ahardb0dy

yes even the DOT hella's have better light output than a normal sealed beam headlight, be careful if you decide to get Euro spec headlights, they have to be for a country where they drive on the same side of the road as the US, other wise the light will blind oncoming traffic no matter how you adjust them

rockauto has the TYC part which I know from past use is a quality product, they also sell another brand that says "various manufacturers" which are slightly more money

rockauto has TYC (name brand) replacement headlight assemblies for $40 each with the bulb

hardbody conversion with Hella Euro spec H4 headlights, 55 watt low 100 watt high beams, running off a double relay fed from the stock headlight wiring ( from one side triggers relay feeding both sides) using a custom made 10 gauge headlight harness ( by me), with hardbody grille, these lights are BRIGHT especially the 100 watt high beams, they have a sharp cut off so you are not blinding anyone, as long as you have them adjusted right, these headlights are NOT DOT approved but don't think anyone is going to stop me to check them, no inspections down here anyway, pics below: double relay, this is an old relay, made by Dick Cepek, have it fused with an automatic circuit breaker:

14M is not a fuse it is a relay , see my pic below on where it should be:

yes you did !! LOL

sent

I have a manual for the TD27 for the Navara, do not know if it is complete or not, but I can e-mail what I have to you, send me a PM with your e-mail

Saw it done on here, no idea who or where the post is but, build a box that fits the rear cargo area, as tall as you want/need, make it so you have drawers that pull out from the rear, carpet the top, won't even be able to tell it's in there if someone looks thru the window.

this is from the 94 FSM so not 100% sure if it's the same as yours:

I believe only the external fan alternators used the 2 piece pulley, as I was just trying to remember where I got the pulley for mine when I swapped in the Quest alternator, after looking it up on Rockauto I noticed the alternators for the 94 already has the one piece pulley, so if your ever near a junkyard you could get the pulley from a newer pathfinder or hardbody or check in an auto electric store they should have them.

I replied in your topic in reply to what you posted here, thought i was losing it for a minute, I thought the first post says he has an auto trans but now this one is saying it's a manual tranny ???? LOL

I think 93 ditchfindah replied in the wrong thread LOL Anyway to reply to your last post in the other thread the manual trans trucks have a second relay on the drivers side, it's a emergency interlock relay number 14M in the starter section of the FSM under the EL section (used the 94 FSM as 93 is not available online) I would also suggest cleaning your positive terminal and the bolts that hold the wires to it, they look dirty in the pic you posted in the other thread.

This just came to me while checking the wiring diagram but need to ask, have you tried to start the truck with the shifter in Neutral? Or when it is in Park while pushing the shifter forward? There is an interlock switch on the shifter so it doesn't start in gear. OK I'm confused now the OP said his truck is an auto but now 93 Ditchfindah is posting pics and describing his problem in this same thread and his truck is a manual trans? Please start your own thread and can a Moderator remove the second persons posts it's confusing in here now, Thanks

If you want to do it the "right Way", you need to follow the wire from the ignition and check for power along the wire every so many inches or at the next junction block. I had a similar problem with the brake lights in my sentra that drove me crazy for about a week, no power to the brake light switch, finally figured it out, had a bad wire between the fuse panel ( in the car) and the brake switch, had power coming out of the fuse block but not at the switch, cut the wire, inserted a new piece DONE !! Good as new !!! Let me check the schematic and I'll get back to you in a few.

Really need to re-paint the center caps but can't remember what color paint I used, it was either aluminum or something, LOL Ah, the next owner can paint them if he wants !!

Have a few stubborn spots, tried a small wire brush in my Dremel but didn't work,

Today, Washed the truck, cleaned the windows in and out, vacuumed, armor all on tires, cleaned wheels, figured out why Dr. rear window was not working, ( Plug in master switch was not fully inserted OK now ), Washed my car also.

I'm heading outside now to wash the truck, going to try some purple power, got the toothbrush ready to go ! Have to keep it clean as it is basically sold and I'm not a dirt bag like my step daughter is !!

Sometimes I use purple power a degreaser but doesn't seem to get the brake dust off very well

Well no road salt down here and I don't want them to look like every other lazy person on the road who can't be bothered to clean there wheels, not saying you are lazy I understand the " why clean them if they will get dirty tomorrow in the salt thing", my father has hot and cold water in his garage in his sink and hose, every year after it snowed he would wash his truck in the garage to get that crap off (NY), guess that is why some trucks rust to crap and others don't.

Just wanted to ask if anyone has used any particular product that works really well to clean the lego wheels? I had some wheel cleaner that worked good, along with a tooth brush ! But I don't remember what it was. Thanks

I've never done it on the pathfinder ( or hardbody). but on my sentra I did it from inside running it out to the engine compartment, not sure on the PF cable but the sentra has a big rubber grommet on the cable and you can only put it in one way, I'm sure the pathfinder cable has the same thing on it.

starter relay? There is always power going to the starter solenoid as the large wire runs directly from the battery, so when you go to start it it's not doing anything? I would check for power at the wire going to the starter solenoid (coming from the relay), if no power at the connection at the starter than go back and check it at the relay. Have someone turn the key to "start" and check to see if power is making it to the relay and if it is coming out of the relay. If you have an extra starter relay try swapping it and see what happens. Let us know what you find and we will go on from there, unless you figure it out and if you do let us know, thanks.

Make sure all your connections are good, tight and clean first, at the battery and on the starter. Myself and another member found the wire that runs to the starter from the battery was all frayed where it goes into the ring terminal, 2 people is not a lot but something to check. My truck was doing the same thing, I did the starter relay mod and that fixed it for about a year before the starter finally quit. If it does decide not to start, tapping the starter while someone turns the key to start will usually make it start. Either way you probably are going to need a starter and I would highly recommend an OEM or aftermarket new one, stay away from re-manufactured starters.