ahardb0dy

make sure none of the solder connections are touching each other.

Merry Christmas all !!

Wiring guide for relays: When I did the H4 headlights (hardbody swap) on my former pathfinder I used the high and low beam wires going to the pass. side headlight plug to trigger each relay, than the output from each relay ( one for low beam one for high beam), I ran a wire from each relay to the drivers side headlight plug (furthest away from the relay), than I tapped into the same wire near the pass. side headlight and ran a wire to the pass. side headlight. One for the high beam one for the low. The drivers side headlight plug (stock) I just unpluged and left alone unused. I used 10 gauge for all the wiring, except what was stock going to the pass. side headlight plug.

check for codes on the ECU

on my current hardbody:

you could eliminate the stock terminal and the red connector if you wanted too, you would have to cut the ends off where they plug into the red part and install them either into a large butt connector or put a ring terminal on each wire than connect to the new terminal. This is how I did it in my former sentra and my current hardbody: I cut the plugs off of the fusible links on one end, than stripped the wires and put them all in a large butt connector, the other end of the butt connector I put in a short length of 6 gauge car audio power wire with a ring terminal on the other end, than I installed the new ring terminal onto the new battery terminal, only down side doing it this way is if one of the fusible links takes a crap, I would have to cut out the butt connector and re-do it. here is how the new terminal looks on the battery, the large cable is the one that goes to the starter, the other cable is for plug in jumper cables, I later replaced the negative terminal too:

alignment can straighten the steering wheel

you can either replace the battery terminal with a new stock one, or install an aftermarket terminal, but than you will have to connect the fusible links to the new terminal some way.

years ago when I installed the Trailmaster body lift kit in my former 87, the kit came with a longer shaft, It was a pain for you, but you got it !

could be the hood switch is going bad causing the alarm to go off

I reversed the middle mount when I installed the rack on my former 94, that way it wouldn't hang over the edge of the body, bottom pic was during test fit, was sitting on the roof and was before re-painting the rack:

no middle mount?

At the junkyard i use two 12" long extensions with a swivel that way it puts the ratchet outside the fender, makes it real easy to get the bolts out. (At home I use a 24" extension, won't fit in my junkyard tool bag ! LOL)

2 on each side, accessible from under the fender, one is recessed within a bracket, the bolts on each side are the same size. The lower shroud should come off separately from the bumper. This may help you see where the bolts would be:

in black:

is the 4 pin plug installed on the harness so it would be under the hood? Or in the cab? If under the hood may be to plug a relay in possibly, hard to say without seeing it.

it happens,

Thanks ! I was the oldest one who had a birthday Monday ! I'm old LOL !

make sure the fuel lines at the pump are not on backwards, it's possible the new pump is just bad. you checked for fuel at the pump so it wouldn't be a filter issue. The fuel pump will run when the key is first turned to on to prime

Today, figured out the wiring for the power mirror swap I will be doing, hooked the mirrors and switch up to my power supply and tested everything, all good to go, just need to pick up some 3 conductor wire.

the green actually changed in 93, from Nissan FAST: paint code FL1 - Green from July 92 to July 93 paint code FL1 - Greenish blue from July 93 also had paint code DJ2 - Dark green Your fender looks good !

This link is for the pathfinder idler arm, rockauto shows a different part number between the 2 and 4 wd for the hardbody, but only shows this one for the pathfinder, both the 2 and 4 wheel drive one's look the same http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=493175&cc=1211993

I like Moog but if you can't use it, and I know why, my next choice is Beck Arnley

You can mount any size tire on any size rim that you can get the tire to go onto, doesn't mean it's the recommended size wheel, when I said you 7's are too narrow, I'm referring to the 7" width as not being a recommended width for a 12.50' wide tire. Most tire manufacturers that sell a 33/12.50/15 tire specify 8-11" wheels. Most of the time and depending on the tire's particular tread design, putting a tire that is too wide for a particular wheel will pull the sidewall's in to much and will effect how the tire wears. I'm sure when a tire manufacturer recommends a wheel width range for their tires it is to make sure the tire performs optimally.

if there is a code the ECU will store it, so any that may have came up recently will be stored.