ahardb0dy

Nope... I have the sun roof... and it made for an interesting install...working on that part of my website now... LOL do you not realize that the Xterra is a WD22, born after the WD21? I know I know just giving you a hard time... Mine has the sunroof too, that's why I will be flipping the center mount so I can move the rails further out away from the sunroof, pic's below with the rail sitting on the roof:

With no body lift it's harder to remove of course, the first time I removed mine I was able to get it out from the top, I actually pulled on the inner fender with my hands and got it to move enough to get it up between the inner fender and the exhaust manifold. I was told it will come right out from the front if you unbolt the idler arm (3 bolts and nuts), I did that the second time I took it out and although I was told it "will come right out" I had to fight with it and the tranny lines but finally got it out. Installing the new one took 10 seconds dropping it in from the top.

Bosch wipers are usually all I ever use, they are pretty good

another non sunroof xterra rack conversion? One day I'll get mine on, minus the xterra sticker, LOL

So the adapter you made uses the pass side stock plug to feed to the relays to "trigger" the new relays which than sends power out to the new plugs right?

ok, will do

Today had 4 new Falken rocky Mountain tires installed, 31/10.50's

there was a thread on here one time about jacks that's where I learned about it

If you don't want to trace that wire down you can just run a wire from the working high beam across to the other one and be done, at least you could do this until you trace out the problem.

I have a nice F-550 bottle jack, no idea what it is rated and I won't say where I got it either !! I would check out harbor freight for an inexpensive floor jack, I have the stock jack, the jack mentioned above and a Sears floor jack that I bought in 93 and still works fine but I only use the floor jack. That one that has the bottle jack with the built in jack stand is pretty cool, from Tractor supply for $30 link below: http://www.tractorsupply.com/powerbuilt-reg-3-ton-jack-amp-jack-stand-1160455

Mats ?? I'd be happy if I had some carpet!!

You can crank the stock bars, the aftermarket bars tend to hold the amount of lift longer and they are also slightly stiffer.

no idea, they were on the truck when I bought it, that tire was worn real bad on the inside from my buddy not having the torsion bars set equally and than driving it like that for a long time.

Well my daughter has been using my PF lately as her car registration expired and she has to wait for income tax before she can register it so tonight she borrowed the PF to go to the airport to pick up someone and on the way home the drivers rear tire blew out. The tire was the one that had really bad inside wear and I thought that that would be where it blew out but I was wrong and def not prepared for what I saw when I got the truck home!! Pics below: looks just like the firestone I had on my Sentra when it blew out! Thankfully no one got hurt.

"JGC coils" are coil springs out of a Jeep Grand Cherokee, usually taken from a junk yard vehicle. 31's came stock on most pathfinders so you shouldn't need to crank the torsion bars all the way up to fit them, unless you are using an aftermarket wheel with different back spacing than the stock wheels or a wider wheel than stock. How much space do you have between the bottom of the upper control arm and the rubber bump stops? If you have the bars cranked all the way and the upper control arm is sitting on the bump stop than the truck is going to ride very rough with no downward suspension travel. Can you post a pic? Here is my 94 PF with 31's on the stock wheels after I re-indexed the torsion bars, with around 1/2" clearance between the upper control arm (UCA) and the bump stop:

Try to do a search, the whole process is listed and has been written about on here already.

No rear disc brakes in hardbody's

Not only are the wheels lighter, being a narrower width with less offset will be easier on your front end components. Of course just running the 33's add stress but think the 8" wide wheels would be less. The tires still look good on the 8's.

All the Sony head units I have had let you turn off the beep completely.

In my 94 PF I have an old school (made in 94) Alpine CD player, ( I installed a new Alpine in a friends truck and he gave it to me) with an Alpine EQ going to a 4 channel Alpine amplifier I had laying around, front door speakers are 6.5" Alpine's and I have a 12" Pyle Pro sub in the back in a sealed box. My 90 Sentra has all the good stuff in it.

You could build a false floor and get a pair of those slim subs, I know you probably want to use what you have but sometimes it isn't possible. I have a single 12" in mine and was thinking of building a false floor/storage box that my amp would mount under (probably with a pusher/pull fan setup) and I was thinking of cutting an opening the size of the box behind the pass. seat that the sub box would sit in, that way only part of the box would stick up and the false floor could still be used to carry what ever I need too. Another way to mount your subs depending on how big of an enclosure they require would be to mold a box out of fiberglass to mount mostly below the side panels, possibly only sticking past the front of the panel as little as is necessary. The subs require a certain volume but nothing says the enclosure needs to be a square, possibly stretch out each enclosure to be longer and thinner.

My 94 with unknown origin tranny shifts fine EXCEPT the one two shift, sometimes I have to take my foot off the gas slightly and than it will shift, think replacing the fluid and filter will fix this? I know it can't help. Think my buddy got this tranny from a junkyard truck and he never does any preventative maint.

Today, made the connector for the oil pressure switch tighter so it won't come off on it's own, put the new oil filter on, de-oiled everything from yesterdays oil leak, put the idler arm back on, topped off the oil and started the truck and let it run for a few to charge the battery.

Rockauto.com has the headlights for $36 or $39 use the discount code for an additional 5% off.

Well I decided to purchase a cheap rebuilt starter since I can't afford the Beck Arnley one I want, pulled the starter (I got it out from the front disconnecting the idler arm, still wasn't that easy, I kept repeating to myself what I've read on here " It will come right out the front" !! BS !!!) and went to auto parts store, had mine tested first, of course it passed, had them test the new rebuilt to make sure it worked, it did and def spun quicker. Back home got the new one in (from the top pretty easy) and hooked up, oil sender wire back on, put the filter back on, tried to start the truck and it started, was letting it run for a moment when I started to hear this weird spraying type noise, looked under the truck to find oil everywhere, shut the truck down and pulled the oil filter to find I must have made a hole in it when I was removing it !!!! So back to the store tomorrow for a new filter and some purple power so I can wash all the oil off everything!! Done for today...