ahardb0dy

I took the warn hubs apart that I just bought at the junkyard and cleaned them all out, today I took the snap ring off on the back side and discovered the flat washer that is on the inside that sits on the splined part is really thin and broke in one spot. I don't think Warn sells individual parts so anyone know where I can get a replacement?? Also when I took the hubs apart and removed the thin metal lock ring so the internal gear and spring could come out, not sure which way the gear goes back in, the hub seems to work with the gear in either way but want to have it back together correctly. One side of the gear is flat and the other has a recessed surface. Anyone know which side goes facing out?? Thanks

Picked up this mount from junkyard, than noticed one side is different than the other, one side is straight one the metal curls inward, pic below, can anyone tell me if one side is the front or if it matters??

Thanks, cost more than I figured as I was looking at a price list for a different junkyard but after tax paid $36

went back to junkyard today got the hubs, had to drill out one bolt. Got home and cleaned them all up. One looks like it was under salt water or something as the inside of the part you turn is all covered with this white stuff. Good thing is they appear to be the 28 spine hubs so they should fit.

Today was a pretty good day at the local junkyards, finally found a set of the rear door (hatch) struts that actually hold the door up !! They were aftermarket ones, had no problem installing them until I got to the last ball mount on the top and the nut inside fell off, so I put a nutsert (rivnut) in but had to re-thread the ball mount to 5/16 thread, it's holding so far. Found a transfer case shifter boot in perfect condition, a pass. side sun visor in better shape than the one I had but drivers side was missing already. I got a headlight from a 525 BMW to try and use for one of my grille lights, it's made by Hella, got home and broke out the original lens which was cracked already and discovered the BMW lens is about a 1/4" smaller in diameter, will have to check out the Bosch lens I saw in a Mercedes next time I go. Got a rear tranny mount that looks to be in almost new condition, (better then my broken one), question about the mount, one side the metal is curved inward and the other side the metal is straight any one know which end goes forward or if it matters? Pic of a mount like the one I got below: and for the best find although I didn't get them yet but may go back tomorrow, I found a 90 pathfinder with a pair of Warn manual hubs, tried to remove them but didn't have a Allen wrench to fit the screws, according to info I found in the garage section the spine count from 90 to 95 is the same so they should fit right?? Is $30 a good price for the pair of hubs?

the auto parts sold me 2 different sizes and I checked the number for the pwr steering belt on the manufacturers site (Dayco) and the number was correct, the 2 sizes were: pwr steering 360 mm long 17 mm wide, alt 370 mm long 17 mm wide

94 PF, my locks all lock from the door lock knob ( near the window not the button near the window switch), is it normal not to unlock when you pull up on the lock knob?

I replaced the belts on my 94 PF today and had a hard time getting the Power steering belt over the pulley, thought they sold me the wrong size as the belt that I took off was a 1/2 bigger, (the belt I bought was a 360mm the one that was on it was a 365mm)I thought the pump was hitting the block but it turned out it was just tight and I was finally able to get it to move slightly more and got the belt on. My question is about the lock down bolt, now that I got the belt on and adjusted, the lock down nut is right in front of the metal pipe that the radiator hose connects to, I was able to get it tight using an open end wrench but I don't think the lock down nut should end up directly behind that pipe. I think the belts were original as they say "Pitwork" on them which I think is the Japanese OEM brand (engine is a JDM engine), Anyone else notice this??

you can thread a nipple into the location for the stock oil pressure sender, than a "tee" so you can keep the factory dummy light but still have the aftermarket oil pressure gauge, according to Summit racing the thread is - Sending Unit Thread Size M10 x 0.9

My 94 has heated mirrors, it's called Florida sunshine !! LOL

if you have the LSD there should be a sticker on the back of the axle telling you to use LSD fluids

I wouldn't bother going from the 70 to a 90 but the 95 to 97 maxima alternator comes in either a 110 or a 125 amp version, but it may not be a direct bolt in compared to the 80's style. I swapped a 110 amp into my 90 sentra, big difference 60 to 110 amp, all I had to do was make one bracket, change the pulley and the plug.

thanks will have to give the dealer a call, appreciate the help all

I don't have the owners manual for my 94 but I went on the Nissan site and downloaded the warranty booklet for the oldest pathfinder model they had on the site which was a 2003 and it says the seat belt warranty applies to the original retail purchaser for a time frame of 120 months/unlimited mileage, so anyone have a copy or tell me where to find a copy of the warranty for our model pathfinders???

Are you looking to just replace the speedometer part of the gauge cluster or the whole gauge cluster? According to the Nissan FAST program the speedometer assembly (just the speedometer part of the gauge cluster) that would fit your 95 is the part number shown in the listing below, and all the models and years listed use the same part: hope this helps you

Just ordered a part for my buddies Toyota thru rockauto, can't say enough good things about them, the item was shipped with a delivery date of sometime the end of the next week, 2 days later the part was at my house !!

the 2wd fenders are almost flat, may not be able to see it in my 2 pics, I can but you may not. easier to see in person that is for sure

I know about that also, like to try to fix things myself if I can, Will have to see if the spring is the same from my sentra seat belts as I have a couple extra of them when I changed the seat belt type in the sentra, thanks

Anyone know how to get the seat belts to retract on their own? Not looking for the get new one's replies, I know one side has a flat spring coiled up, and I also know if you mess with that spring and it unwinds it's very long and probably next to impossible to get back in. I figure the spring most likely is weak. Just wanted to ask if anyone has done anything about this. Thanks

if you can't see the difference better go invest in an eye test !! LOL

I don't think not having the cups is really a big deal but on my hardbody I went to a steel shop and had them cut 4 piece's of steel the size of the flat area than they punched a hole thru each one and a buddy of mine welded them on, installed new bushings and never messed with it again, you of course will need new tension rods also. There are threads on here about replacing missing cups using bearing races I believe put plate over area where red square is:

also check for play in the idler arm

Don't drink at all, what do you need to fix? We can rebuild/repair it, "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it. !"

after getting what back together? If you double checked the steering than it's probably not the steering, loose or bad wheel bearings?? What has been replaced?

on my 87 hardbody V6 I ran with the cat, with no cat, used at different times flowmaster, Supertrapp and lastly a Borla muffler, all used the same 2.25" tailpipe, no change in how the truck ran with any of the mufflers just the sound changed