ahardb0dy

I saw a 90ish pathfinder today while working that had the SE decal on the rear but had leather seats, was the SE trim available with leather seats as an option?

Your welcomne !! Anytime !!, Usually when you reset a head unit, depending on if it has one, the loudness control would be turned off, I always leave mine on, I like it on personally

thanks, need any other help or have any questions post them or send me a PM, I'm on everyday, I check in when I get up at 4:00 and when I get home after 6:00, sometimes in the middle of the day if I can get a WiFi signal during work.

I had the Hella conversion lights, not sure if they were the euro ones or not, I used 60/100 watt bulbs. They had 80/100 but I thought a 80 watt low beam was a little much for on road driving. as for a wiring schematic it's fairly easy using relays ( the correct way), basically the wire that is feeding your existing headlights becomes the trigger wire for the relay, so on the relay you normally have 4 terminals, some have 5 and are known as a change over relay, the 4 terminals are numbered and the numbers are universal so every relay uses the same numbers, the numbers are: 30 - 12 Volt in 87 - 12 volt out 87A - 12 volt out ( the change over part, when the relay is off 87A has power, when the relay is on (triggered) 87 has power and 87A is off) hence the changeover name 85 - ground 86 - trigger wire ( wire from switch or existing headlight wire) So I would recommend mounting the relay as close to the battery as possible, 1. run a fused wire from the positive on the battery to terminal #30 2. connect a ground from terminal #85 to a good ground, I usually will just loop the ground back up to the relay mounting screw 3. connect a wire from terminal 87 and run it to the headlight furthest from the relay, than you can use a scotchlok connector near the close headlight to tap off of this wire to feed the close headlight 4. connect the existing headlight wire ( the wire that has 12 volts when you turn the headlights on) to terminal # 86 these directions would have to be repeated for the high beam, they do make double relays also that have one terminal #30 but 2 of all the other numbers. there are probably other ways to do this still using relays this is just one way, others will have their own opinions on how to wire the 2 headlights to the one terminal on the relay, or you could just buy the headlight wiring kit.

Thanks !! And that was at 4:30 in the morning !! LOL

the 20-200Hz is a frequency range, typically the human ear can hear a range from 20 to 20K, 20 being the low end (Bass) and 20K the high end (highs), setting the equalizer flat will not damage the speakers as flat means the bass, mids and treble are all set at their middle or "0" settings, if you were to adjust the EQ to the highest point for each setting it would probably sound like crap but I still don't think it would do damage. I wouldn't worry about all the Db numbers, just put a Cd in or tune to a song on the radio you know and adjust the bass,mids and treble to where it sounds good and you like it. The same for the other settings, time correction, delay, etc, you can keep the volume low and experiment with what each function does. Turn each function on one at a time, adjust it's settings, there is no "right" setting it is all how you like how it sounds. The equalizer if you adjust the mids to far up which will emphasize the vocal part of what ever you are listening too, if you go too high the sound will sound funny/bad. If the bass is set to high it may sound to boomy or muffled, you just need to play with the EQ and adjust it to how you like it. Also realize that different sources (CD,Radio) and different types of music will probably need to be adjusted differently. Leave all the fancy functions off in the beginning, the time correction,etc. just adjust the EQ and than play with the other settings later. There are no set settings to ",make it sound good" as the same radio in two different vehicles thru different speakers will sound different, you mention you have a sub, so I assume you have at least one amp, the other thing that can make the music sound distorted is if the gain on the amp is turned too far up, so as the volume on the radio is increased toward the upper end you may hear distortion due to the amp gain being turned up to far. If you still can't figure this out, take your truck to a dealer that sells your brand of radio, I'm sure they would be glad to assist you.

nope, and as to steering stops re-read the first post, thanks

I'm pretty sure your 90 PF uses a cable for the speedometer, (saw a 90 in the junkyard this past Saturday and it had a cable), the cable could be broke, on my 90 Sentra when I bought it the end that goes into the speedometer broke off, it was real easy to replace and cheap too about $30 I think and that was from the dealer !! But either end of your cable could be broke. I would pull the gauge cluster and see if the end of the cable is stuck in the back of the speedometer. The other possibility is the cable may not even be connected under the truck, on 4x4's it should screw into the side of the transfer case. Anyone please correct me if anything I have said is incorrect.

From the 94 FSM, tried posting this 10 minutes ago but was getting an error message "can't find server for npora..." anyway here is the info you requested:

No auto hubs anymore, I found a set of Warn manuals at the junk yard and they are on now.

