ahardb0dy

My buddy that I bought my 94 from had 2wd fenders on it before I bought the truck. He has 2 low riders and was going to use the fenders from the 94 pathfinder on one of his 2wd's, the first pic shows the PF with a 2wd fender on it, second has the stock 4wd fender: click on the pics to getter a better view of each

all the steel wheels I've ever seen will use a tapered lug nut, the toyota wheels posted, I read the other night that they were available with both type of lugs, I would guess the older wheels use the lugs with the washers (known as "mag style" but the newer wheels probably just use the tapered lug nut. Most modern wheels use the tapered lug nuts as the manufacturers are moving away from the lug nut with the washers. You should be able to get lug nuts with the washers in the Nissan thread no problem. a few for example: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Wheel-Lug-Nut-Dorman_9100244-P_970_R|GRPWHELAMS_983142594___ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-7540080/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-73127/

thanks don't drink beer, will take pizza

do the toyota wheels have the tapered seat? or just a hole? If the wheels have just the hole than you need to use lug nuts with washers, and those lugs go inside the hole and you should be fine, if the toyota wheels have the tapered seat for the lug, 3/8 may not be enough but you could get longer studs

by the way the bulb for the switch I got from radio shack as someone here told me about it, it's a little smaller but works fine.

hardest part was getting the cables back in, rest was ok, after replacing the knock sensors (2) on the Infiniti Q45 we used to own (Major FUN JOB !!!) and removing the whole dash from my 90 sentra I'm not afraid to try to do anything:

ok, don't worry about looking up the gears, just wanted to confirm they were different, thanks

I guess there is a difference between a 4 cyl tranny and the V6 tranny since there are different part numbers for each of them. So will a 4cylinder tranny really not bolt up to a V6? If not what is different?

Can you take the drier back to where you bought it and see if it will screw onto a condenser that they may have in stock? or just exchange it for another drier, threads may be messed up on either the drier or the condenser. Do you have the old drier or condenser to try on either of the new parts? May be able to determine which part if any has bad/wrong threads.

I was checking mine the other day, 94 auto with 4.62 gears and worn out 31's and I believe it was 68-69 MPH at 3000 RPM with OD on

"Bolted it to the front" Did you mount it in place of the belt driven fan? I know there is no room in front of the radiator for hardly anything. PICS !

I was putting it off because I knew it was going to be a pain in the rear to do but, decided Sunday night that I was going to do it Monday so I did. Worked fine today!!

is it the latest model from Mac?? LOL

there is a sensor that clips onto the lock cylinder inside the door shown in my pic below: the sensor in the pic clips onto the lock cylinder than the other half is attached to the end of the lock cylinder so when you turn the key to unlock the door (or doors) the 2 halves line up causing the locks to unlock, the clip that holds the sensor to the lock cylinder break very easily, it's possible yours is broke and is now hanging inside the door so the doors won't unlock when using the key but still work normally using the unlock switch inside on my 94 when I go to unlock the doors with the key I have to turn the key to unlock, than turn it back and than to unlock a second time for all the locks to unlock. It may also be a problem with the door lock module and there is a topic on repairing that on here also

took the truck for a slow ride today where I live, not slowing for the speed bumps and didn't hear the noise at all. I think the 2 bolt heads on the rear trans mount where it attaches to the crossmember were hitting the top half of the mount causing the noise, as I said I inserted a piece of rubber between the 2 halves of the mount as a test, will pickup a new trans mount soon. thanks all for the help in trying to figure this out !!

On my 94 pathfinder when I had the AC on and moved the fan switch to setting 3 or 4 the AC would sometimes shut off, I could tell when the light in the AC switch would go out, I used to have to wedge a piece of plastic under the lever to get the AC to stay on. Today finally tackled the problem. First took the plastic surround off of the center console ( the part that surrounds the radio and HVAC controls),next removed the AC switch and the knobs on the HVAC levers, next removed the trim on the front of the HVAC controls, removed the 3 screws that hold the controls in, had to figure out how to remove the cables from the levers and discovered the rear of the levers are held in with 2 clips, spread the clips apart and pry up on the lever carefully with a flat screw driver, lift the lever off of it's pivot point, you can than twist the lever to unhook it from the cable. There are 2 cables on top and one on the bottom, after each lever is separated from each cable there is a small "C" clip that holds each cable sheath into it's plastic mount, just pull the clip out using a pair of needle nose pliers, once the clip is removed the cable can be pulled out of it's mount, be careful not to bend the cable or the metal part that is inside the sheath of the cable. Next pull the HVAC control forward and unplug the 2 connectors, one is a 6 terminal black plug and the other is a 2 terminal white plug (for the light), the HVAC control will still not come completely out as there is a metal wire clip on the bottom left that has to be removed, I removed the screw from where it mounts on the duct behind the HVAC controls but later found out you can spread the parallel wire apart to remove the HVAC controls. Once the control is disconnected take it somewhere where you can work on it on a table or something. Turn the control up side down and you will find 2 screws that hold the actual switch part together, remove the 2 screws, the cardboard cover that protects the wire terminals and set aside, remove the top of the plastic switch assembly and turn it over. You will see this: this pic was taken after I cleaned the contacts, did not take a before pic but just picture the copper dirty, lol I did not have metal polish so I used some Mothers pre cleaner on a polishing wheel on my dremel to clean and buff all the copper surfaces, after the copper contacts were clean I used some TV tuner spray cleaner to remove any residue of the Mothers pre-cleaner, than I pried up on the copper contact and removed this part: there is a spring under this contact as indicated in the above pic, clean the 3 tabs that help to locate the copper contact and stretch the spring slightly, re-install the copper contact you just removed making sure it can move freely up and down. the contact that controls turning the AC switch on and off can be seen here: (click on the pic to make reading the note easier) remove the small contact using needle nose pliers, there is a spring on the bottom, slightly stretch the spring than re-install the contact, re-assemble the switch, You could probably use some dielectric grease on the contacts but I did not,make sure to re-install the cardboard on top of the switch assembly before putting the screws back in take the switch assembly back out to the truck and plug the black plug back in and test it, it should now work perfectly, re-assemble in reverse order, NOTE: the 2 cables on top criss cross each other, meaning the cable coming from the pass; side goes to the lever on the left and the cable coming from the drivers side goes to the lever on the right. The cables can be a pain to get back in their holders, I used a needle nose pliers grabbing the cable sheath to pull it slightly and move it into position, once the cable sheath is in it's mount, hold it as far in as it will go, place the "C" clip back in it's groove and push it down using a flat screw driver or similar tool, once the sheath is secured you can re-connect the lever. I didn't intend this as a how to when I decided to post that I got my AC switch to work but figured I would write what I did to get it to work. Thanks

Not a major tip here or anything but just found out how to tighten the nets on the back of the front seats and wanted to share. The nets on the back of my seats were sagging, just found if you pry the top of the plastic out on the top (either side) slightly the elastic string just has a knot on the end that sits inside of the plastic, so pull the elastic tight and tie a new knot in the elastic string, cut off the excess and reset the knotted end inside the plastic. It won't stretch as far as it would if you replaced the elastic string all together but now the nets sit tight and aren't drooping anymore.

what's a snow brush?? LOL

I didn't think mine worked but it turned out the bulb in the switch was bad, easiest way to test them and notice a difference is to push down on the rear bumper, first put the switch in touring (some, like mine say comfort) and push down on the rear bumper it should be easy to move up and down, than put the switch in sport and do the same thing, if the shocks are working in sport you shouldn't be able to push the bumper down much if at all, you can also try rocking the truck from side to side in the 2 switch positions and should notice a difference.

here's a silvia SR20 DET in a hardbody done by the Nissan specialist's at JGY customs in Virginia: http://www.jgycustoms.com/Project%20Cars/97%20hard%20body.htm

I tried to pry the tranny up off the mount to slip a thick piece of rubber I had in between the 2 halves to see if this was the cause of the noise I'm hearing but couldn't get the tranny up high enough, so I had to bring the floor jack out than no problem. Took it for a long drive today but guess I was going to fast (just highway speeds) to hear anything, have to drive around town and listen to see if the noise stopped. Checked the strut rod bushings also today and no play in them. If the noise is gone will have to pick up a new mount. Next project is getting the AC to stay on when the fan is on 4, right now have to wedge something under the fan control lever to get the AC to come on, it's a pain in the butt, driving along thinking the AC is on than look at the dash and it's off!!

the problem I had with mine was the rubber seal on the plastic bottom part was leaking badly but the 2 I got from the junkyard solved that problem

94 pathfinder 4x4 rear tranny mount is shot, just wanted to ask if there were any tricks or tips to replacing it? Thanks, (did do a search)

not sure if it's the same in your 91 but in the FSM for my 94 it says on VG equipped trucks the ASCD control unit is mounted under the radio

I finally found a pair for the window but haven't found any good ones for the hatch, I too use the small vise grip method I think I saw on rockauto that they are fairly inexpensive