ahardb0dy

his truck is a original 5 speed, 2wd, I ran the Vin number for him.

Could be the switch on the column. Not likely that each bulb failed one on low one on high. Can you check the low and high that do not work using a test light to see if there is power going to the bulb?

well if you find a low mileage VG33 or possible a JDM engine you should be good

The freeze plugs should be SS, at least the OEM replacement one's are. I had to replace the metal pipe that runs from the thermostat down to the lower hose way back, I used a junk yard pipe was better than the one I had.

what makes you think it needs a water pump?

No the rear fender doesn't just "pop off' it's part of the whole body, your not referring to the flare are you?

There is no timing chain the engine uses a belt, and no, no oil will come out when you remove the cover. How many miles are on the truck? Has the timing belt ever been replaced? They should be replaced around 100K miles, If your doing the water pump good time to do the belt and thermostat also. Is it a 2 or 4 wheel drive pathfinder? You may want to download the factory service manual from the garage section, it's free and very valuable to have.

with the suspension lift you don't touch the radiator only if you did the body lift.. I never did anything with brake hoses when I had my lifted hardbody I think on the pathfinder you don't have to either, I would think if you disconnected/removed the rear sway bar than you would probably need longer brake lines (and shocks to get the full susp. travel)

The whole fender?

Most people would say to stick with OEM or NGK, I have NGK on my Nissan Sentra and they are good, same size as stock, numbered, and have the wire loom on where it's supposed to be, you can get the plugs or wires from rockauto.com and there is a code in this thread for 5% off, once you order from them they will start e-mailing you a new code, anyone can use it. If you happen to want OEM parts, contact Rob, he works at a Nissan Dealer out of Texas and can get you OEM parts at discounted prices, just ask him in this thread and he will get back to you: Rob - http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-45?do=findComment&comment=704603

yeah but if the timing belt ever breaks it would be nice to know the pistons aren't going to slam into the valves,

missing that too but I think he meant from a junkyard

Did you get a chance to check for the plug/wires for the switch near the firewall that you said your truck doesn't have?

VG33 also came in the xterra's, and Infiniti QX4

See here http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/ 17th row of pictures down from the top, yes you have to remove the retainer to replace the seal

Finally had a chance to go out and look under the hood of my PF, of course under the hood is opposite as yours as this is LHD and a gas engine but I found a tube that looks like yours end it also just ends as yours does, this one comes up from underneath and I can see where another tube "tee's" into it, I guess from the front diff and rear diff, it ends just below and behind the cruise control actuator, pic below, pipe marked in yellow line:

Cheaper than $100 ! Oh, you were talking about his price, whoops !

the rough country kit is a decent price even having to get the coils from some where else, sell the shackles or trash them as you did but the a-arms with shocks for $339, can't match that price, 4x4 parts, control arms and 4 rancho 5000 shocks would be $397

my local junkyard is showing the engine harness for $28

that's the one but you can only use the front parts, as the rear in that kit is for leaf springs as was said. Rough Country won't sell the control arms separately unless you BS them saying something about your truck got in an accident and you need just the arms try here for a package: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-19871995-pathfinder-c-435_437_341_7.html or here for the control arms separate: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-upper-control-arms-p-142.html or Calmini: http://calmini.com/model.php?m=3&b=1&t=2

what bare wire? Should be 3 wires in the MAF sensor harness/plug, white, black and black/white, not 100% sure which goes to ground, the ground wire supposedly grounds through the ECU, the repair harness that you can see in the thread here shows the harness, it uses an additional wire that goes to ground, see this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36667-bad-maf-harness-ground-nissan-official-fix/

you may want to put matching tires on the rear due to the LSD, maybe move the goodyear to the front

pm me the Vin number and I can tell you

Stick with NGK, that's what they come with, NGK V power on rockauto for $4.31 each

the pic I posted is the brake pedal but if you do not see the rubber bumper on your clutch pedal, and their is no switch than perhaps someone bypassed the switch, can you see a blue plug hanging with a jumper wire in it nearby?