ahardb0dy

just want to add about the riv-nuts or nut serts, there are 2 different types,at least that I have, one is one piece and when it compresses in the sheet metal they seem to hold better, I've had some that have a knurled surface also, the other type is actually a 2 piece insert where the bottom pulls into the top, I have had problems with these spinning. When I had the hardbody I used the riv nuts to install my bed stiffeners and they were on so good (1/4-20 bolts) I swear they felt like you could tow off of them. these are the 2 types I have:

$109 from rockauto

My 87 hardbody had a leak in the gas tank way back, actually was a hole as I went 4 wheeling one day and the short Rancho add a leaf that I had in the rear spring pack broke in half, the rear half must have hit the tank when it fell out, I used that gas tank putty to fix the hole and never had a problem with it again.

I found this: http://www.finishlinewheels.com/CHEVY/TAHOE/2008/S-08069U45/ even looked on e-bay and all the wheels I found for sale are silver, maybe the cop one's get painted??

The only part we swapped when I had the JDM engine put in my 94 was the throttle body as the JDM engine didn't have cruise, but mine came out of a 4x4

drove mine to work where it will sit until 5:00 next Tuesday, I am on call this week. Will be driving the F-550 back and forth for the week.

I just got done helping someone on another forum with a lock problem, it turned out to be a broken wire between the timer and the master window switch on the drivers door, he ran a new power wire to the timer and it fixed it all.

Won't the intercoolers be picking up hot under hood air where you have them mounted?

Today I finished my low buck rear cargo cover, I bought 2 wooden broom type handles with the wooden thread on one end, than cut them to fit the width of the cargo area, drilled a hole on each side and threaded the one end in the hole, the other end of the wooden handle was bigger than the drill bit I used (unibit) so I made it smaller using my Dremel, than just popped the other end into the other hole, for a cover right now I am using a black curtain, slipped the one end over the broom handle and the back side for now is just draped over the other wooden rod. I just wanted something to hide my amp and sub. I originally used sch 40 pvc but I guess the heat got to it as both pipes bowed.

Really awesome work you are doing there !! Just watched your 2 videos, that's some exhaust leak sounds like open manifolds !! I'm sure you will get it taken care of, like to see video after you do!! Keep up the excellent work !!

you are correct, that's what I meant to say

My rubber gasket under the shifter was all torn as well when I bought it but it never got hot enough for anything to catch on fire. doesn't feel the greatest on your leg when your wearing shorts but not hot enough to burn anything. I redid mine using a piece of rubber with a slit in the middle for the shifter than cut a second piece that covers the slit and moves with the shifter, No more heat in the cab.

ever hear the stock horn?? 2 air horns, actually they were in my Hardbody and decided one day it would be funny to put them in the Sentra, been there ever since, they may make it over to the pathfinder one day, I'll see.

The air compressors that came in the GM cars for the leveling suspension systems is what I use in my 90 Sentra to fill my 5 gallon air tank for my air horns, I know Ford uses them also but I have never used the Ford version. The first one I ever used was out of my wife's 85 Olds Tornado. The GM one's are basically the same except for a few differences, the older compressors had a plug that controls the vent feature the newer ones the wires are hardwired, this part doesn't make any difference for my application. I have had a few of them apart and I have seen different piston sizes in various ones also. I modify the head of the compressor by drilling and tapping the metal so I can use a compression fitting for the tubing, tube is from Mack and is 1/4" air brake tubing. In my setup I use 2 relays to control the compressor, because I use a check valve after the compressor so no air can leak back, I use the vent feature of the compressor to relieve pressure between the compressor and the check valve so 100 PSI isn't trying to work it's way back into the compressor. So I have 2 switches to activate the compressor, first switch sends power to the second relay than depending on if the second switch is up or down I get vent (switch up), compressor pumping (switch down), I don't use a pressure switch because at the time I didn't have one, so this way I turn the compressor on, switch down, than when it reaches 100 PSI on the gauge I flip the switch up to vent, than turn the first switch off killing power to everything, sounds complicated and probably is but it works. Check valve is actually designed for a pressure washer but has worked for years now and is easy to take apart and clean or lube. Haven't tried to run any air tools don't think the small compressor could keep the tank full but could probably fill a tire or two if I had too, Pics below: Compressor sitting next to spare tire: air tank, check valve and old solenoid in trunk: air gauge in dash, gauge is now facing upright, autometer: Just to complete my post the air horns, wouldn't expect this in a Sentra now would you, LOL: small horns: big horn, "tee'd together with little horns": brackets mounting big horn are the spacers from a body lift kit for my old Hardbody that were supposed to be put between the bed and the frame, never throw anything away !! LOL

