ahardb0dy

what number?

I have the 93 FSM, what pages do you need?

And the fact that the Subaru uses Nissan key blanks influenced you too right?

Based on the LeCar I would take the rally version the R5 turbo ! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renault_5_Turbo#Renault_5_Turbo_2

I can't blame an impact wrench for damaging lugs, when I installed tires at the 4x4 shop that is how we always did tires and wheels never had a problem. Of course you can't have the gun set to the highest setting and tighten the crap out of them.

My hardbody has some crap splined lug nuts on it but they aren't staying. would like to find some stock or aftermarket black ones, chrome may look good inside the black titan wheels too though.

one bolt into the frame where? The bumper brackets have 2 bolts into the frame each side

the lower bracket supports the majority of the bumper, I think the top brackets are just there to locate the bumper and prevent it from pulling forward. I beleive the thread I linked to shows 2 bolts into the stock brackets. I f you make your own upper brackets you could put as many bolts in as you like. I would get a stock older style bracket, lay it out on a piece of steel and just drill the holes where it mounts to the frame, trim it as is necessary to fit than mount it to your new bumper.

Your going to have to do what was said and either switch to the older style bumper brackets or have something made custom that matches the bumper bracket, you don't need the right angle part just the part that mounts to the frame and to the side of those 3" tabs sticking out, could probably make or have made something a little heavier such as 1/4" thick steel.

found a kit that is supposed to be the NVR140S (AC compressor most Nissan's use) seals: http://www.ackits.com/compressor-shaft-seal-kit-nvr140s-5408

It's not mine, I see what your saying now, your truck is a 95, my 93 hardbody has the same bracket, the other thread with the winch bumper, his truck is an 87 with the smaller brackets.

Per the pics in the link, the stock brackets are bolted to the flat one's that stick out behind the bumper, no idea if the other bumper owner had to drill holes or not. The stock brackets do not look modified. The main bracket bolts to the tow hook holes and the bottom of the bumper, you did get that bracket with yours right?

See this thread, post number 24 and on: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37073-how-to-build-a-winch-bumper/page-2

Not too bad, with cruise the switch is about $50 , without cruise about $50 , prices from an online dealer I use to check prices, Rob's prices may be more or less.

That's probably the best thing, you could clean the switch adjust the little fingers, but after a while it will do it again

It's a shame that now a days you can not order a new car the way you want like in the old days. The thing that makes the old muscle cars especially valuable is how some had all the options where others may have options deleted, there fore making the car one of a few made that particular way. I remember going with my parents to order their new 78 thunderbird and how my dad picked out the options he wanted than you would wait like 6-8 weeks for the car to be built and delivered to the dealer. Now you get what the dealer has or can find from another dealer and you get a vehicle that is the same as 30K ( or a lot more) others. Not very valuable when 30K cars are made the same. Today's limited number production vehicles will be tomorrows collectibles

Just a heads up on the sunroof, if the glass doesn't seem to close tightly, you can unlatch it in the rear, remove the one screw holding the plastic trim cover on and than using a 10mm socket ( I think ) you can adjust the latch further back, the holes in the latch are oblonged ( is that a word? ), and moving the latch further back will make the sunroof glass close tighter. Do not move it too far back as the plastic sunroof handle can break ( I broke it way back in my old 87 Hardbody) !

most likely the switch, the little fingers get bent over time from turning on and off plus add in heat on the copper material and I'm sure the fingers can be "reshaped" most likely the cam that actually moves the fingers to make contact with the pads inside the switch is getting worn and that is why the one headlight has a delay, it's weird that Nissan designed the headlight contacts inside the switch to have seprate left and right when they could have used one contact and than split the left and right headlight wires after the switch. I mean the headlights always come on in the L&R pair no real need to have a left and right contact.

WRX STI

Back on Adam's topic, So if someone else did this already what's the problem??? LOL JUST DO IT !!!

I bought the lines and AN fittings for when I was going to use the relocation kit on the former pathfinder, I Bought the push on fittings and hose from Summit,

I like that first fitting pretty cool idea !

is this the V6 engine?

I would replace all the vacuum lines, do one at a time, on vehicles this old, it's just better to replace them, a line that appears OK could be cracked or split on the bottom where you can't see it, the lines are cheap enough and most are the same size. I can scan the vacuum diagram after work later, I have the FSM for the 87. THeir should be a sticker under the hood also.

If the amp for the sub is being fed from rear out and not a sub out than you are sending a full range signal to the sub, sub outs will usually only output a certain frequency range ( the head unit will have a built in crossover for the sub output), does the amp have a cross over built into it? In your brothers truck does his head unit have sub out? Most amps now a days have a cross over built in, if yours does you can run it off the rear out's and cross over the sub using the amp. Does the system sound better with the new speakers alone, not including the sub?