ahardb0dy

The two nuts on top should be sitting right against the half round metal piece on top of the cross member, the only place they could be. Some say the adjuster should be tucked up inside the cross member so it can't get hit by anything, it depends on the type of off roading you do on how important it may be to you if the adjuster is sitting below the cross member. If your adjusters are already inside the cross member and you were going to try to adjust them to get more lift, you would probably run out of adjustment and would need to re-index the bars. On my old hardbody my adjusters were not inside the cross member and I never had a problem with them being low, I usually only ran in sand and mud so wasn't worried about them.

Been there done that ! In My sentra anyway, yup that's the problem. The cables seemed to have gone way up in price recently from the dealer I paid around $30 for the one for my car about 8 years ago and now it's over $100 !!! I pulled one from a junkyard, works good as new. PF one may be cheaper, Just looked the cable up, not sure of your particulars but it came up around $52 from an online dealer.

"Also the clock positions you mention, from ths FSM 4 and 8 o'clock that looking from behind the cross member toward the front of the truck, right?" Yes, the bars can go in any way you put them, the rear adjuster is limited by the length of the adjusting bolt.

That's the nice part about manual hubs, when they are locked, you know they are locked ! No wondering like with the auto hubs, plus you don't have to worry about them unlocking if you happen to reverse.

today drove it to storage and back, first time I drove it in I don't know how long !! LOL Discovered drivers side rear window is not working, will have to check it tomorrow.

have you jacked it up and checked for play in the tire, side to side and up and down, wheel bearing maybe? You can get away with no antifreeze down here but I guess not where you live

so if the inside of the radiator was a block of ice, I'm guessing it had straight water in it?

does the steering wheel shake or can you feel it in the seat? Steering wheel indicates something in the front, seat the rear. Not big on the R50's so I'm not much help, sorry.

WOW !! I've seen water pipes at work that blew like that but never a radiator like that, guess there was too much pressure, maybe replace the cap too.

your picture is backwards, the master cylinder is on the wrong side !!! :laugh: :laugh:

if the pulley has room to move on the shaft so that it can be not centered, than the hole is too big for the shaft. If you can check to see if there is play with the half of the pulley on the shaft, that would be good info for people who may do the swap in the future. thanks.

If you hear a clunking noise with the wheels turned while going over a bump or into a driveway most likely it is the steering stops rubbing against the metal stoppers on the lower control arm, you truck should have plastic caps on the heads of the steering stop bolts, the older trucks (87) did not come with the plastic caps. It is possible the plastic caps wore thru or fell off, either way take a big gob of wheel bearing grease and put it on the curved metal part that the steering stop rubs on, there should be one in front and one in the rear of the lower control arm, ( 2 dr. side 2 pass side), here they are in a page from the FSM,

Very Red and Yellow !, Looks good !

Either the back part is bent or the hole is too big for the shaft, if you put the rear half in front does the front ( now in the rear) still move the same way? When you put just the rear half on the shaft, is there play between the hole and the shaft? I would still get the one piece pulley, And that nut doesn't look like it's on very much. Thanks for the video, pics and or video always helps

Best idea after buying any used vehicle is assume nothing was done and then do as much as you can right away, tune up, filters oil, grease, etc.

you can put the rear adjusters on anyway you like, if you start out with them pointing down to the 4 o'clock position (pass side) and 8 o'clock position ( dr. side) you may not leave yourself enough room to adjust them. I would just put the adjusters on as far down as you can and still get the bolt through the top of the cross member, you don;t have to adjust them all the way but this way you leave yourself room to adjust them, the only negative thing is they may stick down below the bottom of the cross member and can be hit if you do heavy wheeling. Just looked in the service manual and it shows the adjusters pointing at the positions I said, the manual also has a measurement for the amount of thread that sticks out above the lock nut on top.

Clunking noises are not normal ! If it is coming from the tension rod than the rod needs new bushings but it's not normal. The only noise on the front of these trucks that could be considered normal is the steering stops hitting the metal when you turn the wheel full lock and go up an incline, like into a driveway, etc. Than all those need are new plastic bolt covers or a dab of grease. If anyone hears clunk noises something is not right.

mine's from a Villager (Quest), lol

My truck won't know what to do in that weather, it's a Southern truck, LOL

your special !! But it takes you two days to get outside because it's always so cold up there ! LOL

I didn't have any trouble un-bolting the starter, disconnecting the wire and plug or getting it past the motor mount, getting it out the front past the tranny lines was where it got harder, but dropping the idler arm as I said made it easier.

Sometimes you can get one from an auto electric company, when I bought my alt from junk yard for my sentra, I took it to a shop that rebuilds them looking for a 4 groove pulley ( the alt had a 6 groove on it), the guy swapped the pulley with another 6 groove, he didn't have a 4 groove pulley and told me it was OK as the belt will ride in only the grooves it needs too, no problems since with it, but he didn't like how the edge of the pulley looked so he replaced it for me, also had him put it on their tester, charged me like $20 I think.

When I did the alt, swap I used a one piece pulley, but I swapped in the 110 amp alt from a Villager (quest) and had to grind the lip off the front case of the alt. The Maxima alt you are using is the 90 amp that should swap right in I believe. The 87-88 alt's should use the external fan and look like this : and this should be what the Maxima 90 amp looks like, is this the one you got? If you went from the style of the first pic to the style of the second pic, the problem may be that there is a gap when using the old 2 piece pulley on the newer alt because the newer one does not use the external fan. You may need to get a one piece pulley.

so the OP has an 88 PF which may have the 2 piece pulley right?

what was hard to get centered? not understanding what you are referring too. The pulley should go right on the shaft, Is this the 90 amp alternator?