That's what I suggested he do, try cleaning out the old grease and re-greasing them, sent him a Pm to join over here, have to see what he does.

I told him and 2 other people to join the forum here, I can't make them. Told them there is more activity here in one day than on the other forum in a week. Just trying to help the guy out, I'll emphasis to join here again. Thanks

I fixed mine in a similar but more civilized way, removed the 3 screws, unplugged the wire connector and tossed it in my shed !! No more problem !!! "satisfying crunch sound." I know that sound !!! That's the sound my gas powered leaf blower made over and over when it pissed me off and I took it from above my head and slammed it into the concrete over and over !! That felt good !! Than my wife is looking out the screen door at me and says "feel better??" I said yes I do, time to go buy a new one !! LOL

sometimes it is necessary to blend the paint to match, even if the paint is the right paint code it may not match. I think blending needs to be done more on a older vehicle as the factory paint does fade from the sun and stuff. Your PF is a 99.5 so it is still 12 years old, some colors fade more than others. A decent shop will be able to mix up the paint to come really close to the color on the truck. But it would be harder to match if your thinking of painting it your self. Where on your truck are the rust spots? If they are really low you may be able to paint the whole side up to the top of the rust area, like some people do with that bed liner material.

Trying to help someone on another forum and want to get opinions from the experts on here, guy has a 87 pathfinder and says when he shifts it into 4 hi or low it doesn't seem like it is engaging, I told him the front wheel normally has to rotate one complete turn for the auto hub to engage, he has told me he pulled the PF up against a van and only the rear tires are spinning, I suggested he take the hubs apart to remove the old grease and to lightly re-grease them to see if they will engage. He said he has had the front end off the ground and one cv axle will turn slowly and the other turns but kind of erratically, and the front driveshaft is turning. I didn't think the front differential had any real problems, he said when he bought the truck it was in 4 hi but I suspect it wasn't engaged at the front wheels. Any ideas or suggestions on what he should look at? Any definitive way to test the front differential to see if it is indeed shot?? Thanks all.

I have never filled the tank in mine 2 times in a row to be able to calculate the MPG !!!

wire shorted out? Maybe

remove the blower resistor and check inside, leaves and stuff tend to accumulate there. Do you feel air coming out of any of the vents? ex. floor, top of dash?

HEY !! That's my song !! according to my wife ! LOL

when ever buying a used vehicle of any kind it is always a good idea to do all the normal maintenance, especially the timing belt. Better safe than sorry. Even if you have records from a previous owner, unless you actually know the person do you want to trust their records? better to pay for a timing belt than a whole motor.

If it's just surface rust you can sand it down to the metal and apply a rust preventive product, I just picked up a bottle of OSPHO from Ace HArdware, a quart is like $15, http://www.ospho.com/ I used some on my Sentra, the areas that had rust after the OSPHO turned a black color but you have to be careful because areas that I used it near paint it took the paint off and than that area rusted. Years ago I used a spray I think it was called extend from permatex on my 87 Hardbody, on the 87 I had a rust area on the front edge of the bed, I used a wire wheel in a drill and took all the rust off to the metal sprayed the extend on and it turned the metal black, but the nice part was the rust never spread after that. Their are other products for rust that have good reviews, POR is one of them but POR is more of a coating that covers the metal so no rust will get to it and it has been said that treating a piece of metal with POR, the metal should be treated on both sides. But I have no personal experience with POR.