ahardb0dy

Back on Adam's topic, So if someone else did this already what's the problem??? LOL JUST DO IT !!!

I bought the lines and AN fittings for when I was going to use the relocation kit on the former pathfinder, I Bought the push on fittings and hose from Summit,

I like that first fitting pretty cool idea !

is this the V6 engine?

I would replace all the vacuum lines, do one at a time, on vehicles this old, it's just better to replace them, a line that appears OK could be cracked or split on the bottom where you can't see it, the lines are cheap enough and most are the same size. I can scan the vacuum diagram after work later, I have the FSM for the 87. THeir should be a sticker under the hood also.

If the amp for the sub is being fed from rear out and not a sub out than you are sending a full range signal to the sub, sub outs will usually only output a certain frequency range ( the head unit will have a built in crossover for the sub output), does the amp have a cross over built into it? In your brothers truck does his head unit have sub out? Most amps now a days have a cross over built in, if yours does you can run it off the rear out's and cross over the sub using the amp. Does the system sound better with the new speakers alone, not including the sub?

If all he changed was the cable it shouldn't change his speed on the gauge.

they are cheap enough, replace it. Better safe than sorry

Stock Leather covered one from an "LE" pathfinder

You can only get the cables from a dealer or used. I just bought one for my 2wd hardbody. The length should not effect the reading.

drill a hole in the clutch master cylinder delete plate and use a rubber grommet, much better appearance and no worry about the wires rubbing against metal, Was going to say if the truck has no AC there would be a similiar plate on the pass. side.

right now need to crimp some terminals to the battery cables, too lazy to remove them from the truck to use my hammer style crimper. Sometimes when I make a new cable I just use my vise to crimp them but that just makes a flat crimp, I like how the die's crimp, and if you rotate the terminal 180 degrees you can crimp the terminal again to get a 4 sided crimp.

Just bought one of these from E-bay, I know it's from China but hopefully it will last a while under normal, once in a while use: It's supposed to be a 10 ton crimper for crimping ring terminals ( and similiar) onto battery or power cable, comes with 9 sets of dies of different sizes, I have the crimping tool you hit with the hammer but when you need to fasten a ring terminal to a wire on the vehicle the hammer tool will not work. Will see in about a week or so how it works.

PM me your vin number and I can decode it to positively tell you what options your truck originally came with

the top of the plugs being clean means nothing, pull the plugs and look at them. You may need someone to turn the key to "on" while you lay under the truck to hear the fuel pump. To get to the fuel pump there is a access panel in the rear cargo area under the carpet.

Yeah my step daughter and her BF aren't very maint. minded. I changed the oil around 258K and he just changed it like a week ago ( 2 weeks maybe) and I think the car has around 276K on it now. I'll have to part it out if she doesn't want to fix it, I already know someone that wants the rare (now a days) short throw shifter, wonder if the seats would work in my hardbody??

I've been reading about timing chains jumping a tooth and came across a post on another forum where the guy says it's a myth that even if the tensioner was remoed the chain is so tight that it couldn't jump a tooth? I'm sure if a tooth was worn down it would be possible but I don't know. Could it be a head gasket with no coolant in the oil?

Just checked the compression, don't think it looks good, Readings: cylinder 1 - 59 2 - 59 3 - 94 4 - 131 added small amount of oil to 1,2 & 3 and re-tested 1 - 119 2 - 100 3 - 121 4 - did not retest Service manual shows compression specs of: standard - 181 minimum - 142 no more than 14 difference between cylinders So time to look for a engine possibly? Thanks

No picture but at the junkyard came across a 4 Door Mercedes sitting on a 4x4 chassis , sitting on like new super Swampers, looked to be around 36's ! Car was painted camo too !

thought so, was just making sure, didn't help the car, still won't start. Thanks

Need some assistance please, The firing order for this engine is 1-3-4-2, the rotor rotates counter clockwise I know what terminal is number 1 on the distributor cap, so after putting the number one plug wire on that terminal shouldn't the rest of the wires go counter clockwise in the firing order? Number 1 cylinder is far left looking from the front,

No, don't want to take it apart yet, just wanted to see if what I am seeing may indicate it is bad, I'll have my guy replace it if it's bad, I paid him to put it in and he bought it so he can do it.

This is in my 93 hardbody with the KA24E engine: I think the new thermostat my mech. buddy put in is not working, this is what it is doing, let me know what you think. Temp gauge sits just below center after coming to temp and driving . Heat is not the greatest, tried bleeding air out of the air relief screw a few times, no change. The plastic top of the radiator gets HOT ! I mean if you accidentally touch it, IT'S HOT ! upper hose gets real hot, lower hose does not. Water in radiator is only warm No matter how long the engine is running I can take the radiator cap off and there is no pressure, put a new cap on yesterday after work, let the truck idle for about 20 minutes and still no pressure when taking the cap off. Water is being pushed out the overflow hose ( this was with the old radiator cap, did not see any water come out with the new cap) yet ! What do you think? water pump was also replaced. Thanks

They say (locksmith forum) that WD40 is good to clean out the lock cylinder than lube it with a pure silicone spray, most locksmiths do not recommend the graphite stuff .

Haven't verified the timing, have to either buy a comp. tester or rent one. When I try to start it if I floor the gas it changes the sound. I found a hose that blew out under the intake manifold, I'm sure that's where the water went. Haven't had any problems with the radiator. One day when I still owned it I was driving home on the turnpike, when I finally came to a light the engine was ticking like crazy, couldn't hear it over the road noise. Stopped at Publix to pick up a few things and bought 2 quarts of oil, I checked the oil before I went in, didn't even need to look at the dip stick it was so hot I knew it was low. Came out of the store and put both quarts of oil in and than the next day another 1/4 of a quart, so it was low,, took about 15 minutes for the ticking to stop but it did and ran fine. Engine holds 3 5/8 oil so it was down 2.25 quarts !! I don't know what noise the engine was making that she heard, I do know I had a problem when I let off the gas in 5th gear it would backfire, but I found the coil wire at the coil was loose, fixed that and than no more back firing.