electrical? What most likely would cause engine to run rich? Would the O2 sensor be top on the list? I was also thinking one of the injectors may be leaking fuel as when I first start the truck it kind of stumbles, was thinking an injector may be dumping extra fuel causing it to stumble upon start up, what do you think? Either problem (O2 or injector) would cause less than our normal stellar MPG right? Thanks all.

Put gas in above the 3/4 mark, drove 160 miles and watched the gas gauge go below a 1/4 !!

Thanks, I'll check it out later when I get home.

That's why I swapped to the hardbody headlights, later on I'll replace the sealed beams with the Hella headlights and use the H4 bulbs

I didn't notice any blue coating on my bulbs, have to pull one and check it.

yes, my PF is stock, tires are 31's, should have seen how much clearance there was with the bald tires! LOL

No blue tint on the Ultra's the newer ZKE silverstars have the blue tint, my bulbs are clear, I read all that before buying the Ultra's.

Yeah, you don't need rear brakes anyway not like our PF's are race cars or anything !!

Nice!!, I've seen worse, my wife's friend told me her explorer was loosing brake fluid so I had her bring it by so I could check it out, pulled the tire and found the brake pads wore so much they fell completely out and she had started to grind down the caliper as she continued to drive the truck for a few days before calling me!!1

Sorry I went into so much detail, was not aware of your back ground, just covering all the bases so to speak, I can't see how running a wire from the battery directly to the headlight bulb would have less voltage showing than going thru the stock setup, baffling me as well. I will say without doing any electrical mods I installed a pair of those Silverstar Ultra bulbs in my Sentra and they made a big difference, nice thing about my Sentra (1990) is it has glass lenses so no yellowing, can't recall are the stock PF headlights glass? I swapped mine out to the hardbody style and have normal sealed beam headlights for now and they are a lot brighter than the stock PF one's were.

No, I didn't look up new moldings, they are not that important to me I just saw the molding that goes around the rear side windows was longer than what is on my PF so I bought them, I guess they tend to shrink over time and get shorter. I bought the molding that is shaped like an "L", nice thing was the old molding I took out had the same end as the top piece so I cut the old ones to fit the top and now there are no gaps. For your speakers easiest thing to do would be to make a spacer out of wood, or buy a pair to put between your speakers and the door, the door panel should still fit over the speakers fine. What speakers did you try to put in the door anyway? I haven't done this in a long time but it worked today, on the way home from the junkyard I called Discount Tire to see what they would charge me to take the bald tire off the wheel I just bought, kid told me $20 !! I said ok, thanks and hung up!! So I took the tire and laid it under the front of my PF in front of the pass. wheel, placed my nice new F-550 bottle jack on top of the tire near the edge of the wheel, pumped the jack up until the top was under the frame just forward of the idler arm and jacked it up until it popped the tire off the bead of the wheel, flipped it over and did the other side, 1,2,3, no problem. Than using a couple pry bars was able to get the tire off the wheel. nice, no more Le mans tire LOL: Is the number stamped inside the wheel the date it was made? Mine has some Japanese figures and than says something like 91.18.10?

Yes to balance the tire, usually factory wheels that have the outer lip like the PF wheels will be balanced with weights on the inside and outside lip because you get a better balance, a lot of people especially with pretty aftermarket wheels don't want to see the ugly wheel weights clipped on the outer edge of the wheel so they will have the tires balanced either with clip on weights on the inner lip or the common stick on weights that are installed on the inside of the wheel closest to the front lip as they can get them. I have also seen wheels balanced with stick on weights installed close to the front and close to the inside edge. Myself, personally on these factory wheels am more concerned with getting a better balance than how they look. If you care to read it here is a good explanation on the different methods of balancing a tire: http://www.leadfreewheels.org/101.shtml My new 31's don't rub on anything, so far, I haven't gone off road yet. I was just wondering if the rear springs may be sagging as the rear looks lower than the front. When I had the alignment done today I told the guy not to lower the front but if it needed to be raised to go ahead, it turned out the pass. front was low so he adjusted it to match the drivers side. Hard to get the truck level on the driveway compared to a level alignment rack.

