ahardb0dy

The shocks on my 94 still work really well. What I did to test them is this, press the button down on the comfort side and hold it for a few seconds, than open the rear hatch and press down on the floor, it should move up and down pretty easily, now press on the sport side of the switch for a few seconds, now press down on the floor in the rear, if the shocks are working you shouldn't be able to move the truck as easily as you did the first time. Second way I checked mine is to do this, press on switch comfort side same as before, now standing on one side of the truck press against the top of the truck trying to rock it from the side, again it should move easily, now press on the sport end of the switch and try to rock the truck again, once again if the shocks are working you shouldn't be able to rock the truck as easily.

Years ago and not sure if they still sell it, someone (can't recall brand name) used to sell a tool box designed to install in the bed of pickups that had a mounting frame that you would attach to the bed, than you would position the tool box over it and inside the box there were 4 metal rods you turned to lock it down to the base. May be something to look into as you could have it securely mounted but than remove it if/when you needed more space. found one, this one is metal, think they used to sell a plastic one (I had one way back), and this metal one: http://www.ruralking.com/delta-steel-portable-chest-with.html?utm_medium=google&utm_source=cse&cvsfa=1908&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=303032343332303034

Have any pics of the console? I tried one in the junkyard and it looked like more work than I wanted to do.

I think a 10" wide wheel is pushing it for a 10.50, it will make the sidewalls balloon out, usually stay with a 7" like came stock with the 31's or go to an 8" wide wheel

took the scale to my screen room scale would not read just the wheel situps?? I don't think so!! But I'm working on it, was actually close to 300 for a while, trying to cut down dinner to one small serving, thanks for caring

The one behind the drivers headlight (AIV) that looks like a round canister and actually if I recall correctly has a filter in it should not cause the engine to idle high. I removed all that stuff in the 87 hardbody I had and it ran fine, I believe it was connected to a metal tube that ran up the frame rail from the cat converter and also tied into the port on the drivers side exhaust manifold also. The one coming off the TB I will have to look in the manual again, I'm sure someone will tell you what it is for before I have a chance to do that, So when you start the engine does it have a high idle and it never comes down? It could be the thermo element is bad, The thermo element contains a wax element inside and is tied into coolant lines, it is designed to push a plunger up against the TB linkage, when cold the wax is solid pushing the TB linkage cam so the idle will be high, as the engine warms up the wax melts causing the plunger to withdraw and letting the idle drop. There is a procedure in the FSM to measure the amount of stroke in the plunger rod to see if it is good or not, but you can usually look at it and tell if it is moving. Was just thinking, where do you live? have any junkyards around you? you could check out some trucks at the junkyard to see if you can tell where those lines connect to, sometimes it's easier than trying to read the service manual.

I'll have to add Warn is pretty good for supporting their hubs, I bought a pair from a junkyard truck and needed a few parts, I e-mailed Warn and they responded they would send them right out no charge AND I told them I wasn't the original purchaser that I pulled them from a junkyard truck !! That's damn special right there !!

I weighed the stock lego wheel, The wheel and myself - 312.8 lbs. , myself alone 290 lbs. stock Lego wheel no valve stem, clean 22.8 lbs. using a bathroom digital scale.

Weigh one of yours, and I'll weigh the lego wheel I have sitting here and we'll compare

I'll see if I can get out there today, have to install an amp in my car and we have a birthday party going on here today, I want to check the mixture ratio on the ECU as well. Thanks

If you have any hose companies where you live they can either repair the line if it is metal or make you a new one, The metal line on my sentra had a hole in it from the clutch cable rubbing on it, they soldered in a new piece for about $30

I like it, wish I knew how to weld

I plan on mounting mine using riv nuts or nut serts, a little silicone on the inserts before putting the bolts in should prevent any leaks

your right it is a 28" diameter, oh well time to look for a 31", Would have to be a new tire as a worn 31" would be a different diameter also Don't think I can donate the tire, Discount Tire told me they can't even touch a tire more than 10 years old and even if the tire is brand new it could have defects from age that you can't see inside, I figured this tire would still be good it's not like it's been sitting out in the sun dry rotting or anything. Thanks

Keep in mind if you use electric gauges the senders are small, if you use a mechanical gauge the senders are a lot bigger. On my sentra for the oil pressure I removed the stock sender and used an adapter in it's place I am running autometer 2 5/8" mechanical gauges. If you do the remote oil filter mount some of them have 2 extra ports you can use one of them to install the oil pressure sender. Not sure for water temp, and I know this doesn't apply to yours but on my sentra the water outlet came pre-tapped on Japanese engines for the sender, so on mine I drilled the area and tapped it for again the mechanical gauge sender, the outlet even had a circle showing where it would have been drilled and tapped.

Mine is an "SE" and it has the dual digital odometer, I would think the owners manual should explain what all the symbols have, I don't have one to check but I'm sure someone on here does.

Didn't the pathfinders that came with 31's come with a matching spare? I also need a tire cover if anyone has an extra one laying around.

I've been trying to sell the dakota wheel/tire for about 5 years, can't even give the damn thing away. I'm surprised it's a brand new 15 x 8 aluminum wheel and brand new Goodyear Eagle LS tire, the tire even has the sticker showing where to line it up with the valve stem.

The size I looked up said 29.1 and the 31" falken says 30.5, 1.4 difference, Was just looking into this as I have this brand new tire just sitting here.

The tire I was thinking about using is a full size tire, it's just a hair smaller, it's a 255/65/15 and I am running 31's, I bought a lego wheel this past Monday at junkyard and I have this tire sitting here on a Dakota Aluminum wheel, both brand new never been on the road so I was thinking of using it as a spare. But wanted to check into the size difference first. The dakota tire is mounted on an 8" wide wheel and it wouldn't work on the steel spare Nissan wheel so that is why I picked up the lego wheel. I can't find the size specs for the 255/65/15 since no one seems to make that size anymore so I looked up a 255/65/16 which should be the same diameter.

is this the one you are asking about?

Wanted to know how much of a difference is ok to run a spare tire compared to the tires on the PF? I know on road it shouldn't matter but when in 4wd it would be more critical. Thanks

The Mobil 1 synthetic grease is pink, thought you might like that !! LOL

My PF had the power antenna but it was missing when I bought the truck, I ordered a replacement fixed antenna from Crutchfield and cut the round hole to a rectangle to make the antenna fit, it left a slight gap along one edge that I filled in for now with black silicone, not the prettiest but it works