ahardb0dy

33/12.50's are fine on 8's, 7's are too narrow. Yes they fit but it pulls the sidewalls in too far

used to last me about a week if it didn't rain, On surfaces that are smooth (like the black mirrors) plastic polish works real good, makes it look like Armorall but no greasy residue and lasts longer. Not good on non smooth surfaces, it still works, but is harder to get all the polish out of the little pits ( I did the top of my bed liner once and had to use a toothbrush to get all the polish off, it looked real god though !)

Couple coats of Armor all and they look like this:

Don't see any welds, that's why I commented, welding the nuts to the bracket would work.

Should have used either lock washers or Nylock nuts on the inside to prevent the nuts from loosening, good job otherwise.

The Mobil one grease is fine, it's what I used when I repacked the bearing on my hardbody, As to tightening the wheel bearing nut, I follow what the FSM says except for measuring the runout and checking the force with the scale, never had any problems, also if you don't have the tool for the nut you can use a Phillips screwdriver in one of the holes, or use 2 with another screw driver between the two for leverage:

here you go: http://infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12191

I meant instead of the receiver sticking out from the face of the bumper.

you could but it would probably be cheaper to buy a new one

shouldn't need special studs or lugs, stainless or anything else, people take their lugs off everyday and don't have the problems you are having, don't know why you are having the problems you are. I never use anything on my studs, I don't torque them with a torque wrench, I thread them on by hand than tighten in the star pattern than go around one more time to make sure they are tight, never had to beat the tire with a rubber mallet and never had any problems removing them. Never had a wheel come loose either. Had a stud break one time when Discount tire was doing something on my former dakota, they broke it removing it.

weird, I've had lugs start to come off than all of a sudden stop or start to turn hard, than when removed they were stripped to hell, this was when I installed tires way back. Never had a problem with my own, never use torque wrench when tightening them. If I do use the torque wrench I always go a little more than the minimum, seems like when ever Discount tire puts them on when I go to remove them for what ever reason, to me they seem too loose, even though they are torqued to spec. I don't kill them when I put them on though. I guess you could use some antiseize on the studs, just read where people have been doing it for years with no problems Only way I could see them getting rusted on is if you had water getting inside some how

Shouldn't have to use anything on the studs, normally the only way the lug would not unscrew is if the thread was messed up or the lug was cross threaded. Since your studs and lugs were both new that shouldn't be a problem.

you are using the right thread lug nuts right? 12 mm x 1.25 ? by the way the lug nut torque is 87 - 108

why not make the hole for the hitch flush with the surface, since you are making the bumper anyway.

plug wires "looking good, almost new" means crap, they are new or you don't know how old they are, Check codes, replace the fuel filter if you don't know when it was done last, the truck is 20 years old, replace ALL the vacuum lines, they don't last forever, they may look good but it's the one small slit or crack you can't see that messes it up, just replace one at a time, you did the plugs? hopefully you used regular NGK plugs, I would suggest OEM or NGK wires. O2 sensor, clean the throttle body, make sure the edge of the TB where the butterfly makes contact is clean, run some fuel injector cleaner in the gas.

My neighbor has his 2001 xterra 4x4 ( think it's a 2001 anyway), he asked me the other day about a noise he hears when driving, a metal ticking noise, I asked if it gets faster as he drives and he said it does but it goes away when he brakes, I told him to check for a bolt or other debris in the tire, He also asked about how much play there is supposed to be side to side in the front CV axles? I know there is a "C" clip that holds the axle in when you remove the hub, the truck has Mile Marker manual hubs on it, is there supposed to be any play in the axle side to side when the hubs are unlocked? If the clip is gone I guess there could be some play but the axle can only move so much right? He also said one side of the front brake pads were worn down to nothing but the other side was good, I told him the caliper could be frozen on the good pad side and because it is froze ( slide pins) that the pad would not wear as the other caliper is doing all the work, he said it does pull to that side also, am I correct in what I told him? Thanks

69 Chevy Stepside , straight six, 3 on the tree

tire size specs: 265/70/15 (BF Goodrich Rugged Trail) 29.7 OD 10.7 section width 8.2 tread width on a 8" wide wheel 265/75/15 (BF Goodrich Long Trail) 30.7 OD 10.5 section width 8.1 tread width on a 7.5" wide wheel 31/10.50/15 (BF Goodrich Rugged Trail) 30.5 OD 10.6 section width 8.1 tread width on a 8.5" wide wheel Of course wheel width changes the section width From tire rack's site : "The industry rule of thumb is that for every 1/2" change in rim width, the tire's section width will correspondingly change by approximately 2/10"."

love riv nuts !

Bought this turntable from a guy at work: JVC, Sansui Receiver, 60 watts x 2, haven';t had it over 4 it's LOUD !!: Pioneer "Book shelf" Yeah OK !!! Speakers, HPM100 bought them from another guy a t work, tweeters were shot, installed a set of Dayton soft dome's, into a wooden adapter so I wouldn't have to make new holes in the cabinets:

yeah, that's a look all right !

I saw this today on my way back to the yard, pvc roll bar, painted black

194 I think

What part of Florida you from?

Won't let me edit my post so, here is the back of the cluster in my 93 Hardbody ( with tach):