ahardb0dy

does it clunk when turning only or going straight? Have you checked the control arm bushings at all? Just remove the tires and using a pry bar or large screwdriver try moving everything on the front suspension, pry against the control arms, swaybar, etc. there shouldn't be any play

I replaced the tension rod bushings in my old hardbody, had plates made and welded on the front of the mount as the holes were no longer round, did not do anything for the cups that were missing, never had a problem not having the cups, I know some have commented about using a plate in the front of the mount would move the whole assembly forward but never noticed any problems when I did it to mine.

Whoops ! Sorry, forgot to mention about removing the oil filter, that helps ! I actually was able to get the starter out one time from the top, but I had to pull the inner fender out slightly to make a little more room.

No idea on replacing the dash pad on the PF but I did it on my sentra and found I had to completely take the dash out as there are screws that hold the dash pad on that go into it from the bottom, no way at all to remove them with out pulling the whole dash, When I did the dash pad on my car it took a while but it wasn't hard, I have pics of it LOL

Well starting this weekend I get to drive my pathfinder again, full time !! My step daughter has been using it to get to her new job, Which she just got fired from yesterday, they tend to not like it when you come late during training, anyway. Since my PF is basically sold the wife wants me to drive it as all I do is go to work and back, her daughter goes to work and who knows where. SO I have to strip my sentra down so she can drive it and I get my PF back ( until it sells anyway), I need to remove my complete stereo, air horns autometer gauges and put the car back to stock as all my goodies will transfer over to the hardbody when I get one. Should be an interesting weekend, so much stuff to remove !! Not looking forward to it !!!

Just a comment in regards to oil filters, I had heard Napa Gold are made by Wix and both are supposed to be good filters, this is only my experience so if either one works for you, than good. I put a Napa Gold oil filter on my 90 sentra one time and noticed in the morning, first start up of the day the engine would tick, you know the taking time for the oil to reach the top of the engine sound. I didn't like that so I removed the Napa Gold filter and put on a Purolator Pure One filter, no more ticking noise. I was running Mobil One oil at the time. I always recommend Pure one or OEM filters, as I said if you have good luck with other brands that's good, this is my opinion and from my experience.

is it a automatic or manual? Manual you could push start it if you ever had too, I did the starter relay mod on mine when the starter first started to act up and it went a year before I had to replace it. If the starter ever starts to just click you can tap it as I said previously while someone turns the key to start it, that usually works, just don't beat the crap out of it, ! LOL this is the one I bought, from rockauto.com : http://prntscr.com/2o4srp

If the starter is original which it could be, I would replace the whole thing, it may look like you can replace the solenoid without pulling the starter but there are parts inside that have to line up or it won't work, so if you have to pull the starter might as well replace it. Long story short on my problems with local rebuilt starters, bought one, worked sometimes, ordered another one was supposed to be new from somewhere else, wasn't new, returned both and bought a brand new one made by Pure energy from rockauto.com ( they also have a 5% off code that can be found on the forum), works perfect. The starter is a pain to remove, some will say they can get it out quick, I pulled mine and re-installed it 3 times, and I can say it's not easy. If the truck has a body lift it is easier. The starter is easy to un-bolt, a long extension and a swivel from the back ( looking towards the front), the two bolts are pretty easy to get too. Disconnect the battery first so when you remove the hot wire on the solenoid (the thick wire) it doesn't hit metal and arc. One plug to remove from under the shield on the starter ( if it has the shield), the rest is maneuvering the starter to actually get it out, last time I removed mine from the front, I dropped the idler arm to give my self more room ( 3 bolts)

The solenoid is not part of the starter, it is attached to the starter and is available separately if one chooses to replace just the solenoid. I speak from experience on buying a rebuilt starter for my 94 PF ( and my old 87 hardbody I used to own), buy a new aftermarket starter or OEM only. As for the difficulty, let's just say you will curse a lot !!

I would try tapping on the side of the starter gently using the end of the jack rod, ( should be under back seats), if the truck starts like normal the bendix ( the part that is pushed out when cranking and engages the flywheel) may have been stuck, if it starts after tapping but the next time it doesn't I would just replace the starter, do your self a favor and try to find a NEW aftermarket starter or get one from Nissan locally or from Rob on the forum, Rob ( post before mine) works at a nissan dealer in Texas and gives members good discounts, Let us know what happens if you do as I suggested

I had Alpine 6 1/2's in mine until one blew now I have one

Here is what the inside of the door panel looks like, this is on my 94, you need to remove the plastic cap from inside the door pull, there will be a screw under it, remove the screw than slide the armrest rearward to remove it, remove the 2 screws from behind the armrest, then pry the trim up from around the inside door handle and remove, un screw the plastic lock button (near the glass) and remove, using a small screwdriver inserted between the front of the power window/lock switch, pry the switch out and than un-plug it and remove it, using a panel removal tool or screwdriver inserted between the door panel and metal of the door, slide it left or right until it hits a clip and than pry out, continue to do this until all the clips have popped out of the door, lift the door panel up to remove, pull the window switch harness out of the door panel from the rear than set it aside. Always check the back of the door panel for any missing clips, if you find one missing check the door to see if it is still in the door, if there are any remove them and re-insert them in the door panel. Should take about a minute to pull the door panel. Pics below: speaker and mounting adapter removed, problem with pathfinder door is rear clearance, if speaker is too deep it will hit the glass, if the speaker you use is deep you can buy/make a spacer to put between the door and the speaker. 6 1.2" speakers will fit even if they say they won't, you just may need to make new screw holes: this is a crap 6 1/2" speaker installed just to show they fit:

all he's saying in regards to removing the coils is to jack up the rear of the truck under the body letting the axle hang, but disconnect the shocks, the sway bar and the brake line where it attaches to the top of the axle first, once the rear is jacked up and supported the axle will hang down low enough to where the coils will almost fall out.

Years ago when Rancho came out with the 3 way adjustable shocks they didn't have an application for the front of our trucks, they said there was not enough room, anyway Gabriel who also was made ( at that time) by the same company that made Rancho had a 3 way adjustable shock that did fit and it also came with urethane bushings (which the rancho did not), I have no idea if Gabriel still makes those shocks, think they were called Silver E or something, but I had them in my hardbody and they were good. If Gabriel still makes a comparable shock I would consider it.

I don't know why rockauto lists the shocks as "except with adjustable shock absorber". either shock installs the exact same way so if you had adjustable shocks and wanted to install regular aftermarket it shouldn't matter what the truck originally came with, right?

The torsion bars control the height and weight of the front of the truck, if they are adjusted to low the ride will be very soft, too high and the ride of course will get rough, you should not be bottoming out the suspension just by changing the shocks. What shocks did you have put in? I also would recommend Bilstein and they would be at the upper end in terms of quality and price Rancho 5000's are a decent shock also and would probably be less expensive compared to the Bilstein's. Rockauto.com has rancho 5000's for about $47/48 (rear/front) 4x4parts slightly more at $48 each (front or rear)

you shouldn't have to touch the oil pan to do the seals, after removing what was said already, you have to remove the timing gears from the cams in order to remove the top cover and to get to the cam seals,

the beer garage one was a 2wd

yes mine is a WD21, mine was banging, originally I pryed up on the top half and jammed some rubber into it until I could replace it.

Isuzu 6 lug wheels will fit as well

My tranny mount was toast when I got the truck, all tore up, tore on one side: new one:

auto parts sells it, I just bought a tube not too long ago, couldn't believe how much it went up in price from the first time, I used it to re attach the glass lense on my sentra headlight, it was like $25 I think.

you did it with the shroud on? Not a lot of room I bet,

what were you trying to do?

my 87 hardbody auto with no OD and 4.62 gears was turning about 4000 at 60MPH it was crazy