ahardb0dy

took the drivers side door lock out, re-keyed it, got frustrated trying to put the chrome face cap on with out the proper tool and almost beat the hell out of it before deciding to call it a night, also put another lock in the door (not connected just to fill the hole for tonight), stopping at lock smith tomorrow on way home to see if they have any of the replacement face caps. Checked the alt voltage also earlier.

What does it mean if the light in the auto/power switch starts blinking?

I had a similar problem with my Sentra, although your relay may be good you need to make sure power is getting to the relay, in my case there was no power going to the relay, instead of going thru the whole harness I ran a power wire from the battery thru a fuse to the relay, everything now functions as it is supposed to except I am taking power straight from the battery. No problems with this going on 8 years. This may not be your problem though, just a suggestion on what to check.

I think he said thru the ODB2

The new alt you just put in is not putting anything out?? You can try running a new wire from the alt to the battery, not the large wire the smaller one, the "sense" wire the one that tells the alt when to turn on, should be the white wire, I had to do that when I had the aftermarket (160 amp Wrangler) alt in my old hardbody. Just checked my Alternator output at the battery, my PF has sat for about a week without being started, battery voltage before starting with my digital multimeter was 12.40 volts, after starting and when idling high it went up to 13.87 volts, when the idle dropped to normal it settled at 13.80 Volts, I have a battery designed for a full sized Ford truck in my PF. Was just thinking if the alt you have tested good at the store and the battery also tested good than has to be a wiring issue, I would still check the wire I mentioned above. I did a search last night on Google and I also saw people with same problem and some of their problems ended up being: bad connections at the battery, bad connection at the starter, bad sense wire.

Not 100% sure of this but don't factory fog lights only work when the low beams are on? If so have you tried the fog lights with the low beams on?

For the price and ease of obtaining the replacement part and because the one on rockauto would be new, I would go with the new part over pulling a used part.

I'll check mine in a little while so you have something to compare yours too (as to voltage)

thanks

I first thought he was asking about the heater core hoses

Ok update, I got the ignition apart and re-keyed that I got from the car at the junkyard, swapped it with mine today works perfect, also re-keyed the trunk lock and 2 of the door locks I also got from junkyard and installed them in the car, so now the whole car is keyed to accept my pathfinder key. Next is to rekey 2 more door locks and the rear hatch for the pathfinder so I will have one key that works all the locks on the PF. Than as you guys suggested I will have one key that fits both of my Nissans. As far as taking the ignition apart with the 2 brass pins, if it took me 2 minutes it was a long time. I posted pics in the off topic section under "anatomy of a Nissan ignition lock"

the usual problem with exhaust bolts and nuts is over time they start to rust and the heads get smaller making it hard to get the correct size wrench or socket on the nut or bolt head. Sometimes if the head or nut is not too far rusted it is easier to try and tighten the fastener causing the bolt to break than it is to remove the nut from the bolt. Get yourself a big breaker bar and or a short piece of pipe and if you can fit it over the nut an impact socket, the impact socket is thicker and less likely to crack compared to a normal chrome socket, I bet the bolt will break easier than it would be to remove the nut. You could also, at the junkyard if you have access to one is use a cordless sawzall and just cut thru the bolt right where the gasket is. or ask someone to pull the "Y" pipe for you and ship it to you where are you located by the way? Just looked on rockauto.com, they seem to have the "Y" pipe for $34, if that is the pipe you need that would be the best option, I wouldn't even bother with trying to get a used part at that price.

Some more info for you, this is when I was comparing the maxima alternators to my stock Sentra one, the pathfinder and the sentra alternators are close enough in specs for this to still apply, this is comparing output at different RPM's, had to upload this as a picture so the info stayed in the correct places:

and if it stops leaking water in that area onto the ground than it's time to pull up the carpet on the pass. side and check for water as the drain tube would probably be clogged

I swapped a 110 amp maxima alternator into my 90 Sentra, they also used a 125 amp version it will say on the tag, I think it would be the same one for the pathfinder, you have to change the pulley as Nunya has said, not sure if the plug is a direct fit on the PF harness, on my Sentra I had to change the plug but even if you have to it's only 3 wires and real easy to figure out which wire goes where by looking at the FSM's for both vehicles. Here is some info for you: stock 95 pathfinder alternator: AMP 70; PULLEY V1; MFR HI; VOLT 12; ROT CW; PLUG 300; CLK 4:00; REG I/R what this means: 70 amp, pulley v belt 1 groove, manufacturer Hitachi, 12 volt, rotation clockwise, plug style 300, clock position 4:00 refers to the location of the plug in connector when viewing the alternator from the rear with the mounting tab pointing straight up, internal regulator 95 thru 99 Maxima 110 amp & 98 & 99 Infiniti I30 AMP 110; PULLEY S6; MFR HI; VOLT 12; ROT CW; PLUG 306; CLK 1:30; REG I/R what this means: 110 amp, 6 groove pulley, manufacturer Hitachi, 12 volt, rotation clockwise, plug style 306, clock position 1:30 refers to the location of the plug in connector when viewing the alternator from the rear with the mounting tab pointing straight up, regulator = internal 95 thru 97 Maxima 125 amp & 96 & 97 Infiniti I30 AMP 125; PULLEY S6; MFR HI; VOLT 12; ROT CW; PLUG 305; CLK 1:30; REG I/R 93 thru 98 Quest/Mercury Villager 110 amp: AMP 110; PULLEY S5; MFR MI; VOLT 12; ROT CW; PLUG 300; CLK 5:00; REG I/R 95 thru 97 Altima is 80 amp

Just looked in the FSM for a 98 and see a air breather on the transfer case but do not see anything on the tranny

X2 on a vent hose, you said it was leaking, what is it leaking? ex. oil,water,fuel??

I was going to suggest checking the output of the alternator at the stud on the alternator with a multimeter but you already found out it is bad. should be pretty straight forward to removing it, loosen the idler pulley lock down nut, in the center of the idler pulley, loosen the adjuster bolt on the drivers side, remove the belt, remove 2 or 3 bolts and it should be out.

not sure of the specs butrockauto.com doesn't have a listing for the twin turbo oil pump for some reason, but I just looked in Nissan Fast and the TT oil pump was only used on the TT engine

that's where the water comes from under your truck when you have the AC on

I would have someone try to crank it than if it it won't wiggle the negative cable or try to turn the negative terminal, if it cranks you have found your problem

FSM or nothing for me !!

I just finished taking pics of my ignition lock for the Sentra and will be posting them soon under " Anatomy of a Nissan ignition lock" check them out

I understand, sometimes it's not possible to do all the maintenance that a vehicle requires when you first purchase it. When we bought the Infiniti Q45 we used to have the guys on the NICO forum were telling me "if you spend about $1400 on the car it will run like new" I was like we just paid $4500 for the car not looking or able to spend $1500 more on it at one time !! LOL, we do what we can when we can

I always recommend replacing all the vacuum lines on vehicles that are as old as ours, it doesn't take long, cost much and is easy to do one at a time, you all know rubber gets brittle and starts to crack especially at the ends over time.