ahardb0dy

Well at least the newer cranks have 2 slots, my 87 hardbody only had one that the timing gear and dampener had to share, my key was messed up one time and I had a friend replace the timing gear and dampener with OEM parts, he tightened everything to spec and a month later it happened again, so instead of replacing the crank I had him put a JDM engine in, Engine made the truck feel better than new. Plus like my friend and I discussed way back never know what else you would find when pulling the old crank out. Good fix!

After checking the codes yesterday, drove to work and back today and no check engine light, will keep an eye on it, thanks

Noticed today on the drive home from work the check engine light was on, checked the codes when I got home and had only one, code 45, FSM says injector leak, The FSm says the injector could be leaking or may let more fuel than is needed into the cylinder. I haven't had a chance to check this out yet but could this be why my PF sucks fuel down so bad?? I know our PF's aren't the best on gas but mine is ridiculous. Thanks All

you should stick with 18' of coax even if it is too long, just wrap the excess about 12-14 inches long and tie wrap the ends.

OOOOHHH !! SO PRETTY !! LOL

I got my Warn's from the junkyard, rebuilt them using parts Warn sent me for free, for the lego cap I enlarged the hole to the line in the cap:

Have you ever seen the filter the Titan uses? I was amazed the first time I changed the oil in the titan we had, a V8 with such a tiny filter and my Sentra filter about twice the size.

last reply off topic, that's why I mentioned the long and short antenna, way back when CB's were really popular our group did use them quite a bit to communicate to where we were going to meet,etc so the long range was usable, but as I said swapping the normal antenna to the short one worked fine when in close quarters,Also don't forget the reason to mount the antenna on the roof in the center is to have an equal signal 360 degrees around the vehicle as mounting an antenna on a corner makes it most directional the opposite way, ex. pass. rear would pick up best forward and to the drivers side, but as stated in a close group it wouldn't matter. back on topic now. May be making a junkyard run this weekend I'll keep my eyes open for you.

possibly something got wet when you cleaned it? I would check the spark plug wires to see if there is any arcing between a wire and any metal, but if something did get wet you would think it would have dried by now. Only thing I can think of since it was running fine before you changed the oil, which I don't think changing the oil should make it run worse, the only other variable is you cleaned it, does that mean you washed it or?? When one of my spark plug wires was bad on my Sentra it seemed to run fine at idle but was running like crap at highway speed, had no power even when floored, turned out one of the wires had a nick in it down next to the head and it was arcing to the metal, it was so bad even after wrapping the nick with several layers of electrical tape it burned right thru the tape in less than a mile.

On my old hardbody, I would run, and I think they are the best antenna, a Wilson 1000 perm mount on the roof, they also sell a magnet mount, they are nice because the whip is real skinny and flex's very well. Back when I had the triple double roll bar in the bed, I had a 4' firestick fiberglass whip on top of the light bar with a spring for normal street use than would remove the 4' whip and replace it with a 2' one as Nunya said, when your in a group wheeling the shorter antenna works good enough for the close range. But it's your ride and as you said it's where you want it

I wasn't suggesting to order them thru the mail just wanted to show the price and what I was referring to. Do you have any truck dealers up there? Mack,kenworth,Peterbuilt,Sterling, Any truck repair shops or truck stops should have them.

How's that song go, "too much time on my hands" LOL

When I had the JDM engine swapped in to my 94 the only code I had was for that EGR temp sensor, I took the sensor out of the old engine and the harness but it turned out the JDM engine had the harness but it had a cap in the connector, put the sensor in and connected the plugs no more code.

Semi truck mud flaps, smooth one side logo on the other,about 1/4 " thick, easy to find, truck stops, truck dealers. just found these for an example, 1/4" x 24" x 36" $7.65 each http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/key/JKC%202436S/pn/Mud-Flap-1-4-rubber-24--x-36/erm/productDetail.do

Thanks, I was going to drill the bolts on the pass. side and use a washer with some type of clip to make removal easier but ended up just using nuts, The semi mud flaps worked good for me, and when replacing the oil filter I only had to take half of it loose. If I EVER lift the PF I will be doing the same thing, right now am thinking if I want to keep it or sell it as I just can't afford to get anything for it, things are so much different now from when I had my hardbody, of course prices always go up but it was so easy back than (and cheaper) to get parts with the discount I used to get on everything. Sorry for the off topic ramblings back to topic now. one thing if you have the stock wheel well liners you can use them to trace out the pattern on what ever you choose to use after the body lift, just add the 3" difference to the new ones in the middle, should work out fine.

On my hardbody after the body lift I used a pair of semi mud flaps (cut to fit) to cover the front wheel well gap, fairly easy to find them, I also used bolts inserted thru the inner fender sheet metal from the engine side, than I put a nut on the bolt so the bolt would stay in place, added the rubber and used a washer and another nut, this way if I needed to remover the rubber liner the bolts will stay in place, and you would just be removing the nuts and washers. Just make sure to use a bolt long enough to go thru the metal and rubber, this method worked great for me and makes it easy to remove the liner or only half of it when doing a oil filter change.

Well since I can't find another Carello light for my grille I will have to start looking for a truck grille and some truck corner lights, and I need to get the exterra roof rack installed so I can take it back off to paint it, once I decide what color it will be.

My neighbor just bought an MGB for his wife, think it is a 77 it has 67K miles on it. My current project that I can't get anyone to help me finish is the xterra roof rack on the PF!

I've never used a steering wheel puller on any Nissan I've ever owned, I do it the way suggested, loosen the nut (leaving it on of course), grab each side of the wheel, while puling towards you wiggle it a little pops right off. The only car I removed the steering wheel and had to use a puller was my friends Buick Regal, that sucka was on there good !! My 94 doesn't have an airbag either.

Just switched to high mileage 5W30 Mobil One in my sentra, the ticking at start up was getting annoying. PF , heard it start when my wife drove it today.

Sounds like a ground issue, for that many things to just go out at once.

sure does, I was thinking of the KMA bumper

check the fusible links for continuity across them also

kind of like this, not home made though

I like how the bedliner material looks by the way off topic, I like 4 runners but only up to 89