ahardb0dy

hopefully it will work as good for you as it did for me. Where in NY are you? one other tip, if you need a new starter DO NOT get a local rebuilt starter, either get a Beck Arnley or OEM starter, my bad starter experience with my 87 Hardbody was due to the first 2 local rebuild starters failing with in ONE week!! The 3rd starter a Beck Arnley one was still working when I got rid of the truck years later.

today I took the drivers side window switch out to take some pictures for another PF owner having a problem with his locks not locking from another forum, told him to join here, actually told 3 people to join here today.

You definitely get quicker after the first time removing/re-installing the starter, when I replaced mine in my old 87 hardbody the first time took like an hour to get it out but after the 3rd time it was like 10 minutes. The starter mod using the relay worked for mine, starts every time since I did that.

I think I still have the one out of my 87 hardbody in storage! It's brand new it was probably only in the truck for about a week !!

or "pink ladies" !! LOL

before replacing it, what is it doing? The starter in my 94 every once in a while would just click when I tried to start it, I did the starter wire mod posted on here and it has been fine ever since. I would check in the garage section under the "how to" section you may find the info you are looking for there. As to removing the starter, it's not to hard to unbolt if you have a long extension, I do remember the first time replacing the starter in my 87 Hardbody and it took a long time to figure out how to actually get it out after un bolting it, I do remember I had to pull the starter forward and up, twist it and than bring it out thru the fender well gear side first.

No problem, I even checked in an old price book I have from when I worked in the 4x4 shop, the book is from 1994 and has all the jobber prices and it didn't have a listing for Pro Comp at all. I only have experience with the original style arms that JCR sold, they were fine in my Hardbody. JCR came out with the tubular arms after I had already had their original modified arms for a couple years. There was another company I believe even older than JCR that made a- arms for the 720 series Nissan pickups, think it was Boondocker, they used a ball joint spacer but it wasn't welded to the A- arm. they also made these really cool fiberglass front fenders, if you've seen the older 720 pickup trucks you know the fender openings were very small, the Boondocker fenders actually included a piece of metal that let you cut the floor to make the fender opening larger, than you had the new metal part welded in. For the rear they had fender flares that were installed after cutting the fender opening. The shop I worked in installed this kit on a king cab 720, we also swapped a 4.3 Chevy V6 into the truck, it was nice.

I notice a lot of members here including myself will post pictures of actual parts, that were taken when making a specific repair, Maybe creating A specific thread with actual pics with a short description would be a good and helpful idea??

well, I guess the explorer sticker on the arm was added as I just got off the phone with Explorer Pro Comp and they said they never made a suspension lift for the older Nissan's. The black A-arm in the previous picture, the tubular one says RC (rough country??), why does it appear narrower than the rest? were some of the 2 WD's using a narrower A-arm? Or is it just the picture making it look narrower?

they look like the JCR arms to me.

I saw a set of the Dynapro mt's on a hummer down here one day and I like how they look. I wish BFG still made the older style mud terrains as that is the tire I always use to have and still would if they made them, the new BFG mt's I do not like although I am sure they are a good tire. Originally I had BFG AT's until one of the guys I used to work with in the 4x4 shop back home told me how good the BFG MT's were in the soft sand we had on our beaches, never thought a MT would be good in the soft sand but I bought a set and they were excellent. Someone on here has the Dynapro Mt's on their PF.

Was looking at the original pictures again, I see the arm has an Explorer sticker on it, was just trying to remember, did Explorer Pro Comp ever make suspension lifts for the Nissan's??

Four wheeler magazine just did a comparison test on mud terrain tires and the clear winner surprisingly to them was the Hankook Dynapro MT. The tires in the test were: The Tires (in alphabetical order) BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar Hankook Dynapro MT Maxxis M8060 Trepador Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Nitto Trail Grappler M/T Pit Bull Rocker LT Pro Comp Xtreme Mud Terrain Interco Super Swamper TrXus Yokohama Geolandar M/T you can read the entire article here: http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/wheels/129_1104_massive_mud_tire_shootout_intro/index.html

that's why we are here !

hockey pucks ok seriously found these on e-bay $3 smaller 3" block: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZONE-OFFROAD-BODY-LIFT-BLOCK-PUCK-3-TALL-x-2-WIDE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb49d29c9QQitemZ200598694345QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories or the larger 3" block: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZONE-OFFROAD-BODY-LIFT-BLOCK-PUCK-3-TALL-x-3-WIDE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb49d2343QQitemZ200598692675QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Frozenrotors was saying the door switch activates the dome light not the buzzer, I think the buzzer was one of the first things I took out as well !!

Jim Wolf Technology has some bigger injectors but don't know how much they cost

this should be in the Garage or model section, but did you try pushing down on the shifter to get it into 4 low?

I forgot I was having trouble with the pass. side window, than on the way home from work my friend that rides with me rolled the window down but when he went to roll it up it wouldn't do anything, so I figured no big deal I'll just pull the panel quick when we got back to my house, (now dark outside!!) and if I had to I was going to run power from the battery straight to the motor, well the window still wouldn't go up but I did roll it down further, so I figured I would unbolt the glass from the regulator and slide the glass up and secure it until I had a chance to look at it, but the window was so far down now the bolts that hold the glass to the regulator were behind the metal of the door !! So I ended up un bolting the regulator, lifting the window up, unbolting the glass and used wooden wedges to shim the window in the up position. Than when I pulled the regulator out a few days later, I figured I would take the motor apart, so I did, and as I said I just wiped the inside of the case and the copper windings with a rag and put it back together and it worked !! Still working too !! Good Luck with yours.

Sorry for being off topic slightly, I traded these 15 x 8's to a friend's dad for his 88 fore runner: and got his 15 x 10's here: I've had quite a few wheel and tire combination's on the Hardbody, starting with the factory legos, than the Centerlines with 35's, the bat wheels pictured with a matching but in red wheel for the spare (they were out of black), than the 15 x 10's, a set of 15 x 10 steel outlaw 2 style black centers chrome outers, and just as many tires, Firestone ATX (stock tire), BFG At's. numerous BFG mt's, Kelly safari's (sucked), Yokohama mud diggers (very soft), Bridgestone Mud Duelers, think that was about it, LOL, one of my buddies owned a tire shop, helped to have friends in the business !! Ok done reminiscing, back on topic, post pics when you get the wheels mounted

I have a long 1/2" drive Matco breaker bar, second one as I broke the first one, but another thing I use is a 3/4" ratchet with a 3/4 x 1/2 adapter, the ratchet part isn't going to let go on this 3/4" monster, I also cover the handle with a section of rubber hose. Another trick, not sure if it has been covered already is to put a piece of pipe insulation over your floor jack handle, when ever I have to use my jack and there is another car close by, I just slide the insulation so that it extends past the end of the handle that way if I happen to hit the car next to me no damage.

Are the one's in your pic 8" wide? here is the Centerline version of the outlaw 2, 15 x 8 with the factory BS:

Outlaw 1 were the solid ones right? like these:

Jim Connor Racing was who made all the Nissan Truck parts before anyone else, AC bought the remaining inventory and designs from them, here is a page from the JCR catalog when they first introduced the tubular a-arms, they did compensate for the ball joint angle as their previous UCA's were reinforced stock arms with a welded in ball joint spacer ( I had a pair in my 87 Hardbody): original style: