ahardb0dy

Your pretty much asking for the impossible tire, A tire that's "good in the mud" is generally not going to be that good on the road. I don't have any experience with the new BFG MT's but if the old style was still available I would definitely recommend them. Your asking for a tire that is good in various conditions, but still want one that is good as a daily driver. In order to meet what you are after you need to go with an all terrain, hence the name all terrain, good in all terrains but not great really in any specific one of them. The BFG At is a great tire. A buddy of mine has over 60K on a set of 33's and they still look like new.

Looked at mine sitting in the driveway with a full tank of gas, cause it needs a starter!!

I used to have to press the set button really hard to get mine to work until I cleaned the contacts, now it works the way it is supposed to

Nice truck, for a Toyota !! LOL, will never get used to the shape of those rear fenders, Enjoy it !!

I would check at the starter relay to make sure you have power going to it, coming into it when you turn the key to start, and if those 2 are ok, make sure power is coming out of the relay.

The horn does not effect the cruise at all, it's just an indicator to tell if the contacts between the back of the steering wheel and the contact on the steering column are dirty,corroded,etc. If the horn does not work or works when the wheel is turned to a certain position (like mine was doing when I first bought it), than that would indicate a problem with the contacts. Does your horn only seem to work when the steering wheel is in a certain position? If so I would pull the wheel and clean the contacts.

wasn't there a video on here recently of an underwater pathfinder in a pool or something?

Nope, only "chips" on that site

the sub fuel gauge if I recall would show the fuel from a 1/4 down to empty, the sub fuel gauge broke down the 1/4 of fuel over a broader range on the gauge. I had it in my 87 Hardbody

I'm planning on getting the BFG AT's when I finally get new tires, never been a huge fan of Goodyear.

The web site is funny, every model has it's own part number, like they are all different "chips", the home page says right on it that this product has 2 wires that connect to the IAT sensor = resistor as previously mentioned !!

If as suggested the horn only works intermittently than I would pull the steering wheel and clean the contacts on the backside of it, they have a type of grease on the copper but over time a lot of stuff can get on them. My cruise didn't work when I bought my pf and it turned out to be the vacuum hose was not connected on the vacuum pump.

Factory gaskets are the best, I wouldn't use anything else. I just bought 2 for my sentra (same part number as the Pathfinder) $20-22 (can't recall for sure) for a pair.

That truck must have taken quite a whack to bend the U-bolt!! Not to mention how the bed is tweaked. Also noticed in your pics that the one overload leaf spring looks like it is missing the tapered end. The U-bolt holds the leaf spring to the rear axle.

I've seen one's like this before, I would offer the suggestion of a simple length of safety wire between the handle and the body to prevent un wanted movement. No matter how secure the actuator is wouldn't hurt to be a little more secure.

I personally wouldn't bother swapping from a 60 or 70 amp to a 90, not worth the effort for 20 amps. When I do mine I'll be looking for the 125 amp alt from the Maxima. I put the 110 amp in my 90 sentra and all I had to do was make a one bracket and swap the plug. Here is a chart I made comparing a few different alternators:

I had no problems getting a socket on the bolts or getting the bolts out, Now that I pulled the inner fender out about 1/2" the starter goes right in from the top. The hardest part for me was holding the starter in place while trying to get the top bolt started, I ended up getting the lower bolt started than the top one went right in. Tonight I checked the relay I installed (starter mod) and it is working when turning the key to start, I can feel and hear the relay. I also took the wire going to the starter solenoid off the relay and touched it directly to the positive terminal and still got nothing, only after tapping the solenoid lightly while holding the key to start did the engine turn over. I guess the solenoid could be bad but pulling the starter out just to replace the solenoid might as well replace the whole starter.

Well after pulling the starter and cleaning it, reinstalling it, replacing the main cable, both battery terminals and the starter working fine since Oct 9th, last Tuesday I drove the PF to work to start standby, I noticed it cranked a little slow but it started fine, Standby ended Monday morning and I am off Monday so today I took my work truck back and would be driving my PF home after work so I went and made sure the truck would start before work, it again cranked slow but started, I shut it off and tried again and it started. After work pf started again cranking slow. Stopped on the way home for gas and it started cranking slow still. Left the gas station and stopped at supermarket, was in the store 10 minutes when I got back to the PF went to start it and got NOTHING, no click, nothing. A lady that works in the supermarket was walking by and I asked if she could help me, I had her hold the key to crank as I lightly tapped the starter, it started right up. So It may be new starter time but I want to try this which I found before, check out the link below. Another question, do the automatic trans PF's have both an inhibitor and starter relay? If so where is the starter relay as I do not see it in the FSM electrical section? link: http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/BA-TBS0113.pdf

Not the shower, on boats !! The first few self level.

How about these, spill proof: and a SS version of the folding one:

Years ago I inquired about a new gear ratio for my hardbody, can't recall if I spoke to Jim Connor or someone at Nismo but I was told with 33's switching to a 5.14 ratio would bring the RPM's back to what they would be with the stock 31's, I told the guy I was running 35's and he didn't have an answer for that.

I was just looking the clinomater up on Nissan FAST for the Japanese markets, they have different part numbers for the housing based on years, did they switch to the rounded dash the same year over there as they did on the US models?

If you have a FSM than this is in the body section if not check this out, you may be able to use this to tell if the frame is tweaked: Couldn't tell from your pics if the truck is a regular or king cab so I'm including both diagrams, measurements are in mm: 4WD regular cab: 4wd King cab:

can you post side view pics from each side?

I know the hardbody's had a problem with the rear cab mounts sagging (check the body line between the cab and the bed and you will see) I put a washer between the body mount and the cab floor to make it even again. As to your leaning problem, it may just be the leaf springs on one side are more wore out than the other, does it appear to sit level looking from the front? if so probably a leaf spring problem. If you don't want to get new springs I would get a pair from a donor junk yard truck. if you were to add a add a leaf to each side it may just lift it and still be uneven.