ahardb0dy

the 2 on E-bay now $50 and $95 maybe see if Precise would make you an adapter, he made one already may be easy to make a second one??

I haven't looked under my PF to see how it is mounted, and I like how you relocated the cross member but have a question. Would it have been possible to cut the stock cross member off the frame and just relocate the stock cross member further forward so you could use the longer arms?

Didn't someone make a spacer to mount one to the round dash? Nunya possibly? can't recall

That's usually why a single exhaust will use bigger pipe than duals, the cat back I had on my V8 dakota, single was 3" but usually they do duals in 2" to 2.5" but on a V6 it would be different, I had 2.25 single on my hardbody and it ran fine and sounded great. I knew a guy long time ago that ran single 3" on his 4 cyl toyota pickup, was loud but no idea how it ran.

What your looking for is know as a "clinometer" best bet will be E-bay, they do become available for sale once in a while but tend to be expensive. Make sure if you do find one that it will fit on the curved dash that your 95 has, I think most of them were made for the older style dash, but I am not 100% sure on that. Someone else will correct me if I am wrong. in fact there are 2 on e-bay right now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=nissan+clinometer+&_cqr=true&_nkwusc=nissan+clintometer&_rdc=1

I like the OEM one but even if my local dealer had 20 of them in stock I WOULD NOT be spending $76, or $50 to get one of them. If found in a junkyard than yeah I'd pick one up. As for spilling drinks, just because you have a cup holder with a cup in it doesn't imply the cup has an open top.

If the fan belt for the ALT is sitting too low in the pulley it can make noise

Your right about slamming the brakes and what ever is in the cup holder will go flying as will anything else that is in the truck so now we aren't supposed to have anything loose in our trucks because one day if we slam on our brakes everything will go flying?? Well one day while driving a wheel may loosen and fly off to so better not drive at all I guess, LOL So we know you don't have to have a drink while driving, and you would rather go into a fast food place to eat, and coffee is bad for us also. You feel free to continue the way you live, I personally enjoy my coffee, I smoke and yes I'm over weight too. I don't have a cup holder in either of my vehicles (unless you count my buddy that car pools with me!!), sometimes on a long drive say from here in Florida to NY there are long stretches of road where there is nothing around and waiting for the next place to stop may be a long wait. But as previously mentioned you don't like cup holders and you are entitled to your opinion, we just don't have to hear it over and over again.

So your saying the contact area of the upper control arm is sitting 2" above the bump stops? How close is the lower control arm to the bump stops? If I understand what you are saying there shouldn't be that much space between the UCA and the bump stop. While driving if you hit a bump, that pushes the control arms upward and if you have that much space between the UCA and it's bump stop than that means the lower control arm is practically sitting against it's bump stop which would make the ride feel rough as the lower control arm is hitting the bump stop. Of course if you drove into a hole the control arms would move downward until the UCA makes contact with it's bump stops. Not feeling safe on the highway? what do you mean by that? does the truck seem wobbly or like the steering is on the edge? If so you may need an alignment.

You can remove the entire power window regulator with motor in about 10 minutes it isn't that hard. Lower the window until the 2 bolts that hold the glass to the plastic clips are accessible remove the bolts push the window back up manually and support it somehow, I used wooden wedges between the glass and the rubber trim remove the bolts for the regulator, 2 upper 2 lower remove the bolts for the electric motor unplug the motor remove regulator assembly

The truck shouldn't ride that bad even with the tires and wheels you are running, unless you have the torsion bars cranked up too much and they are sitting on the bumpstops, if that is the case you could install thinner bumpstops, but if the bars ARE cranked that much it will lead to other problems. If the torsion bars are not cranked a lot what shocks are you running now?

Torque specs are shown in every illustration, look for the white wrench on the nut symbol, complete specs are shown at the end of every section under "service data and specifications, SDS"

I know chevy swaps are always popular one bad thing is the distributor if the engine has one is in the rear and you normally will have to massage the firewall to make clearance for it. Ford distributor is in the front so no problems with that. Infiniti Q45 engine swap 317 HP (factory underrated at 287)

If you download the factory service manual than go into the electrical section it has diagrams that show all the connectors in a given area and tells what each is for, some times you will have plugs that are not used. Sticky rubber plug looks like it may have been a drain or something, it does have a hole in it doesn't it? some examples of FSM page:

I have the triple shock front and dual shock rear setup from my hardbody, the front used a shock hoop and the 2 shocks connected from the hoop to the top of the UCA (making them very short), the UCA had tabs on it with a thick spacer in the middle to seperate the 2 shocks, the stock shock remains in it's stock location. I never installed the shock hoops and they are in my storage waiting, LOL For the rear in the hardbody they had a bracket that mounted over the studs that the shock would normally go onto, the bracket than held the 2 shocks. Normally when running multiple shocks you can get certain shocks that are valved to be used in multiples. all these parts were from Jim Connor Racing. One of my never installed hoops painted in Nunya's favorite color: rear shock setup can be seen here: front triple shock setup can be seen here:

I have the paper version of the 87 Hardbody FSM and will scan sections if needed. Don't ask to get the whole manual or 20 pages because I'm not scanning that much.

I would check the codes first, also I would check and clean the butterfly in the throttle body, the TB is designed so that when the butterfly is fully closed a small amount of air can still get thru which allows the engine to idle, over time the edges of the butterfly get a build up on it and this can reduce the opening so air has a hard time getting thru and can cause the idle to be rough. If you have the V6 I would also check the thermo element( which contains a wax element inside) that controls the position of the butterfly, basically it raises the idle when cold until the coolant that flows thru it heats up causing the wax to melt and this allows the idle to drop to the normal range. There is a procedure in the FSM for measuring the amount of stroke in the rod that pushes on the cam on the TB linkage, the rod comes out of the thermo element housing. But checking the codes would always be the first step. Sorry not sure if the 4 cylinder has the thermo element, I am only familiar with the V6

Have the battery charged and see if it will start, if not try what I said before you get a new ignition switch.

Sorry I should have stated in my reply that the battery should be fully charged before trying what I suggested. I was thinking the same thing that the starter kill may have been engaged and if the battery was dead or very low the alarm would not be able to be re-set or shut off until the battery is re-charged.

The key can be removed if it is worn down enough. If you want to check to see if the ignition switch is the problem remove the upper and lower covers on the steering column, the electrical part of the ignition switch can be removed by taking 1 screw out, once removed try starting the truck by turning the electrical part you removed from the ignition switch.

WELCOME TO NPORA !!

The Moog bushing kit comes with the sleeves

pics?

What I usually do with the grille clips when re-installing the grille is to line up the square part of the clip in the square hole in the grille mount, than using your fingers turn the clip until it locks in place, once you have them all in just push the grille with the clips into the rectangle holes in the metal. Easy this way.

the switch changes the stiffness of the factory adjustable shocks, if your truck still has them. What I did on mine to see if the worked was to open the rear hatch and push down on the truck, in touring (or comfort on some years) the truck should move easily up and down, you can also try rocking the truck from side to side by pushing on the side of the truck near the roof, now put the switch in the other position and repeat the push tests if the shocks are working you should see and feel a big difference.