He's not that young and he also told me he used to have a 4 door PF, so he should know.

Alignment shop owner told me today I have a lot of play in my steering wheel, he said the tie rod ends and idler look fine that he thinks the play is in the gear box. My steering wheel does have play in it and I don't see anything moving under the front end so, what do you think about the gear box causing play?? I haven't heard of this as being a common problem before??

:tongue: :tongue:

Now that I have the new 31's on my PF they look like they are a pretty tight fit in the rear fenders, I don't know how the 31's are supposed to look as the tires I had were pretty shot and the only other time I ever had 31's was on my 87 Hardbody and we know the Hardbody sits higher on the frame than the Pathfinder, so take a look at this pic and tell me if this looks about right, also where is a good place to measure the height in the rear so I can compare it to someone else who has 31's on a stock height PF? Thanks Dr. side rear:

Today, had alignment done, went to junkyard picked up some rear window moldings, a grab handle (to replace the one I stole from my PF to use in my sentra) and a lego wheel to use as my spare, 2 junkyards and it was the only wheel I found and it was already off the truck good thing as all I brought in with me was a small screwdriver. Junkyard lego wheel and bald tire after cleaning, wheel is slightly white as the Purple power made it look dull: Not too bad for $20 with the tax and core charge !!

How did you hook the relays to the battery? Where did you mount the relays? There should definitely be the same or even more voltage at the headlight using a relay. Did you check the voltage going into the relay and out of it? The whole purpose of using relays is to cut down the distance the electric needs to flow from the battery to the lights, this applies pretty much to anything you use a relay for, especially with aftermarket lights, in the "old" days aftermarket lights only came with a switch, a very heavy duty switch I may add usually a 20 or more amp rated switch and when the lights were hooked up, power had to go from the battery to the switch in the cab than back out to the lights, a big waste of voltage. Newer lights and this headlight mod using a relay is designed so the power goes the shortest distance from the battery to the lights, in this case of the headlights, (sorry if this is how you did this I'm just saying how I would do it and how it should be done), Anyway, The relays should be mounted as close to the battery as you can, run a heavy wire, with a fuse, from the positive on the battery to the "30" tab on each relay, than I would run the same gauge wire from the output of the relays, the # 87 position to one terminal on the headlight, I would than run a wire from that wire across to the other headlight, The ground wire should be the same size as the positive wire you use. The thing with relays is the trigger wire, the wire that turns the relay on can be very small as it only carries small amperage, which when aftermarket companies started including relays in their light kits the switches were able to become smaller and a lot less amp rated. The trigger wire would be the stock headlight wire for the low beam and for the second relay the high beam. Another thing people doing this mod can do is to purchase a double relay (2 relays in one), some use a common power in terminal for both relays some do not, Hella and if they are still available Dick Cepek make double relays. Let me know how you did yours,

Sorry, meant to say one of the holes lines up but I still would put a second screw in if I had to extend the cross bars.

Do you mean the cross bars? If so yes, I don't have the bars mounted yet but I removed the center mount to see how it was attached and after seeing how it was attached I tried the mount positioned the way I have it in that picture. All I will need to do is install a riv-nut (nutsert) and re-attach the mount. The way I have the middle mount allows me to move the side rails further out closer to the roof body line and away from the sunroof, and the center mount won't hang over the edge. I also found that if I take the end off the crossbar I can make them wider by using the outer screw hole on the cross bar with the outer hole on the cross bar end. It has been so long since I was mocking them up I'm not sure of everything. Was having problems mocking it up myself as every time I moved one side rail the other one moved too. Need someone to give me a hand with them one day.

Throttle cable should be like this by the way:

WOW, that was pretty bad !!