ahardb0dy

Did you touch the torsion bars when you replaced the axle? If not than the height should not have changed. If you do have to adjust the bars, you can just loosen the top lock nut and tighten the bottom bolt, you may have to hold the larger top nut while tightning the bottom bolt, providing the adjuster has room to move further upwards, if it doesn't than you would have to re-index the bars by removing them completely (one at a time) and pulling the adjuster off the rear of the bar, turning it slightly so you have more room when you re-tighten the bolts.

actuallly the alignment seems pretty good....NOW !! I have not had it aligned since I bought it but the previous owner (one of my coworkers) had a neighbor put an engine and tranny in it fo him, guess the guy didn't know how to set the torsion bars and my buddy is the type that doesn't fix anything until it breaks so he just drove the way it was, the torsion bars were so far off that the pass side fender, with out the flare you could barely get 2 fingers between the tire and the bottom of the fender lip, I took both bars out and re-indexed them, and than put the flares back on and could get my whole hand between the tire and the flare, that's how low the pass. side front was. the way the PF was before I bought it: after re-indexing the bars:

no I haven't, from how it felt I was hit I thought it would be worse, but your right it isn't that bad and at least the dent is on the end cap, and the one on the body is hard to see with the black paint.

I knew exactly what you were asking about as soon as I read what you wrote, last time I had the door panel off test fitting speakers I figured I would take a bunch of pics for reference purposes (such as your question), I beleive you will either have to get a whole regulator used from a junkyard or new from say Rockauto.com

I miss my old truck, should have never traded it in, had so much into it and so many aftermarket parts, my sunvisor the screws stripped out and I ended up putting riv-nuts in and using 1/4-20 allen head bolts inside red aluminum cups, see if this link works have a bunch of pics here: http://tinypic.com/useralbum.php?ua=hcbRwnvasfPSuo6iuOEHWQ%3D%3D

yeah would have been a lot worse as I said if I was driving my sentra,

thanks, first thing my wife asked me was "did you get out and kick his ass??"

Many many years ago when the bright red paint on my 87 Hardbody was starting to get faded and dull, I took it to a detail shop my job used to use, I wanted to see if they could high speed buff the paint back to like new so I removed that small "SE" decal from the drivers door so we could see the difference, what a difference there was too !! Eventually I pulled off all the decals than I had a permanent stripe on both sides from where the stripe used to be. I'll run over to my storage unit Saturday and see if I have both sides of the large SE decal, or just one side, either way if you would like it you can have it. As for my grille I commented in my other new thread. 2 pics of my grille you like so much in my old truck: Man I miss that truck, I was actually thinking of selling my sentra and buying another hardbody, than I could use my power rear vertical sliding window that is wasting away in storage again!!

Build me some bumpers and come on down and I will give you the grille (and more)

Don't know if that decal your talking about ( the SE one) comes as one side or the pair, but I have one brand new in the plastic bag from when I had my fender repainted years ago, the only piece missing is the small fender section. It may only be one side though not sure, I have it in my "hardbody" tote in storage

I checked behind the bumper end with my hand and I think I may be able to bang the dent out a little at least until I can replace the end, it's not as bad as I thought it was but still, I just painted the bumpers not too long ago. Would have been better if it was a 4 wheeling bruise!! the dent in the body I may be able to push out thru the tail light opening will look at it more on the weekend.

I beleive on the "lego" wheels the back spacing is like 3.75" as was said using a spacer would move the tire/wheel assembly out which would cause it to be closer to the fender when turning

I think your referring to the 2 white plastic parts that glue to the glass and is attached to the window regulator by the 2 10mm bolts, the metal part that the plastic parts bolt too is the part that moves up and down on the regulator track, they tend to wear and cause the window to not go up all the way, ( Like mine is doing now) and as far as I can find out that metal part (with plastic guides on each side of the regulator channel is not replaceable you would need to replace the whole regulator. If you are looking for the plastic parts that glue onto the window you may be able to find them. Side note if your window glass comes un-glued from the plastic parts you can clean the glass and the plastic "track" the glass sits in and reattach them to the glass using urethane. I did it on my sentra and it is still holding up fine. what part are you referring to in my pic below: "A" or "B", ?

I would still recommend going to a sign shop and having them made, for the reasons I posted previously.

