ahardb0dy

Sorry, I slipped up. I did go read the whole tire review thread after asking this, my bad!

Panhard bar drop down bracket??

How do you like the BFG KO's? I had 35's in the pre KO series and they were decent, than went to mud terrains and never bought an AT tire again.

No, we have a surplus electronics store nearby (Orlando) and I happened to find them there a while back. Last Friday when I picked up the 4 gauge wire they had some 8 gauge terminals like these below that I picked up 4 red and 4 black for $1 each, crutchfield sells similar ones for $30 a pair!! going to order a negative terminal to match from Partsexpress today, they have them for about the best price.

Thanks, I guess they should all sound about the same

today, reinstalled the starter and battery, replaced the positive wire from the battery to the solenoid, added a ground from the starter bolt to the frame, installed aftermarket positive battery terminal, installed new Purolator pure one oil filter and Mobil one 10W30 oil, see pics in my starter question thread.

SUCCESS !!! PF LIVES !!! Rain let up today so I went out and got started, I was able to get the starter back in it's location from the top, I pulled the inner fender out slightly, just had to put it in rear first than once under the exhaust manifold flipped it around. Hardest part was getting the 2 starter bolts in. Didn't have anyone to assist and holding the starter in place while trying to get a bolt started was kind of frustrating. Had to take a few seconds just to relax (two times !! LOL), finally was able to get the lower bolt started than the top bolt went right in. I than removed the lower bolt because I ran a 4 gauge ground from the lower bolt to the tranny cross member. I wanted to add the ground just in case the stock ground was a problem. I also removed the stock positive cable from the battery terminal to the starter, the wire loom was all brittle so I removed it and replaced it with new. Found this when removing the positive cable, may have been part of the reason the starter was acting up, 1/2 of the wire isn't even in the terminal and the terminal seems loose on the rest of the wire, sorry about the quality of the pics: I replaced the positive battery terminal with this Streetwires terminal I had ordered for my car, the part of the stock terminal where the 2 plugs connect to it was broken so I had the broken piece sandwiched between the part of the stock terminal where it tightened around the battery post. I cut the plugs off the 5 wires and twisted all the wires together and used a large blue butt connector between the 5 wires and a piece of 8 gauge wire I had than the other end I used a Streetwires terminal which goes onto the new battery terminal, I covered the butt connector in heat shrink: This is the new positive battery terminal with the wire I just spoke of: I ran the new 4 gauge power cable (car audio cable), to the solenoid and this is how it now looks on the battery end, I put wire loom over this cable to, ran out of tie wraps so have to pick some up tomorrow just to make sure the wire stays out of the way of everything: large wire on right is 4 gauge going to solenoid, smaller wire on the left is going to the stock wires that were on the battery, large blue wire goes to Amp and is known as "cheap 4 gauge" as it is the diameter of 4 gauge outside but the actual wire is only 8 gauge, it was a cheap kit so I bought it: small red wire coming out the back of the battery terminal goes to the relay for the starter mod. Terminal came with the clear plastic cover. another view: Alternator is definitely working: Here is a video I took showing how the starter sounds now when cranking, disregard the video I just used video to record the sound: forgot, the rubber boot that covered the stud that the starter motor wire goes to ripped so I wrapped the stud and wire with that stretchable tape that looks like electrical tape. Now I need to get the negative battery terminal so they match!!

didn't do anything today, rained all day, supposed to tomorrow also, need to put the starter back in, wish I had a garage !!

Well nothing done today rained all day, still is, supposed to rain all day tomorrow too, sucks, picked up some 4 gauge power wire and a few terminal ends, had to re-paint the center section of the starter as all the black paint came off when I cleaned it, looks good still working fine on my work bench hopefully will still work when re-installed.

Drag link? You mean the idler arm? Was thinking of doing that when I was trying to get it out the first time, thanks

Thanks, I read the write up. That starter will be going back in from the top if I have to pull the inner fender out a 1/2 inch to get it back in !! I'm going to run a new 4 gauge from the battery to the solenoid, stopped at the local stereo store yesterday after work, rushed all the way to make it there before they closed and when we got there found out they moved !! I was pissed!!

I tried to get the starter out thru the front near the center link but it was getting hung up on something, maybe the tranny lines, so I ended up taking it out between the exhaust manifold and the inner fender. Going to try Saturday to get it back in the same way. I know when I did it on my 87 hardbody (which the body sits higher than the PF and it had a 3" bodylift which made things easier), I had to after unbolting the starter, flip it over so the gear end was facing forward than I was able to get the starter out. A lot less room in the stock PF. Got 3 cuts on my hands and arm from removing it I expect more re-installing it !!

When we did the body lift in my old hardbody we did as you said but we doubled the brackets just to make the bumper a little stronger/stiffer.

My 94 PF was doing the click click thing when I tried starting it, that was over a year ago and than I did the relay mod and it was fine ever since up until last week. I had the battery tested and they said it was ok, than pulled the starter, cleaned it and took it to be tested and they said it was ok too. Since than I have it hooked to the battery in my shed and it has worked every time I tried it. Going to re-install it this Saturday hopefully it will still work when I put it back in. As far as the relay mod it is pretty easy, what you do is pick up a standard aftermarket relay, run a wire from the positive battery terminal to the relay at terminal #30, than run a wire from the relay terminal #87 to the solenoid plug on the starter, than extend the stock wire that you took off the solenoid plug and connect it to the relay at terminal #86 , lastly run a ground wire ( I usually will just use a short piece of wire from the mounting screw for the relay to the ground at terminal #85 , if the relay has a terminal 87A just ignore it for this application, that's it. Now when you go to start the truck the original solenoid wire will trigger the new relay which will than send power down to the solenoid. The green wire hanging possibly could go to the oil pressure sender??