Being your truck is a 93, even a stock replacement spring may raise the rear an inch, which may be about back to stock height.

the rod that comes off the lower control arm pic below:

sorry for not being more clear, Yes I was referring to on the same side of the wheel, the balancer we had in the shop I worked at had no cover, think it either fell off or they took it off as we used to balance 44's and larger tires and the big tires wouldn't clear the cover. So having no cover, while dangerous if anything was stuck in the tread made it easy to see how the tires spun. It's funny things you remember, I remember balancing a 44" tire one day and it was so bad I had to sit on the machine to keep it down, (it wasn't bolted to the floor either !!) and another time I balanced a 46" Firestone Turf and Field tire (Not DOT approved) on a custom made aluminum wheel and it took only 3 Oz's to zero out! Some 44's were so bad we would lay down 36 Oz's of stick on weights before we tried to balance the tire! Memories, miss having access to a tire machine and balancer anytime I need one!!

Are you referring to the compression rod bushings?

When I make a turn I hear clicking noises coming from the front of the truck (94 Pathfinder), I have checked everything on each side of the truck and do not see any play in anything, could this noise be the compression rod moving slightly possibly due to worn out bushings or the sleeve? I have pried on the compression rod and it doesn't move at all but was thinking today on the way home that I never checked the compression rod for forward and back movement. The noise I am asking about is not the steering stops, I hear this noise even when not making full lock turns. THANKS

as for the weights, if while balancing the machine calls for a 1 OZ weight say on the top of the wheel (while on the machine) than when spun again it calls for a .50 OZ weight directly across from the 1 OZ weight it would not be right to put the .50 OZ weight on, I would try (if I was doing the balancing) to remove the 1 Oz weight and put a .50 OZ weight in it's place. Wheels can be bent and not be "obviously" bent as well

Thanks for the reply, I asked about that a while ago. All these write ups about doing the body lift and using the hardbody shifter or bending/extending the pathfinder shifter raises a question. I had a hardbody with a 3" BL and we still had to heat it up and bend it in order to engage 4 low, is that because the hardbody sits higher on the frame? And is why it works in the pathfinder's?

Don't know if they are still available or not but after re-reading this thread wanted to add when I did the 3" body lift on my 87 Hardbody I used a kit from Trailmaster, the trailmaster body lift had aluminum body blocks and also included a longer steering shaft.

Sorry I'm late to the topic but I was going to mention, but you probably already know, that the front frame of the Toyota pickup where the bumper bolts up to is flat, the Toyota at least the 84-88 Toyota pickups bolt straight into the frame, unlike ours that mount to the sides. Looking good !

I put a K&N on my 94 pathfinder and was able to bend one end of the factory filter mount and attach it to a longer bolt that goes thru the filter adapter that I half made, but my mount goes down to the inner fender, different year trucks but you may be able to do something similar, not currently using the filter in the pic as it was very loud, now have a open element K&N but no pic of the filter I'm using now yet, pic below:

you may be able to wire a timer into the headlight circuit found this doing a google search: http://circuitzoo.com/2010/09/04/electronics/simple-car-headlight-timer-circuit-diagram maybe something like this: http://www.kussmaul.com/091-100-012.html

vibration felt thru the steering wheel usually indicates problem with the front, if you feel like the seat is shaking that usually indicates a problem with the rear tires/wheels If you have the tires re balanced try to see what the tire looks like when they spin it on the machine, ask if you can watch, you want to see how much side to side or up and down movement there is in the tire (or wheel), also very important if when they are done balancing the wheel/tire combo you find weights across from each other have them re-do it, you should never have weights directly across from each other as this means they are balancing against the weights. If the tire is not perfectly round sometimes they can dismount the tire and rotate it 180 degrees and re mount it. I mounted and balanced tires from low profile car tires up to 54" turf and field Firestones on custom made wheels for over 3 years

if you can hear it clicking most likely it is a gear related problem, my motor didn't do anything at all. Pathfinder uses a square drive that mates with the regulator but could be internal gearing problem see link below: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1059023

Had my drivers side door panel off today to test fit a speaker so I took a few pics showing various items, please feel free to move these if there is thread already started that these pics apply too, thanks Pic showing where window regulator attaches to the glass: pic showing where window regulator attaches to the door: inside of door panel showing clip locations (yes I know two are missing):

Had my door panel off today so I took some various pics, here is the door lock sensor for the drivers door on my 94 pathfinder in it's installed location: