ahardb0dy

I used to have a air tank mounted where the winch would go in my winch bumper on the hardbody, off topic not the PF but here's mine in the Sentra: I only use it for my 2 air horns!! LOL small horn: BIG horn: air gauge in dash, it's sitting straight up now:

The digital odometer is like (or is) and LCD I think, could be a bad connection on the circuit board. Does yours not work at all? Could be a fairly simple cluster swap to fix it.

Different

The pass. window on my 94 was doing the almost the same thing, wouldn't go up, I pulled the door panel to run power to the motor to get it to roll up and that didn't work either, ended up unbolting the glass from the regulator and pushing the window up and securing it with some wooden wedges for the night. Pulled the motor and took it apart, wiped the copper windings down and put it back together and it worked both ways fine, re-installed it and it's worked perfect since. As to your issue, the window switches are a common failure, I took my drivers side switch apart and jumped the contacts with a screwdriver to test it but ended up getting a new switch from a junkyard. Did you test to see if power is getting to the motor when you press the down button? I had a problem with my pass. rear window would work from the door itself but not from the drivers master switch, traced it to a broken wire under the pass seat. I would download the FSM if you don't have it, here is the wiring schematic for the windows: I would bet it is still a problem with the switch, anyone near you that you can swap switches to test it?

On my old hardbody I used to wax the rear axle!! After I painted it gloss black of course!

His truck is a 2004, and if you look at the picture circled you can see the same lines on the part as in the second picture. Isn't that part sort of an adapter that the oil filter mounts too? I seem to remember a thread on here about replacing the o-ring as it is a common thing that leaks on the newer PF's. Someone more familiar with the newer PF's will correct me if I am wrong.

Thought they looked like 10's, I had 15 x 10's on my 87 hardbody with 33's, I like how the tires look on the 10's. I'll have to consider the Goodyears when I finally can afford tires, I don't want to get new 31's but would rather lift the truck and do 33's. Will be checking up on how your tires are treating you. Thanks

If you didn't replace the 'sense" wire I would run a new wire from the alternator to the battery, the "sense" wire lets the alternator know what the battery voltage is so it can adjust accordingly. If it's not getting a correct reading it may not respond when yu turn on accessories or raise the RPM's. I think it is the white wire in the plug, I would attach a new wire using a scotchlok connector near the alternator plug and attach it to the positive terminal and see if that helps.

I doubt anyone would want a steel wheel made for a truck from that long ago but a good deal is hard to pass up I guess.

Fogs are different than driving lights, generally fog lights are aimed low and the lenses disperse the light to the sides, the amber or yellow lenses also don't blind people as bad as the clear lenses. Cup holders there is a complete LONG thread on here about them!! LOL, try searching for it, I'm sure someone will post a link to it. Long story short anything you do will be custom, some members have swapped consoles into their trucks from newer pathfinders or from Jeep Cherokees, I tried a console at the junkyard from a newer pathfinder into a pathfinder like mine (94) and it was too wide, but others have made them fit, I didn't want to go thru all the extra work to get the console to fit just for the cup holders.

as previously mentioned, the connector is just a female spade connector, not worth the money to get a factory one.

looked back at the chart on that website it says 67-87 have a 108mm center bore must be 4wd's only down further on the chart shows same year with a smaller center bore, the only difference between the 2 listings are the lug sizes, the larger taking 1/2" lugs the smaller 7/16". Chart says Nissan center bore is 100mm. Just going by what they are saying I haven't measured anything personally, and it's been a real long time since I had a Chevy rally wheel in my hands,lol

Older Chevy/GMC wheels will fit, referring to 91 and earlier styles. this site below let's you search by number of lugs and bolt pattern and will list every vehicle that uses that pattern, also displays center bore sizes: http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp?LugCount=6&StudSpreadInch=5.5&StudSpreadMM=

Nice, your wheels are 10" wide it looks like? I read most of the reviews on Tirerack.com for the Goodyear and the BFG A/T, both tires get mostly good reviews, I guess the Goodyear is a newer model as the BFG has 2107 reviews and the Goodyear has 276. I limited the reviews I read to smaller trucks (Nissan,Toyota & Jeeps), a lot of the reviews from full size truck owners generally are not very positive as they tend to put a tire not designed for a heavy truck on a heavy truck than complain about it. I like how your Goodyears look on your truck but don't know if I personally could run Goodyears over the BFG's, I haven't had much luck with them. Back when I used to instal tires at an off-road shop we mostly sold BFG's and our customers (including myself, my wife and friends) all had good experiences with them. Will be waiting to see what you think of the Goodyears after you put some miles on them, keep us updated.