I guess she figured I didn't have enough cuts on my hands!! LOL, Hopefully starter will be able to slip between inner fender and exhaust manifold, right now I'm willing to pull the fender out just to get it thru that space ! Find out Saturday, going to pick up a new length of Audio power cable to run between the battery terminal and the solenoid.

here are pics of starters for a 95 and a 97: 95: front: rear: side: 97: front: side:

Another good tip when swapping in a larger alternator, especially if the amperage is over 100 is to run a new 4 Gauge wire from the new alternator to the battery, you don't need to remove the stock wire as the power/current will take the path of least resistance, I was told this by Wrangler Power Products when I installed a 160 Amp Alternator in my hardbody that I bought from them.

Ok, today's update, Pulled the battery and took it to auto parts store to be tested, of course the tester said the battery was fine. Got home and decided to pull the starter !! (how do you put in curse words here !!), drained oil, filter was a bit-h to get off had to use pliers, exhaust manifold is just enough in the way so the filter wrench doesn't want to get a good grip of the filter. Got filter off, starter unbolted easily, went to remove thick battery cable from starter solenoid and problems began, the inside nut was turning with the outer one. Decided to remove the solenoid to give myself more access to the solenoid, removed the solenoid from the starter, spring fell out got that safe and on the side. Still couldn't get that nut off so the stud with the wire coming out of the solenoid was nice and shiny under the rubber boot so I removed that nut and than had enough slack in the battery cable to pull the solenoid outside the inner fender, finally was able to get the other nut off, so the solenoid joined with the spring on the side and out of the way. (many more curse words inserted here !!), on to removing the starter, ha ha, fun, finally was able to squeeze starter up between the exhaust manifold and the hoses on the inner frame. Took starter and solenoid into my shed and cleaned everything, reassembled solenoid to starter, started to drive to auto parts store to have starter tested and was thinking something was missing from inside the solenoid, turned around so I could check the FSM, sure enough the part that engages the lever that moves the bendix out was missing!!, back under the truck, where the heck did it go, 5 minutes later found it sitting on top of the tranny lines, back to the shed, removed the solenoid again, installed the missing part, re-assembled the solenoid to the starter, off to the auto parts store. Had them test the starter and now for the big shocker of the day, wait for it wait for it, OF COURSE THE STARTER TESTED FINE !!!!! So now I'm telling the guy in the store "you know when I put this back in it won't work right?" So got back home figured I'll hook the starter up to the battery which was still out of the truck, maybe the test machine had more voltage I thought, hooked the starter up to the battery out of the PF and it STILL WORKS FINE !!! Guess cleaning everything helped!! So now I guess on Saturday I'll get pissed off again and put it back in, going to run a new piece of 4 gauge (maybe 2 gauge) wire from the battery to the starter using a Street wires battery terminal I have lying around, that was my day, how was yours???

Fan control only working on certain speeds is the blower resistor which is mounted in the duct behind the glove box, good idea to remove it and vacuum out what ever may be in there. As for the vin # starting with JN8 I believe all pathfinders were made in Japan, send me the Vin # in a PM and I'll look it up if you would like.

I can't find the receipt for the battery so tomorrow I'm going to call the store to see if they can look it up, if they will replace the battery I'm going to try that first. If it still cranks slow or gets stuck I'll pull the starter and take it apart and clean everything. I did that on my sentra's starter and it has been fine ever since.

From what I read on another forum where there was a big discussion about this, as far as with the Chevy's they say that heat soak is a problem and the Ford solenoid (which is more a relay than a solenoid), uses less power to open than does the original solenoid. I also saw this mod done with power from the battery going to the input of the ford solenoid than power going to the starter from the hot side of the ford solenoid, than they connect a smaller wire from the output of the ford solenoid to the starter. This way the starter always has voltage to it and the ford solenoid (relay) when triggered sends power to the stock solenoid on the starter to engage it allowing the vehicle to start. Guess it's another one of those never ending discussions. ANYWAY, about an hour ago, I hooked my jumper cables up to the battery in the PF from my sentra and when I started the PF it definitely cranked faster, so would that now indicate a problem with the battery? The battery is almost 2 years old, purchased 09-11, THANKS ALL !!

I guess the wire coming out of the ford solenoid would go to the stud labeled "out to starter" in the pic below with a jumper to the small wire in the plug on the nissan solenoid, that way the starter and solenoid trigger get power directly from the ford solenoid bypassing the stock solenoid, right?

Thanks for the reply, after thinking about what you said and trying to picture it I found this diagram, I edited it to eliminate stuff that doesn't apply to the Nissan: look about how your were describing??

I'm going to try jumping it with my car to see if the extra voltage makes it crank any faster. I'll have to call the local auto parts store to see if the can load test the battery, if not I'll have to borrow the tester from the mechanic at work Tuesday.

Went out before and tried to start the truck, it cranked slow but started, saw some corrosion on the negative battery cable, took the wire out of the clamp, cut about 1/2 inch of the copper off, removed 1/2" of the insulation, cleaned the terminal real good, cleaned the inside of the terminal and the battery post, re-assembled, tried starting and it still is doing the same thing, cranks real slow but will start. Positive cable is clean and tight. Checked output of alternator, 14.20 when running, 13.90 with AC and headlights on. With engine off battery has about 13 volts. when cranking drops down to about 10.89 than starts and comes back up to 14 volts. Would the slow cranking be an indication the starter is going bad?? Thanks