ahardb0dy

where in Florida are you heading?

don't know about the gauge of "cookie sheets" but street signs, if you can get one legally are usually pretty thick

click on my link to always find the latest 5% discount code for rockauto: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r21778014-5-Discount-Code-for-RockAuto~start=40

sorry, was talking about oldslowreliable's bumper, I like what all of you have done, makes me wish I had kept the Pro Zap bumper I had on my hardbody

No problem, that's why we are here, good luck, let us know what you find. Welcome to the site, by the way !!

do you have a stripe that is near the door handle or the wide stripe that is near the bottom of the door? I found this: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=214041&chapter=AEF3615&appSectionid=4501&groupid=4501&subgroupid=4501&componentid=11415&make=25&model=Pathfinder&year=1988&graphicID=3615185&callout=1&catalogid=2 I would have the stripe re-done by a local sign shop, the vinyl will be a lot thinner ( less wax buildup on the edges), will be a better quality vinyl, you could pick the color, and may be cheaper than getting it from a dealer, if it is even available still.

looks like there is only 2 fuses that control the clock. I did a search on Google and found a lot of people complaining about the clocks not working, if the clock can be easily removed, myself I would take it apart and check the circuit board as Towncivilian suggested.

found this in the FSM check out link: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/el.pdf sorry didn't come up to the exact page so enter 576 into the page window on top

sounds stupid, but check the dimmer switch for the dash lights

when I just replaced my thermostat and was refilling the coolant system, until I had the air flushed out really good the heat did not come out very hot at all, but once all the air was out the heat will burn your fingers now, you may want to follow the previous advice and make sure you have the system bled real good.

probably not, I can't believe no body in CA sells or could make you one similar, I know Smittybilt used to but seems they are only making parts for Jeeps now!!

I like your finished bumper but sitting so close to the body it doesn't look like it would protect the front of the truck if you ever were hit or hit something??

they quoted you $318 just for shipping ??!! Well you could drive here on vacation, check out the tourist stuff, pick the bumper up on your way home.

that was funny but incorrect, if you could stop the fan with your fingers, DO NOT TRY THIS !!, it would mean the fan clutch is no good

I was just saying I would use the one I pictured compared to using a regular "L" shaped allen wrench. Good luck any other questions let us know.

when we did the 3" body lift on my 87 Hardbody, we used the radiator lowering bracket on the bottom and they gave brackets to lower the top but the installer I worked with found that you could just flip the upper Nissan radiator mounts upside down and they lined up with the dropped radiator.

if you can when you go to remove the allen head bolts, it would be better to use one of these: than a regular allen key, I would suggest putting the allen part in the head of the bolt and tapping it all thee way in with a hammer than put a rachet on it and try to turn it, if you use a regular allen wrench and it doesn't turn you could strip out the head of the bolt.

I don't know what is different between them but I looked up the water pump for both engines on rockauto and they list different part numbers for the 2 engines.

rockauto has them starting at $12 and going up to $33, the only brand I've ever heard of is the "strongarm" brand. Here is a site have found where they always have updated discount codes for rockauto: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r21778014-5-Discount-Code-for-RockAuto~start=40

A few ways to tell if the fan clutch is bad are, fan spins at the same speed no matter if engine is at idle or you are revving it fan can easily be stopped while turning with a piece of cardboard (don't try this with your hand please!!) fan has side to side play in it visible evidence of fluid leaking out of the fan clutch I thought the one in my 94 was good until I replaced it, you can not mistake the difference in how it sounds when you rev the engine!! On my 94 the engine temp never went more than 1/4" above the cold mark, the heat was ok but not blistering as other members on here said theirs was, I just replaced my thermostat and flushed the heater core out and now the temp gauge goes just below the half way mark, the heat IS HOT !! 150 degrees out of the vents. My turck takes about 2 miles before it gets to operating temp. I would open open your hood,start the engine, see how the fan is spinning, how it sounds, should be fairly quiet, than raise the rpms quick moving the linkage on the throttle body, the fan should make more noise, and spin faster if it doesn't the clutch is probably bad. I would also suggest checking the metal pipe that connects the lower hose and the water outlet, mine was really bad and had a lot of build up inside of it, not to mention the pinholes in it, just got one from the junkyard, I actually pulled 2 to see which was better, the one I didn't buy looked like the cooling system had never ever been serviced, really bad buildup inside, can imagine what the inside of the engine looked like.

thanks, was hoping everything I said was correct !! LOL that diagram was taken from the 1995 FSM, FA (front axle) section, page FA-16 one of my allen head bolts wouldn't come out, but it was when I was checking the wheel bearings, I ended up having to cut the head off using a Dremel, so after that the bolts all came out easy when I replaced the hubs. I got my Warn hubs used from a truck at the junkyard so half of the studs were used and the other half I bought from Ace Hardware, was surprised they even had them in stock, I did not use any locktight on mine, wanted to make sure everything worked ok before doing so.

think there's more than 3 main tubes on that bar. They are the company that made the triple double bar I had in my 87 hardbody.

That instruction sheet does not look like it is specific to the Nissan, Just remove the parts I outlined and you will be fine. You will need to remove the 6 allen head bolts that secure the auto hub, than take the outer part of the auto hub off, once off wipe off the grease you will probably find so you can see the "C" clip, remove the clip with snap ring pliers, once the clip is removed, removed the 2 washers and the inner part of the hub clutch, you should now be able to see the lock ring with the phillips head screw securing it, that is all you remove, to install the new hub, thread in the new studs with lock tite on the threads, place the new manual hub body over the axle shaft splines,re-install the "C" clip onto the splined axle shaft but you will now use the outer groove in the end of the axle ( not the inner groove that the clip was originally in), secure the hub body with the new nuts and washers, install the outer hub into the hub body and secure with the new allen head screws. I jacked my truck up when I was done just to verify the hubs worked, that would be up to you to do.

yes, you can do the hub swap without removing the wheel or jacking the truck up. You need to remove everything within the redlines in my pic below, if you have stock wheels with the center caps you will have to make the center holes bigger for the hub to fit thru pic below of my 94 with Warn manual hubs: