ahardb0dy

I plan on filling it again when I need too, than I can figure out the MPG, Today drove 72 miles, only went over 3K when accelerating up to speed and I was taking it easy, Gas gauge went from the full line to right around maybe just below the 3/4 line, gauge may not be working 100% but once I fill it again I will get an idea on the MPG.

could still do that too, didn't think of that, and the ignition is basically the same to re-key just more parts.

I thought there was only the two the PF & HB hood with the 3 vents in front and the Later HB one with no vents and the bulge on top, back on topic, thanks

Sounds like alternator time.

normal, I tend to drive fast in the morning as I am always rushing to make it to work on time, I try to leave the house on time but I have to drive 36 miles to get to work so if I leave 5-10 minutes behind I have to make the time up. 31's with 4.62 gears and the automatic, OD engaged that is where the truck runs doing 80-85, I don't do 80 the whole way, just in spots.

Well per the owners manual it says if the ambient outside temp anticipated before the next oil change is zero and above 10W30 or 10W40 is ok

used to go wheeling all the time in the hardbody back home, been 4 wheeling maybe 3 times since we moved to Florida and that was in the hardbody years ago, I have proof,. LOL

not in the pathfinder, once in awhile I may hit 3K, today tried to keep it under 3K, mostly was around 2500 cruising to work

can you check the output terminal of the alternator to see what voltage you are getting? Sounds like the alternator is shot, all the Nissan alternators are internal regulator. You should have more than 11.2 volts at the battery, that was with everything off right? If the alternator hasn't been putting out the battery could be shot also.

I'm using 10W30 I think

the 89 engine is a throttle body, there is not a bleed screw on the top of the engine like the later VG30E, there should be a bleed screw in the upper radiator hose, that is how it was on my 87 hardbody. You can tighten the end of the coil wire or plug wire, but if you don't know how old they are you should replace them, either use OEM or NGK they are good wires, since you didn't alter anything as far as the timing possibly you have a vacuum line that is either off or cracked from being pushed around? The lines should all be replaced as well as they are old. When my car was tumbling it turned out to be the auto parts spark plug wires, put a set of OEM on it and the stumble disappeared, I know you said it was running good before you did all this work but it could be a coincidence that one of the wires took a crap at the same time. Since the engine has a TB, the MAF sensor is in the side of the TB so nothing you did should have any effect on it.

I never have gone 4 wheeling in my truck and it smells like it runs rich, no codes, it has the JDM engine but it should be the same as a US engine as far as I know. thought maybe the injectors were bigger but no idea.

Well my wife filled the pathfinder a few minutes ago so I'll get to see what kind of MPG I am getting with it next time i fill it ( probably by Friday the way this truck sucks down gas !), The gauge was just below the 1/4 mark when I got home and it took 13.6 gallons, she said she couldn't get any more in. She was questioning the fuel gauge not going all the way to full but after I shook the truck for a few seconds the pointer is right on top of the white full line so I guess it's full. I think I'm going to replace the cap and rotor and plug wires Saturday ( already have the parts, I've never replaced these parts since I had the JDM engine put in so no idea how many miles are on them. Also will pick up a air filter, O2 sensor was replaced already a while back. I want everything good that effects mileage so I can see if there is any difference. Guess I should really wait until I fill it again so I can compare. I'll see, just can't stand that today I drove 32 miles home, RPM's below 3000 mostly around 2500 rpm and the gas gauge went from just under half to just below a quarter !!

Might be easier and def. less time consuming.

14M is a relay ! LOL You did check the two fuse's top row far right end and the one to the left of it?

what 3 hardbody hoods I only know about 2 ? You have probably all seen this grille but this was the main reason I did the headlight swap, so this would fit: I took it back out because the PF is almost sold and the grille stays with me ! ( I've had it 20 something years already !)

I rekeyed my sentra so it matched my parhfinder ignition, previous owner Before my buddy must have replaced the ignition and that was the only key I had, had a locksmith make me a key for the door locks, than I rekeyed all the locks to match the ignition, So one key works in both vehicles.

Welcome

If the ac belt is closest to the Engine than yes you would need to remove the other belts first, your better off just cutting it

my main reason for swapping was just so I could use my grille with the lights built into it , the E - spec hella H4 headlights are just a bonus. This morning was first time I drove my pf in a while and my lights are bright ! Just wanted to give another option for you.

In my pic above if I didn't say it was a pf, you wouldn't know and might think it was a hardbody so how could it look Out of place? I think the 89 hardbody with the pf headlights looks out of place

Don't the 4x4 manual trans trucks have a push button interlock switch in the dash ? Or am I thinking about Totota because I know they have it?

Not sure without looking at the wiring schematic, I'm at Work now no access to the schematic will look when I get home

to convert to hardbody headlights you can do as My1path said, but you will also need to swap the headlight plugs to sealed beam style like the hardbody uses, the pathfinder uses the 9004 style plug, and can not be used with a sealed beam or H4 bulb .

You can have a locksmith do it, no idea what they will charge, or you can do it yourself, it's not that hard but you will need to buy new chrome face caps ( the part you see on the outside of the door the key goes in), for each lock (except the glove box lock). When I re-keyed all my locks I bought the new face caps from a local locksmith and they charged me $5 each just for the cap. I also had to grab extra locks from junkyard trucks, take them apart to get extra wafers that I needed, clean everything, figure out the new order of the wafers to match my ignition key, re-assemble and re-install each lock in each door. It's a lot of work if you want to do all the locks, ( 2 doors, rear door, glovevbox), you may want to call a locksmith to see what they would charge to do the locks, they are fairly easy to remove to bring them in to the locksmith. Or price the full set from the dealer as Inyourface did above. If you want to re-key them your self see the link below, it's where I learned how to do it, with a few difference's, I use a tiny channel lock pliers to remove the chrome face cap, don't bother trying to save them, it's almost impossible to re-install it with out a crimping tool, the caps I bought from the locksmith are a universal ( for each Nissan lock), that instead of crimping the cap all the way around the lock body, the universal one's only have 4 tabs you have to bend over, much easier and almost hard to tell from the outside of the door that they are not original. Link: http://beergarage.com/PathRekey.aspx this is what the replacement face caps look like, you can see two of the four tabs, these come in different sizes, I always take a lock to my local locksmith and they give me the right part, you can also see the online place won't sell them to anyone, http://www.michaelhyde.com/Nissan-Trunk-30mm-118-inch-diameter-ASP-Lock-Face-Cap-P16215-P-16-215-10-pack_p_2986.html