Was on my way home this afternoon from work, my buddy was right in front of me, come to section of the road where the ramp coming off a toll road merges into road we were on, traffic moves and my buddy pulls up and I proceed to follow him, than I look to my right and there is a Ford Excursion ( or expedition) coming right at me, this guy wasn't even going to stop. So I was already halfway out in front of him. Than the customary swearing back and forth starts with me trying to point out that he had a yield sign. So traffic moves again and I pull into the turning lane right in front of this guy (and his wife), we're still yelling at each other and than the idiot decides to turn right and pull in the middle lane, and proceeds to drive right into the corner of my truck !! thought he was pulling up next to me to curse me out some more but he kept going and pulled up to the traffic light. I didn't freak out like I would have a few years I figured his truck was a lot newer and nicer than mine and if he wasn't concerned oh well, I make my turn and get on the turnpike than pull over into the grass to get out and see what was damaged, nothing too bad, a dent in the corner part of the bumper, which pushed the bumper into the body causing a small dent. I thought being the ford was so big he wouldn't have had any damage but my buddy looked at his truck as he went by and told me he had a good sized dent in his bumper!! Got home took a few pics than cleaned the bumper off and pulled the bumper out a little. Related question, if I pick up a new bumper end, are the studs that secure it to the center part of the bumper on the end piece or on the center part?? couple pics below kind of hard to see, don't think the pathfinder did too bad vs the full size ford, if I had been driving my lowered sentra he probably would have taken out the tail light, corner of the quarter panel and the trunk !!

http://www.onlineconversion.com/

plus you can get the euro style Hella headlights with the upgraded bulbs

the estimate to do the timing belt was for someone I knew, he probably would have done it for me for even less, hell he swapped the tranny in my sentra & replaced the clutch cable for $80, his wife even told me that was the least amount he's ever charged anyone, so I gave them $100, I always try to give him a tip or assist him in anyway I can to make his job easier. I also pay on time, unlike some people he deals with. He was bitching about this guy last time I was there, his wife was telling him about some guy that needed work done but had no money he was like" and this is my problem how?? LOL

NICE , I ran 33's and 35's on the red Hardbody with the auto hubs and never had any problems, I swapped the autos on my 94 PF just for the reason I found a set in the JY and I always liked the when they're locked they're locked part.

OR the Payments !! LOL

"keep in mind they need to be experienced b/c if they screw it up you're out of $200 and possibly an engine..." that's a good statement, I would never just go to the "lowest" price shop because the price is the lowest, luckily for me the guy I use for big jobs knows what he is doing and he is quick, I've never found anything wrong with anything he has done on my vehicles.

you probably don't want to spend this much for the stock lego wheels but here is a set I just found in Georgia, no idea if it is close to you or not: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180602679417&viewitem= here's a listing for one for $22 to get you started, also in Georgia: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-87-88-89-90-91-92-Nissan-4WD-Alloy-Rim-Wheel-62147-/330520345060?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf48c39e4 I'll give you my 4 legos with the 31's when I lift my PF if that time ever comes !! LOL

"Even if it mean's the moment you drive it off the lot is begins depreciating instantly and you're stuck paying ridiculous payments for the next 4-5 years for an overpriced hunk of metal that will need to constantly be brought back to the dealership for Flash updates. Not too mention the check engine light likes to come on for just about everything from forgetting to tighten your gas cap to complete and total engine failure with the inability to see or understand what a large majority of the codes are unless you bring it to a Authorized Toyota Dealership to plug into their diagnostics. I'd personally never buy any vehicle new since the depreciation is so nasty. If I wanted new I'd personally go with newer. like 2 years old and save about a 3rd my money. Although I refuse to buy new since every vehicle build in the last 10 years is so heavily reliant on computers to run everything and anything that its more of a pain in the ass to fix then anything else." Why don't you tell him how you really feel??? LOL Nice truck...for a Toyota !! "Pathy's were new from dealerships at one point." Yeah but they are Nissans !!

"150 me" Someone get him a few hamburgers before he blows away !!! LOL

that's why I mentioned about recommended vs the widest tire, people tend to do strange things, I wouldn't be running a 39/17.50 Mickey Thompson tire on a 8" wide wheel but I'm sure someone would, back in the day we used to mount 18/44/16.5 tires on 9.75" wide wheels because that was about the largest width commonly available, did it work? yes would the tire have been better on a wider wheel? of course. the problem as we know in putting a really wide tire on a narrow wheel is how it pulls the sidewalls in and makes the tread not really sit flat. The opposite is also true, running say a 31/10.50 on a 12" wide wheel where the sidewall is so far out it's just begging to be punctured by something.