hpm123

well I appreciate everyone's assistance on this. Wound up getting a Beck-Arnley starter from Advanced Auto Parts for $202. They had several other brands to pick up for about half what the B-A cost, but went w/ the Beck-Arnley on this replacement. Installed this afternoon and the ole boys back on the mend. Appreciate the assistance on this. Off topic, but just where exactly is the fuseable link located. Is that somewhere on that bulk of different connectors right at the end of the pos battery wire where it connects onto the pos battery post?

Thanks fellas - I'll try taking the solenoid off and giving it a good cleaning. Just spoke to the local Nissan shop and $374 for a new starter. Ouch. Tried there as was reading where the local parts store were serving up new defectives and don't particularly want to get in there 2 or 3 times to change that sucker before getting a good unit. But if cleaning the solenoid doesn't fix it, that may be my only choice. That or a salvage yard. Then you're just rolling the dice again on an aged starter - but thanks gentlemen for the assist.

Tested as noted above and the starter unit itself spins, but when I apply the 12v to the solenoid, nothing. I believe I'm doing this test correct: - Starter itself clamped onto the workbench vise. - Ground on battery clamped to base of vise (good continuity reading from casing of starter to vise base and batt gnd) - "+" of battery going to "+" post on solenoid (that heavy gauge wire that connects from the other post on the solenoid into the starter body is disconnected and when spanning this wire to the "+" post on the solenoid, the starter spins. - Reconnect heavy gauge wire going to starter onto the bottom post of the solenoid - I clipped the ground control wire on the solenoid to vise ground (leaving everything else noted above still connected) - Touch the solenoid control hot wire to the positive post on the battery and get no click and no starter spin. Is this a defective solenoid? All the continuity tests as called out in the shop manual for the solenoid all test ok. Would like to run this past you guys before shelling out beans for a new starter - much obliged.

Thanks gentlemen for the followup. Didn't get a chance to work on today but appreciate the info. Will do a followup on my end once I get back into this...thanks -

Good evening folks - have an issue on my 89 SE 4x4 auto-transmission not starting. Engage the ignition switch and get nothing in way of engine crank. The only click I hear when I bump the ignition switch is the "accessories' relay which is the relay on the left located just above the fuse block inside the drivers side cabin area. I can't hear any clicking coming from the solenoid, or "magnetic switch" as it's called in the shop manual. Battery checks good on a load test done by Advance. I can hear the fuel pump relay kick in and pressurize the fuel line and then drop out once pressurized. Lights and other accessories work when switching to "on" on the ignition switch. Pulled all the ignition related fuses in the fuse block and ohm'd all these and all checked good. Thinking the starter is bad, I pulled it out and have it on my workbench. I did the continuity tests on the mag switch as called out in the FSM, and these 2 tests test good. I put the battery on the workbench as well and hooked up the +/- on the battery to the 2 threaded posts on the solenoid using my jumper cables. I was thinking this should spin the starter pinion gear but I get nothing on this test. No click - nothing. Is this a correct way of bench-testing a starter? I was thinking I should get something when connecting the starter solenoid connections to the battery posts, but get nothing. Does this test indicate a defective starter? Much obliged for any assistance -

Gentlemen - I appreciate the responses. I feel the fool here. I made a run up to the Nissan shop and got to speak w/ a mechanic. On the bottom of the caliper assy, is that bushing that has the rubber boots on it, that the pin bolt goes through that secures into the torgue member. That bushing on the caliper assy slides laterally, and that's what wasn't happening on mine. It was like stuck. I tapped lightly on the bushing with a hammer yesterday, but it didn't budge so I thought it was stationary. However knowing it is supposed to move, I finally got it moving side-side and got it pushed in enough to where I can now fully lower the caliper onto the torque member..all good... Geesh.. Not sure I could have made that any more difficult if I had tried...thanks again for assisting -

yea, and I'm having a tough time describing it as well, which doesn't help. I'll try to get a snapshot and get posted. I think what I'm going to do in the interim, is run up to the Nissan shop and take the pads I'm currently working with, and do a side-by-side, if they'll work w/ me on that. If there's a difference in pad thickness (which would give me more lateral movement) then I'll pony up for the Nissan pads and take the AAP pads back. Will followup when I have something -

Yes, caliper assembly floats freely. Put a light coating of silicone grease on the pin, and it slides side-to-side w/o any binding. And yes, the caliper piston is fully pushed into the bore. Used a c-clamp and old brake pad and it's as far in as it will go. I tried tapping on the pin-bolt bushing on the caliper assy, but it's stationary... When I lower the caliper it slides over the pads, up to the point where the pin bolt bushing hits a collar on the mating pin bolt hole on the torgue member.. I'm stumped -

Thanks nunya and thanks to everyone else as well...I appreciate the assistance -

Much obliged fellas for the assistance - Had done all the steps on Big Shoes response, except for the door handle trim piece. So one add'l clarification if you would please, its only the door handle trim piece that has to come off to get the door panel off?. The trim piece on the power window switch does not need to come off, just disconnected from the backside once the door panel is lifted off. (i kept trying to get this trim piece off which had me stuck and had me to the point where I thought I was going to break a tab or something)

Need to get the drivers side door panel off to replace the window regulator but getting stuck with the power window switch cover and door handle assemblies. I've tried sliding a flat bladed instrument at the base of the assy, but there's something I'm missing...aside from a little common sense. How do you get these assemblies disconnected so that the door panel can be removed? TIA -