ahardb0dy

I have them in the 94 I bought, didn't think they worked cause the light in the switch was bad, but when I tried each setting and pushed down in the cargo area with the hatch open you can definitely see a difference, on sport you can't push the truck down at all !! on comfort (some say touring) you can push the body down, also noticeable if you push near the roof side to side

I had my 87 Hardbody with the TBI up to 105, got pulled over to no ticket !! but it was going down a big hill, automatic with 4.62 gears can't recall the tire size

my exhaust is fine other than the hanger right before the muffler the cat is close to the crossmember but it doesn't hit it

think I've read the switch it's near the hinges under the headliner but not 100% sure

this noise is happening more frequently, drove the pathfinder to work Thursday and Friday and noise is starting to drive me crazy!! Don't hear it at all while driving only when going really slow. Today went back under the truck to check the tranny mount as my buddy says it sounds like it's coming directly under the middle of the truck, I think the rear mount that bolts to the cross member and trans is shot, looks like the rubber is broken, going to pry up on it with a pry bar tomorrow and put a thick piece of rubber that I have in between to see if the noise goes away, will post results

I bought my 94 4x4 for $500 needing an engine which I got for $600 and another $600 to have it swapped in, I think that's too much for that truck also, I see them on craigslist local to me all the time with tranny issues but they can be found cheaper and mine has no rust either. I also wouldn't really rely on the owners word on when the timing belt was replaced unless they have receipts too show it. For the minimal expense on doing normal maintenance, what ever truck you may buy I always suggest replacing all the normal tune up, filter parts. You never know when that stuff was replaced before, ( unless you bought it from me and I give you all the receipts and my notepad files showing when everything was done!!) good luck with what ever vehicle you get and post some pics!!

I think anything wider than a 31/ 10.50 would be too wide on the factory steel wheel, it pulls the sidewalls in to far and makes the tire look funny, of course everyone has their own opinions, I would say if you plan to run a tire wider than 31/10.50's than you would be better to get a set of 8" wide wheels, 33/12.50's work fine on 8's as well as 10" wide wheels but the wider you go you have to pay attention to the wheels backspacing, if the backspacing is not the same as the factory wheel's backspacing the tire wheel combination will stick out too far and most likely will rub. The big question everyone always hears is " how big a tire can I run?" The answer is as big as you want, it all depends on what you want to to do to the vehicle to get the tires to fit, you could run 44's if you plan to take the fenders off and cut the hell out of all the sheet metal, not something most would do but it is possible. Make sure to post some pics when you are done, thanks

I doubled the filters once and installed longer studs but as you said just added noise and hot air

on my 94 it turned out to be the rubber hose from the vacuum actuator wasn't connected, left rear corner under the hood

if that pic you linked to is the actual picture than it has the hole for the switch

Both my doors have 2 clips for the screws not 3

are the white plastic brackets that the speaker is screwed to just to space the speaker out? On my 87 hardbody I had 6.5" speakers in the front doors and don't see how the doors on the PF's would be any different. I did have to watch the depth and use a thinner speaker but they worked fine.

You should never inflate your tires to the pressure on the sidewall first of all, if you look at the pressure rating on the tire it will say for example 35 psi AT a certain weight, if the tire says 35 psi at 4500 lbs you would take the 4500 times 4 to get 18,000 lbs, you know the truck doesn't weigh 18K lbs so you don't run them at 35 PSI, having worked in a 4 x 4 shop for a few years and mounting every size tire you could think of we always put about 28 psi in the tires going on any of the mini trucks and I always ran about 28 PSI in the tires on my Nissan. As for tires, Michelin is usually top, they are very straight tires, wear great ride great but you pay the most for that, BRG all terrains are a great tire also, they will go very high mileage if taken care of and rotated, a buddy of mine has a set of 33's on his Toyota 4x4 with well over 60K on them and they still look like new. I've had: firestone ATX's (came on my 87 D21) they sucked Kelly Safari's - lasted about 15K miles also sucked would never recommend ANY Kelly tire BFG all terrains - (old style) had these in 33's and 35's - see previous note BFG Mud Terrains (old style) my favorite tire used on and off road, work extremely well in sand no problems in the mud, not very noisy either, excellent tires Bridgestone mud duelers (think they are called), almost the same as the BFG Mt's great tire also Yokohama mud diggers (may be a newer style out now) - these tires in sand just wanted to dig in I could feel the strain they put on the truck, the rubber was very soft, didn't last long Michelin cross terrains ( from my 4x4 dakota) - a street looking tire, excellent ride and wear, smooth, quiet tremendous traction, hard to break them loose even with the V8 Goodyear wrangler RTS (stock on the dakota) - street all terrain type tread, rode fairly smooth didn't last long Goodyear SRa (stock on the titan) - same as the RTS's

why are you calling them? Just take the part to them in person and tell them it doesn't fit, hard to duck you if you are standing in front of them

when did I yell at you?? I thought I was right anyway, LOL drier should look just like this, if it doesn't than it's not the right part:

if you have to get a new starter I would order one from an online dealer, will be cheaper, just looked one up online $291 delivered. When I had problems with the starter in my D21 I went thru 2 local rebuilds within a few weeks before I bought one from beck arnley and that one lasted years, was still working when I got rid of the truck. may be something else to look into as I'm sure a beck arnley starter will be less than OEM

the expansion valve could still be bad even though you've had it vacuumed out. The OEM drier has the sight glass haven't see an aftermarket one with the glass, what do you mean you have a wire going to the old drier? the dual pressure switch should screw into the drier but don't know of another wire that goes to it.

our trucks don't have an orifice tube

I was having problems with the starter in my sentra just clicking, so I took the starter out and took the solenoid off of it and cleaned the plunger thing inside and all the contacts and put it back in the car and now it is working fine, haven't had any issues since I did that.

take the glove box out, the metal plate behind it, you will have to take the 2 hoses apart at the fittings under the hood near the firewall, unplug the fan resistor under the dash, remove about 6 screws and than the whole evaporator box should come out. Have you replaced the expansion valve at all?? If the entire system is good but the expansion valve is bad or clogged the freon will just circulate, with out the expansion valve to control it the AC will not get cold, also when you remove the evaporator good time to take it out of the plastic box and clean it really good. Would also replace the accumulator/drier if you haven't already

thanks!!

Doesn't matter if it looked like it lined up, the fact is IT DOESN'T so return it and get one that fits

I was looking at the chrome bumper but I don't have any other chrome so I passed, the sunroof shade was like the first thing I looked for didn't see it in the truck, noticed something laying on the roof but didn't pay attention to it at first, than looked back on the roof and was like DAMN the sunroof shade !! Would really like to have the steps but they most likely will be gone by the time I go back, maybe next Saturday after payday this Friday I will go back, wanted to see if the rear door struts were any good but the door was locked and didn't feel like laying in the rear area taking the inside panel apart to open the door, too hot

I would return it and get one that fits, you should not have to modify a part that is supposed to fit, if the store is a chain auto parts store and you don't like them for what ever reason maybe you can return it at another location, or if you have to go to the same store try going at a different time maybe you will get a different employee who can or will help you better.

I'll check the cross member bolts tomorrow lugs should be tight will check them as well, noise is not a click, click, click type of noise hard to describe sounds like something is hitting the floor from underneath