I know from reading your post that you've tried multiple alternators but just read on another forum someone having same problem as you (Lexus) and dealer said it was alternator or battery, the owner had the alternator load tested and it failed (after testing ok in store), he replaced the alternator again and it solved his problem. Any chance you can take the alternator to an auto electric shop instead of having it tested at an auto parts store?? Did the alternator harness you bought replace all the wiring that was stock? Years ago I was having issues with voltage readings with an aftermarket 160 amp alternator and the manufacturer told me to run a wire from the alternator sense wire straight to the battery and that fixed my problem. Also I read in the other forum they were asking the owner having the problem what his idle RPM's were, they were saying if the RPM's were set lower than what they were supposed to be when the car was put into drive the RPM's may be too low causing the voltage to be low and causing the stumble?? They had suggested cleaning the butterfly in the TB and the MAF sensor. Have you checked the output of the alternator directly at the alternator? clip your positive lead directly onto the stud on the back of the alternator and put the ground wire anywhere and see what the voltage is.

Was going to say, now that the cluster is apart perfect time to plastic polish the clear cover inside and out.

I would have to look at the FSM, can't check it right now but think the 87 has a speedometer cable, someone will correct me if I am wrong, possibly cable is bad??

If you do pull the panel make sure this part is still attached to the lock cylinder, the black part on the right side of the lock cylinder:

Some of that plastic is pretty strong stuff, I've seen it used on the floors of dump trucks at work.

I had moved my PF and Sentra into an unused driveway behind our house for the holidays, yesterday I started the PF,cranked really slow didn't think it was even going to start, pulled it around to put in my driveway and shut it off. I than realized our house mate's car was in the spot I park the PF. So I went to start the PF and I get nothing, all I can hear is the relay clicking, so I pulled the wire coming out of the relay from the starter relay mod and touched it to the positive terminal on the battery, nothing, I tapped on the solenoid and starter with the jack rod, nothing, finally let the truck roll backwards a little in reverse, and turn the key and it cranks really slow but starts. So what does this indicate? Flywheel problem? Starter? I'll be replacing the starter next when I can spare the cash and I bet it will be fine after that.

That plastic cap won't bother anything, it will get grinded up like someone said already. Next time pick up a short length of clear tubing and push it onto the bottle's "nipple" and use that to put in the fill hole.

According to the FSM there are 2 fuses for the power mirrors, top row second one in from the left and bottom row first fuse on the left, taken from the 94 FSM

Thanks !! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours as well!!

Here is what the cable looked like in my 94 before I swapped it, same deal looked like half the wire was not in the terminal: You swapped the starter? Was it a new one? rebuit? used? My PF was doing the same thing and than I did the starter relay mod and it was fine for about a year than it started to not start, tapping the starter would make it start. I pulled the starter and had it tested, passed, had the battery tested , fine, I took the starter apart and cleaned everything than tested it on my bench with the battery 40 or so times and it worked every time. I ran new 4 gauge from the battery to the starter, new terminals and re-installed the starter and it was fine for about 2 months or so than it started to crank slowly until it wouldn't start and than had to tap the starter. Now sometimes it will start other times it won't. The cable going to the starter is not a fusible link. You can try swapping out the starter relay but if the wire looks bad I would replace it.

I could see if you lived outside the US having a hard time finding the gaskets but in the US any Nissan dealer should have them in stock. The nice thing is the gaskets for our trucks fit other vehicles which makes it more likely to be in stock. You said you were looking for the gaskets between the exhaust manifolds and the "Y" pipe? Nissan Fast shows 2 types one from before MAy 93 and one after May 93, the earlier gasket looks to be a 3 bolt hole style and the later one looks like a ring type. Both are used on multiple vehicles.